[cellsafemode]

First pic is of the bulbs. 15 shipped.

Second pic is of the resistors and thermal epoxy. 5 bucks for 4 @25w and 6 bucks respectively

1 resistor is used for the reverse lights. 2 (1 each) for the blinkers up front which i need to wait a couple weeks to do. Then i'll have 1 extra.

The remaining pics are of the lights without and with flash and then just after they turn off to show that 8ohm resistors are sufficient to eliminate residual current.

Compared to the standard 5ohm (50w) resistors
8ohm 12v-14v is 1.5-1.75 amps wasted per resistor
5ohm 12v-14v is 2.4-2.8 amps wasted per resistor

[BadBillyJack]

[BowtieV8]

How are these treatin ya?

Is the assembly pretty similar to what we got going on in the other LED conversion thread? I see that only 1 resistor is needed. That's cool.

Do you have links to where I can look up and potentially purchase all the supplies you used?

[cellsafemode]

I'm not sure how the forum treats linking to places like amazon that aren't sponsors when there are sponsors offering competing products.

Assembly is a bit different from the other thread because the resistors i'm using are intended for tapping the factory wiring, rather than coming with bulb connectors so no modification to the factory wiring is required. Like the title of the thread says, it's the cheap route.

I also picked up some replacement bulbs for the license plate, trunk, and side indicators (all are size 194 bulbs). But i can't install those till i get my car back - probably next weekend.

The lights have been operating fine. They're brighter than stock but nothing like rearward headlights or anything like that. I plan on picking up a laser thermometer so I can verify what the resistor temp is now that the thermal epoxy has cured and all. I use 25 watt max resistors and based on the resistance and voltage they operate under I should be running at little more than half that wattage so they should be fine. Just want to be sure though.

[BowtieV8]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

I'm not sure how the forum treats linking to places like amazon that aren't sponsors when there are sponsors offering competing products.

Assembly is a bit different from the other thread because the resistors i'm using are intended for tapping the factory wiring, rather than coming with bulb connectors so no modification to the factory wiring is required. Like the title of the thread says, it's the cheap route.

I also picked up some replacement bulbs for the license plate, trunk, and side indicators (all are size 194 bulbs). But i can't install those till i get my car back - probably next weekend.

The lights have been operating fine. They're brighter than stock but nothing like rearward headlights or anything like that. I plan on picking up a laser thermometer so I can verify what the resistor temp is now that the thermal epoxy has cured and all. I use 25 watt max resistors and based on the resistance and voltage they operate under I should be running at little more than half that wattage so they should be fine. Just want to be sure though.

Awesome, I look forward to hearing what results you find after you get the car back and pick up the laser thermometer.

[Adrian97c]

So just used the epoxy to secure the resistor to the metal of the car? Instead of double sided tape. Was it hard knowing which wires from the harness to tap? I'm sure it's on the other thread somewhere... Don't know if anyone has close up pic of it.

[cellsafemode]

Yea, since in southern california I dont have to deal with extreme temp changes due to winter i didn't feel the need to also screw it in.

The thermal epoxy is what you use on small computer chips when you want to attach a heatsink. It's very efficient at conducting heat compared to the double sided thermal tape you can find. I wouldn't recommend using normal double sided tape since i dont believe the resistors get much air flow over their own heatsink where they're being mounted. That's why i'm attaching them to the metal to help carry away the heat.

There is only two wires going to the stock bulb connector. The resistor taps in parallel to the bulb, so one side of the resistor to one wire and the other side to the other wire.

[Adrian97c]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

Yea, since in southern california I dont have to deal with extreme temp changes due to winter i didn't feel the need to also screw it in.

The thermal epoxy is what you use on small computer chips when you want to attach a heatsink. It's very efficient at conducting heat compared to the double sided thermal tape you can find. I wouldn't recommend using normal double sided tape since i dont believe the resistors get much air flow over their own heatsink where they're being mounted. That's why i'm attaching them to the metal to help carry away the heat.

There is only two wires going to the stock bulb connector. The resistor taps in parallel to the bulb, so one side of the resistor to one wire and the other side to the other wire.

Sounds like a cheap & easy fix. Link for the resistors? I saw someone else used a Philips resistor, but the one you use produces less heat?

I def don't want to drill holes to mount it.

[cellsafemode]

They produce less heat but their heatsink is smaller than the 50watt variety. I would not suggest using the resistors without good thermal contact with the body of the car. Just not enough active air circulation to make me comfortable with the feeling of how hot they were.

I'll take their temps when i get my car back.

[Adrian97c]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

They produce less heat but their heatsink is smaller than the 50watt variety. I would not suggest using the resistors without good thermal contact with the body of the car. Just not enough active air circulation to make me comfortable with the feeling of how hot they were.

I'll take their temps when i get my car back.

Heat testing ever happen?

[LoJac963]

That's a great thought using thermal adhesive. The one reason I haven't done LED's in the reverse lights is simply for not wanting to drill into the body. Every mod I do I try to refrain from hacking into the factory harness or drilling into the body.

[Adrian97c]

Originally Posted by LoJac963

That's a great thought using thermal adhesive. The one reason I haven't done LED's in the reverse lights is simply for not wanting to drill into the body. Every mod I do I try to refrain from hacking into the factory harness or drilling into the body.

Same

[LoJac963]

Here's another thought.

Our Jeep runs a CANBUS system so without proper LED's the system thinks there is a light out and throws a code. Meaning CANBUS LED's have a build in resistor to create the resistance of a standard halogen bulb. Has anyone tried running CANBUS LED's in the reverse lights to see what would happen?

[crankaholic]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

Yea, since in southern california I dont have to deal with extreme temp changes due to winter i didn't feel the need to also screw it in.

The thermal epoxy is what you use on small computer chips when you want to attach a heatsink. It's very efficient at conducting heat compared to the double sided thermal tape you can find. I wouldn't recommend using normal double sided tape since i dont believe the resistors get much air flow over their own heatsink where they're being mounted. That's why i'm attaching them to the metal to help carry away the heat.

There is only two wires going to the stock bulb connector. The resistor taps in parallel to the bulb, so one side of the resistor to one wire and the other side to the other wire.

Cool stuff! Nice to see you took the time to understand the wiring and try a simple and thought out solution.

Let us know the temperature of the resistor after running the car for a bit and after having the lights on for a few seconds (I think I did 30 seconds and the resistors got up to 170F). Also, regarding temp, do you think the paint you adhered the resistor to conducts heat well enough to use the steel body as an effective heatsink? Try measuring the area right next to the heatsink, I'll do the same when I get a chance.

If one 25W resistor is enough to stop the LEDs from lighting up when reverse isn't engaged, I wonder why gen5diy saw fit to include two 50W units..? It's not a huge deal to me, but they may have been overly cautious with that.