Where to place 4 jack stands?
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When setting the car on 4 jack stands, where is the best points to place the jack stands? As I understand it, the pinch weld is not the idea spot, and I plan on installing ZL1addon lifting blocks. Sledgehammer70 says not to use jack stands on ZL1-Addons lift points. I know there have been numerous threads on this, but there does not seem to be a consensus? So what is the latest? |
I have lift blocks and use them on my standard jack stands without concern, even when applying 148 ft*lbs via torque wrench to the front caliper bolts. The only downside is that your lift blocks will get marked up.
Even if I didn't use the lift blocks with jackstands I highly recommend installing lift pads to make it less likely that a tire/service shop lifts the car incorrectly (very common) and bends your front quarter panels. I agree that painted metal (jackstand) on anodized metal (lift block) is not a great interface but I felt that adding rubber pads to the tops of my jack stands actually made it more unstable. Just make sure to carefully center the lift pad on the jack stand. The perfect solution is the ESCO jack stands with the lift blocks, I'll pick up those jack stands at some point in the future. |
I am not understanding what you are trying to say.
The ZL1 Addons Lift Pads are for your lift or jack stands, while the ZL1 Addons Mag Pads are what you use with floor jacks. The Mag Pad is not supposed to be used for the jack stands, but the Lift Pads are. I just follow this video on how to jack up the car. Pretty comprehensive video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX_Qf9wSwos |
Try the ZL1 Add-on MAG pad w/puck. Goes in the center and Jacks both front and rear tire at the same time.
Then like the video already posted, if you still want some jack points on the 4 corners for shops and stuff get the jack pads. I would not jack on the pinch welds without either Jack Pads or the Mag Puck. |
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I actually have all of those products from ZL1-Addons. I intend to place the jack pads on the far forward pinch welds and on the aft pinch welds. Then use the second forward pinch weld to lift with the Mag pad. MLee, do you agree with the placement of the jack pads in the video. He says he's done it hundreds of times. I am just looking for some consensus. Generally if something works everyone does it.:thumbup: |
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I haven't perfected the art yet, as I've only lifted the car a couple of times so far. I'm actually looking to get a new jack this week, so I'll find some excuse to use that haha.
I have to lift pads installed on my car, 4 standard (u-shaped groove) jack stands, low pro jack, and pinch weld adaptors for the jack stands (hefty rubber blocks that basically slip onto the jack stand). To answer OP's question - I've always (thus far anyway) used the pinch welds for the jack stand placement. I personally don't think that I would use the lift pads because I feel they're not as stable while raising/lowering the car. You don't have the "track" of the pinch weld that keeps the stand in place, even if it is ever so slightly. |
Honestly, the only good way is buying the lifting pads from Amazon (same as the ZL1 add-on ones for cheaper) and installing in all six positions. So you will need two of the 4-packs.
Once installed, lift with a jack (with a hockey puck or pad) using the 2nd position from the front. Then place jack stands under the very front and rear position jack pads. Then repeat on the opposite side. I also have jack stand rubber pads that give more 'grip' on the lifting pads as extra insurance they don't slide on the metal-to-metal contact. Jack stand cradle to be perpendicular to the jack pad. This is the only way I got it to work well. I don't like the magnetic lift pad adapters, I had one tilt/slide out when lifting and gave me a heart attack. Thankfully, no damage. Once I had all the lift pads installed, lifting has been non-issue and far more stable/safe. |
subscribed as i will probably be doing this for when i install my exhaust myself
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I want to know why ZL1 Addons now specifically says not to use the pads with jack stands. I don't remember that explicit warning until pretty recently. My guess is someone did it wrong and the car slid off. The way my jack stands fit "in" the pads feels as steady as it can be. I also know that the car was designed to have the weight in this area. With that being said, the fact that ZL1 Addons now says this gives me great concern about doing it again. |
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The Mag Pad positioned in the center is all I ever need for changing tires back and forth. I sort of wanted to try the jack pads to try and make changing camber on the ZLE a bit easier with both fronts off the ground so the sway bar connecting the two sides will move around easier. Quote:
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Just to jump in here being an employee of ZL1 Addons and also being the one who made the linked video.
You should avoid putting jack stands on a pinch weld period unless you have a pinch weld designed stand. Jack stands are not designed for that sort of placement. The main body of the unibody is a perfect solid point to put stands as outlined in the video. I know of 5 performance shops that only use those points. You just want to make sure you have it under an area that offers enough space on both sides so the car sits nice and flat and even if it did slip, it's going nowhere. I have pulled the motor and had my car hovering on these spots for years based on the suggestion of the shops I have talked to. All of them avoid the pinch welds. The ZL1 products are designed to work with Lifts and floor jacks. Never use them with a jack stand. Your car with the ZL1 Addons products on a Jack stand is very dangerous and can easily slide off the stands. |
I agree that they shouldn’t be used with standard jack stands, however I have no concerns personally using the ESCO style stands mentioned above with the lift pads. No different then mounting pads on a lift.
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I agree on the unibody points as being the best secure jack stand locations. However, for me, the potential of being crushed, scares the hell out of me. I won’t place my body under a car with just one form of support that has three failure points (IE pinch weld - to puck - to hydraulic jack). That’s right, I freely admit, I’m a chicken. I’d more than likely utilize the Esco type design as a secondary back up at another pinch weld, prior to sliding another jack stand and my body under the car.
Only reason I say this is I’ve seen some bad things happen to safety conscience people... more is always better when it comes to safety. For me, it took being electrocuted, a close call on a moss covered roof, a ladder failure, hoisting pick point failure and personally witnessing deaths / maiming of others to realize unexpected / stupid shit happens. |
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I personally have a quick jack which I believe is great, but before pulling the trigger on it. I looked into this jackstand that has the pinch weld adapter and you use a jack to set it up. Has anyone used them before?
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I see this thread has been revived.
I have since changed my oil. I followed Lethal Garages video. Even going to Harbor Freight and getting two 3 ton floor jacks. I had forgotten that my aluminum floor jack was only 2 ton. I guess with old age I am not as adventurous about lifting and getting under the car. I lifted the Camaro on one side and was sliding my jack stand under the frame. But looking at the underside of the chassis I didn't feel comfortable with placing the jack stand there. I think it could cause some minor damage on other things under the chassis. This is just me. I have no doubt that this point will support the car on jack stands. While this is not recommended. I have the ZL1 addon lift pads on installed. With rubber boots on the typical jack stands and placed them under the jack pads. With the jack stand and floor jack supporting one side of the car, I lifted the other side of the car and placed a jack stand on the forward jack pad (with a rubber boot on the jack stand). My intent was the lift the rear of the car, and place it on all four jack stands. However, with the suitcase muffler, accessing the rear cross member was difficult. Trying to place jack stands on the rear by lifting from the sides of the chassis proved to be a bad idea. So with just the front end on jack stands, I changed the oil. I'll change the differential fluid when I can get the car on a lift. There may be a Quickjack in my future. Funny thing. I sold the White 1SS 1LE to Carmax a week later and bought a Shadow Grey Metallic ZL1 A10. |
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Some people are pretty clever. I saw this at the track the other day, it seemed quite slick.
http://www.jackpointjackstands.com The top portion goes on your floor jack pad, slide under your pinch point, jack the car up and slide the base around the jack, lower jack and repeat to lift the car. The guy using it, did one side at a time on a BMW. A bit pricey, but what is the price for peace of mind? No, I don't have any. I use quick jack and ZL1 addons bolt on pads |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0flclqcxl0 |
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I have a home shop four post lift, but I can see those as being very useful. Hope china doesn't copy the idea and diminish the guy's work.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083TC1P74...v_ov_lig_dp_it |
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I was referring to the other American product starting at post #24+... http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/ |
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Not to resurrect an old thread but I feel like this is a big area that Chevy overlooked with these cars. I hate the pinch weld jacking points and feel like they should’ve created a more stable jacking point.
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