[Yenkocrew]

The Car is a stock 2016 2SS with MRC using the 5th Gen 1LE/ZL1 20x10 & 20x11 wheels wrapped in a square 285/35/20 MPSS tires. The track for reference is Thunder Hill West a small and tight 2 mile located in California. My question is should I start upgrading to adjustable suspension or simply add some camber plates to the front and give it a good track alignment ?

[mbar]

I would start with a standard alignment. It helped me tremendously. About 2.2 front 1.6 rear. That being said, with 285/35/20 front you might have rubbing issues.

[JRL1LE]

Originally Posted by Yenkocrew

The Car is a stock 2016 2SS with MRC using the 5th Gen 1LE/ZL1 20x10 & 20x11 wheels wrapped in a square 285/35/20 MPSS tires. The track for reference is Thunder Hill West a small and tight 2 mile located in California. My question is should I start upgrading to adjustable suspension or simply add some camber plates to the front and give it a good track alignment ?

What are your current alignment specs?

[Yenkocrew]

Current Specs are based on the recommended 1LE track specs from GM. However my tires seem to limit how much camber I can achieve since the adjustment rotates the spindle vs the entire strut assembly so the rub issue is something I had to fix with a 6mm spacer in the front. So options so far seem to be change the fronts to a 30 series to reduce the height and a more aggressive alignment ?

[HyperspaceTurd]

Camber plates would be where I would start on a strut car like these. I'm shooting for around -3 degrees up front, running a square 305/30/19 setup. On the stock rubber with an aggressive street alignment, my car rotates, probably a little too much under power, and I'm going to add more negative camber and toe-in to the back to settle it down if the wider tires don't help enough. The front camber really helps pull the car around tight corners though. I tend to run as much as I can without chewing the tires up too fast.

Make sure there is no toe-in up front, that will induce understeer right on turn-in.

I am no expert, but I have had to make several kinds of cars corner better. Once in a while I'm even successful! Sort of.

[JRL1LE]

Originally Posted by Yenkocrew

Current Specs are based on the recommended 1LE track specs from GM. However my tires seem to limit how much camber I can achieve since the adjustment rotates the spindle vs the entire strut assembly so the rub issue is something I had to fix with a 6mm spacer in the front. So options so far seem to be change the fronts to a 30 series to reduce the height and a more aggressive alignment ?

You should be able to dial out that understeer with alignment settings and tire pressure. I have done lots of laps at Thunderhill East and West. Send me a PM with the current alignment specs and maybe I can help.

[TrackClub]

A few comments:

1) 285/35/20 are VERY tall tires. Your gearing would be better with a shorter tire. Your turn in would likely also improve with a shorter sidewall.

2) since you have 1LE wheels why not run 1LE S3s which are a league above Super Sports and priced right.

3) don't know anything about non 1LE alignment capabilities but I run 2.6F and 1.6R (on 17 SS 1LE) on stock bolts and those specs are very good overall re handling and tire wear.

4) before spending $ on camber plates I'd see how much you can max out without them, perhaps with a similar "fix" to what some 1LE folks did for fatter wheels/tires: grinding. But if it the tire that's causing the issue I'd try a shorter one like an S3 hopefully for a better fit AND a great performance.

[apexit53]

more loud pedal on exit! hah jk.

I would start with a track alignment and go from there. You would be surprised what a good alignment can do for a car.

Where in the corner are you having the largest issue with understeer?

[Pollock]

How does the track alignment do on the street.

[apexit53]

Originally Posted by Pollock

How does the track alignment do on the street.

You will get some increased tire wear but it drives just fine I think. With the added camber it can follow some cracks and cambers in the road but other than that its not an issue.

[seanblurr]

John (JRL1LE) and I are both local and have a good amount of experience with these cars at that track. I agree with what he said, you should be able to get the car relatively balanced without major mods. I'm surprised you are experiencing this much understeer with a 285 square set up. Understanding that the factory tunes in understeer as it is safer, perhaps they did this more with the regular SS's compared to the 1LE's.

Start small, then work your way up.

1. Max out that camber, I was able to get -2.6 and -1.6 when I had my SS 1LE without modifications.

2. Dial in proper tire pressures

2a. Consider your driving style, what level would you consider yourself? It's not hard to drive yourself into understeer.

3. When these tires wear out, drop down to a 30 series tire.

4. Perhaps consider 1LE sway bars if different (Are they different??)

[LSmith353]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

John (JRL1LE) and I are both local and have a good amount of experience with these cars at that track. I agree with what he said, you should be able to get the car relatively balanced without major mods. I'm surprised you are experiencing this much understeer with a 285 square set up. Understanding that the factory tunes in understeer as it is safer, perhaps they did this more with the regular SS's compared to the 1LE's.

Start small, then work your way up.

1. Max out that camber, I was able to get -2.6 and -1.6 when I had my SS 1LE without modifications.

2. Dial in proper tire pressures

2a. Consider your driving style, what level would you consider yourself? It's not hard to drive yourself into understeer.

3. When these tires wear out, drop down to a 30 series tire.

4. Perhaps consider 1LE sway bars if different (Are they different??)

I have a regular SS w/ MRC. With a 35 series tire, max negative camber I could achieve on the front was -1.3. Tire rubs the spring perch with any more.

1LE sway bars (both front and rear) are different than standard SS, as well as control links (and springs).

[seanblurr]

Exactly why you should drop down to a 30 series tire. 35 is much too tall.

[ninetres]

Man all this talk about short side walls. I prefer the feel of a larger side wall.