Skip Shift Eliminator advise please (where to buy one)

[Diesel Tactical]

I need one of these badly. I see that Phastek, and Apex sells them but at a pretty high cost for a dummy plug. eBay/Amazon has them for much less, however I don't know if they are good or not? Anybody ever use one off eBay etc.?

Does it also affect the reverse lock out? Any issues when using these things?

Any advise would be great....Thanks

[sdynak]

No issues with reverse lockout as I understand they are separate features but have not attempted any tests myself.. LOL..

If you plan to get a tuner you can do it through that also so you don't need the physical eliminator.. But I did get one off e-bay and it was the same as you will find just less but do go with a good seller if you go that route or choose a known elsewhere. It is a must mod one way or another

[TX_ED_SS]

I picked mine up from APEX a few years back and I'm happy with it. It was worth the $25 for me.

[trclee]

I would recommend apex. They contribute a lot to the site and have great customer service. If you buy a cheapy it may work for a while but cheap electrical contacts may lead to corrosion over time. It's still cheaper to buy one good once than to buy 2 or more cheap ones.

[ron123]

While waiting for the device to arrive ... when the "1 to 4" shift indicator appears you can actually do "1 to 3" instead; it does not block third gear.

The skip shift eliminator simply has a single resistor (2,200 ohm - costs about a dollar - mine is 1 watt, that is plenty) across the connector terminals that plugs in to the two wires leading to the bypass solenoid. That resistor tricks the car in to thinking the wires are still attached to the bypass solenoid (places a small load on the circuit) so it will not throw a code after the solenoid is disconnected from the circuit.

It will not affect the reverse lock out solenoid.

I'd recommend double-checking whichever one you buy with an ohm meter to make sure resistance value is within specs before hooking it up (or build it yourself).
Ron

[ZED SLED]

Paid around $13 for one off ebay for my 2010 SS and same for the ZL1. High quality pieces. Never had an issue with either one. I recommend doing this. Forget all that leave it in first or shifting to other gears. Make the car do what you want it to do, not the other way around.

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by TX_ED_SS

I picked mine up from APEX a few years back and I'm happy with it. It was worth the $25 for me.

Originally Posted by trclee

I would recommend apex. They contribute a lot to the site and have great customer service. If you buy a cheapy it may work for a while but cheap electrical contacts may lead to corrosion over time. It's still cheaper to buy one good once than to buy 2 or more cheap ones.

Thanks!

[MrChrisLS3]

The skip shift is rpm based. I just learned to drive around it. Hold first a little longer, or shift to second a little sooner depending on which is more appropriate. On the rare occasion I do get caught in it, I just shift down to 4 then up to third in one motion if traffic is starting to move, or I just hold the clutch in a tick longer and shift to second. But, hey, people make a living building and selling these things, they need to eat too.

[Dfault]

Just get your car tuned dude. It'll save you a few bucks if you just get your tuner to do it.

[Jalberdi99]

Originally Posted by Dfault

Just get your car tuned dude. It'll save you a few bucks if you just get your tuner to do it.

tuning your car will void the warranty , right?

[el ess A]

Originally Posted by Jalberdi99

tuning your car will void the warranty , right?

Technically, yes. Practically, the chances of getting "caught" by the dealership are slim. But the possibility is real.

I ended up with a Hurst brand skip shift eliminator harness, but I'm guessing it's the same as all the others. I would recommend a plug-n-play harness style over the resistor plugged onto the end, and the only reason why is that you maintain the water-resistant plugs on either end to keep water from corroding anything within the plugs. Does the same thing but you protect your plugs better using the harness. And unless anyone is really looking, may not even notice it.

On the ZL1, I've had that dang hill assist get me more times than the 1-4 shift solenoid ever did though. And I've got a fix for that too, if I ever find time to take out the console to get to that sensor.

[Jasper]

You're driving too softly. I never have an issue in my car. Give it more throttle man! Perhaps the Vitesse Throttle Controller is giving me a hand as well

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by Jalberdi99

tuning your car will void the warranty , right?

It will not outright void your warranty. If your car is tuned and one of your windows stop rolling up it will have no impact. However, if you have a catastrophic drive train problem, the service tech is required to forward a copy of your ECM info to GM. If it has been modified they will refuse the claim to cover it under warranty and you will be on the hook for a big repair bill.

[Dfault]

Originally Posted by Apex Motorsports

It will not outright void your warranty. If your car is tuned and one of your windows stop rolling up it will have no impact. However, if you have a catastrophic drive train problem, the service tech is required to forward a copy of your ECM info to GM. If it has been modified they will refuse the claim to cover it under warranty and you will be on the hook for a big repair bill.

This, but I didn't care. I bought the car, and that same day had my LT headers, intake, exhaust and tune installed. The mods were installed with 200 miles on the odo. Simply because I bought it out of town and had to get to the garage to have it done.