Can I get another 50hp for under $2000?
 

2017 ZL1 A10 with ported tb, LT's with high flow cats, 9.17 lower pulley, e85 sensor, roto fab and tune. Currently about 645/685.

Wondering how to add another 50+hp for less then $2k without doing any fueling mods other then possibly a low side boost a pump and having this thing continue to run cool enough for road racing?

With the lower pulley increasing boost you may already see increased temps on road course. You might need to look at cooling upgrades. JMHO

With a pulley and the big power increase you already have, your car has already lost a lot of cooling capability on a circuit. On a warm day, maybe any day, it will overheat. Have you tested it yet?

If you add anything else, it will get hotter.

You could look into this: https://jannettyracing.com/collectio...019-camaro-zl1

It uses no pulley, stays cool on track and boosts power to 800+ BHP. You don’t need more than that on track except DSSVs, wide R comps and ZLE aero to beat anything but a 720s or similar, if you become a great driver.

Meth

ported blower and 103tb?

700-750 seems to be the fueling limit. If any of your mods include the pullies you'll already be generating too much heat without cooling mods (more so since you live in Arizona). I'd say get your supercharger ported, and get a 103 throttle body, maybe remove the cats if you can. That on a cool day should net you another 50 for about $2k ($1200 for porting + $600 for tb).

x3 for the ported SC and 103TB. This will free up air flow and reduce restriction. It will decrease your PSI and reduce IATs a bit. Might reach your goal there but you will be completely maxed out of fuel at that point.

All of this sets you up nicely for a cam in the future.

agreed

I wish I could explain how with close to the same mods as you (rotofab/LTs (catless)/9.17 lower) I am making 717wtq. Seems so weird.

as i learned recently with my build, take a look at your dyno sheet and see if your numbers are using SAE or STD. Example, mine was given to me as uncorrected, but if i apply STD correction as an example my number goes up appx 40rwhp.

True but many dyno operators will use STD on these Gen5 LT A8/A10 cars because they do not dyno them in the 1:1 gear which makes the numbers read 25-35whp low. So using STD correction in Non 1:1 5th(A8)/6th(A10) will yield similar numbers to using SAE in 1:1. Even then no 2 dynos read the same even if all variables are the same. Especially dynos in high elevation.

Its not a numbers issue really, its the increase of torque. Same dyno with a rotofab is was 565whp/545wtq. With the mods and a tune 630whp/717wtq. Same gear and all of that (I believe it was 4th in my M6).
The torque gain just seems so much higher than others that I have seen. It honestly has me considering trying another tuner just to make sure its all good and not leaning out too much on initial acceleration.

https://i.imgur.com/VTYmm9t.jpg

Could be how the timing map is set up by the tuner. Some pull a lot of timing in the low-midrange part of the timing map to soften the torque. Others run a lot of timing in that area which will make a lot more torque on the hit.

I went back and checked the dyno sheet from Cordes after they installed a cc.

642hp/698tq SAE on a 108 degree day using e40.

I've been to one 1/2 mile track day with this car and 1 day road course though I've been roadcoursing for 20 years. On the wildhorse east track in Phx a few weeks ago that started out at 68 degrees the first session but by the 3rd session was 93 degrees.
Watching the cars temp readout for trans (max 223 degrees) and the aeroforce gauge for coolant and oil temp (max 238/246 degrees) I was pleasently surprised to see no overheating. Perhaps running e42 helped?

The east track is relatively small with a short straightaway (120mph max) and technical with lots of turns.

I've leaned toward porting the blower and then going the bigger tb and big gulp, but Cordes thinks I'll be running out of fuel with that arrangement, even with a low side boost a pump. Seems I'd be pushing that 700wrhp mark then and I thought the low side boost a pump would take care of that, but I admit Cordes has a whole lot more expereince with these then I do. He suggested a cam for power and fueling, I'm just not sure I want to go into the engine and then I'd reason, hey while you're there...port the heads as well. Next thing I know I'd be into it $6k vs below $2k. Yikes!

When I talked with Cordes I was told the same thing *possibly running out of fuel with a ported blower* but I will probably do it anyway and see where we end up at.

Sounds like your set up is happy where it is. Anything else you do may upset that balance. Maybe run it that way till you are ready to go big with cam and/or bigger blower.

I'm curious if just adding the low side boost a pump and then running maybe up to e50 will be the most bang for the buck?

+1


A ported blower and a 103 is a solid 50+rwhp. We see this from our stage 1 to our stage 2 package.

We haven't seen a fbo car have fueling issues unless they try to run to much E.

Thats kinda what I was told by cordes. If I run straight 91 (what we got here in az) and mods r very similar to OPs, I would be "ok but close" when it comes to fuel. I can add flex fuel if I want but they would have to obviously retune and see where I can safely be with E. Anything more and I HAVE to do a cam. Fm

Spoke with Joe at Cordes today about just using the low side boost a pump and then running up to e50. He hedged a little bit but then said that it might work.

They are booked out till mid January so maybe I'll have to research which pump to use and diy install. He said it was like an hour install so shouldn't take me more then a day or two...