[cellsafemode]

As the page states, this was just a report taken from data on a certain engine and vehicle model where the avg drain interval was about 4000 miles. I think 4k is about average for people here since we tend to change our oil twice or more a year whether it needs it or not.

http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/why-ex...ney-1797241527

4k seems to be far too frequent for full synthetic oils to show their superiority and well within the range of blended or even current day conventional oils.

So use whatever you want if you change your oil that often. It doesn't matter at all when you're swapping it out that frequently.

No info on the oil filters used though. So that debate can remain.

[MiamiBlueCamaro]

Good info and i follow this:

[PinHead]

I follow the GM LT4 Crate Break in procedure;



Start-up and Break-in Procedures
Use only engine oil licensed to the dexos1® specification of the proper SAE viscosity grade. AC Delco dexos1 Synthetic Blend
is recommended. For track events or competitive driving, use Mobil 1® 15W-50 engine oil. Safety first, if the vehicle is on the
ground, be sure the park brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed
properly and nothing was missed.

This engine assembly needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the
appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick.

This crate engine require a special oil meeting dexos1.
Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.

The engine should be primed with oil before starting. Install an oil pressure gauge (there is a plugged port that can be used to
mechanically measure oil pressure and used to force prime the system using Kent More J45299 priming tool, see Figure 9/10).
Note: Removal of the spark plugs will allow the engine to spin faster and build oil pressure faster.

Once the ignition control system has been disconnected, crank the engine using the starter for 10 seconds and check for oil
pressure. If no pressure is indicated, wait 30 seconds and crank again for 10 seconds.

Repeat this process until oil pressure is indicated on the gauge.
Reconnect the ignition control system. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. If no unusual noises are noted, run
the engine at approximately 1000 RPM until normal operating temperature is reached.

When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and
water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.

The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle
(WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.

Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear
.
Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.

Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new PF64 AC Delco oil
filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.

Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine
speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.

Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning
properly.

Then after every 3,000mi or after every track day. Oil is cheap insurance.

[Sub]

Pinhead, Is that first complicated part done at the factory? So we would swap oil at 500 miles?

Interesting article cellsafe. I used to use all amsoil stuff when I tracked my c5z, good stuff.