[Ryephile]

-->Hawk Fan: It's great to hear your system turned out to your satisfaction!

I do have a question regarding the subwoofer enclosure. How does it stay in position in the trunk? Is there any fastening to keep it in position during cornering/accel/braking, other than carpet friction?

Cheers!

[Hawk Fan]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

-->Hawk Fan: It's great to hear your system turned out to your satisfaction!

I do have a question regarding the subwoofer enclosure. How does it stay in position in the trunk? Is there any fastening to keep it in position during cornering/accel/braking, other than carpet friction?

Cheers!

Thanks, and yeah he fabricated a couple small Metal angle brackets to hold the sub in place. I doubt they would hold up in a 6g crash scenario, but i took my car out to some of my favorite corners and pulled some 1g turns and they seemed to hold up to that just fine. I can take some pics of the brackets if you like?

[histobeast]

Glad I read through thread. I used to have a '15 Ford Focus ST1 that had the basic audio system and did exactly what was described earlier. Speaker inputs from front to LCi6 to two amps. Mono for sub and 4channel to door speakers. I still have the alpine amps, JL 12w3v3 sub and LCi6 from the focus but left the speakers in the doors. I hate that I'm not using the equipment and it's just sitting in a spare bedroom. Looking forward to a project. Thanks for all the input.

[JayhawkSS1LE]

Originally Posted by histobeast

Glad I read through thread. I used to have a '15 Ford Focus ST1 that had the basic audio system and did exactly what was described earlier. Speaker inputs from front to LCi6 to two amps. Mono for sub and 4channel to door speakers. I still have the alpine amps, JL 12w3v3 sub and LCi6 from the focus but left the speakers in the doors. I hate that I'm not using the equipment and it's just sitting in a spare bedroom. Looking forward to a project. Thanks for all the input.

let me know when you do yours, I wouldnt mind lending a hand/seeing whats involved before I dive into mine lol

[WhyUMad1LE]

Ok, so if I read correctly, the source is under the glovebox, we connect that to a DSP/line out converter which is then connected to a signal-sensing amplifier.

Is there a way around having the turn signals and seatbelt chime being super loud? The seatbelt one already hurts my ears stock.

Setup I'm looking at:
Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" components w/ tweeters in the front
Hi-Energy 6x9s in the rear deck
No rear panel speakers
Not really sure on the amp, debating between JL XD/HD or Hybrid audio 5 channel.
Fix86/LC7i loc

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by WhyUMad1LE

Ok, so if I read correctly, the source is under the glovebox, we connect that to a DSP/line out converter which is then connected to a signal-sensing amplifier.

Is there a way around having the turn signals and seatbelt chime being super loud? The seatbelt one already hurts my ears stock.

Setup I'm looking at:
Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" components w/ tweeters in the front
Hi-Energy 6x9s in the rear deck
No rear panel speakers
Not really sure on the amp, debating between JL XD/HD or Hybrid audio 5 channel.
Fix86/LC7i loc

Basically, but that's not terribly easy to get to. I ended up tapping into the speaker wires going into the door bulkhead connector. From there I ran the high-level back to my miniDSP, and the from the amp channels back up to the door splice, and new wires ran up to the dash locations.

Also RE: the door chime. No, if you want verified full range, then you get the door chime. The rear channels appear to be attenuated and/or a truncated frequency response.

For what it's worth on choosing components, keep in mind the cars noise floor is really high, so you'll never get studio quality sound driving down the road like you would in a Lexus et al.

[slythetove]

I have no car audio experience so this may be a dumb question.

When you guys say "tapping into" the speaker wire. Do you really mean you are cutting the wires then using something to splice all the wires (old and new) back together?

To do a sub only I keep picturing taking the speaker wire from say the driver or passenger rear panel speaker and cutting it then splicing in a new speaker wire that runs to the amp high level input.

Is that correct?

[The_Coleman]

Originally Posted by histobeast

Glad I read through thread. I used to have a '15 Ford Focus ST1 that had the basic audio system and did exactly what was described earlier. Speaker inputs from front to LCi6 to two amps. Mono for sub and 4channel to door speakers. I still have the alpine amps, JL 12w3v3 sub and LCi6 from the focus but left the speakers in the doors. I hate that I'm not using the equipment and it's just sitting in a spare bedroom. Looking forward to a project. Thanks for all the input.

I am interested in how this turns out as well. I am planning to do the same over the winter while I have it parked in the garage. I already dumped all the gear from my WRX into my beater truck though so I'll have to start from scratch on the equipment.

Like JayHawk said, if you are open to meeting new people/being the guinea pig... I might be able to sort out some time.

[7stringtheory]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Basically, but that's not terribly easy to get to. I ended up tapping into the speaker wires going into the door bulkhead connector. From there I ran the high-level back to my miniDSP, and the from the amp channels back up to the door splice, and new wires ran up to the dash locations.

Also RE: the door chime. No, if you want verified full range, then you get the door chime. The rear channels appear to be attenuated and/or a truncated frequency response.

For what it's worth on choosing components, keep in mind the cars noise floor is really high, so you'll never get studio quality sound driving down the road like you would in a Lexus et al.

The rear speaker outs are full range outs according to my installer, the doors arent.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by 7stringtheory

The rear speaker outs are full range outs according to my installer, the doors arent.

Regarding the frequency response signal to the front door, your installer is 100% wrong. I have the measured response graphs to prove it via my REW and UMIK-1.

The front doors and dash speakers are the same channel from the factory receiver.

[umby24]

Originally Posted by slythetove

I have no car audio experience so this may be a dumb question.

When you guys say "tapping into" the speaker wire. Do you really mean you are cutting the wires then using something to splice all the wires (old and new) back together?

To do a sub only I keep picturing taking the speaker wire from say the driver or passenger rear panel speaker and cutting it then splicing in a new speaker wire that runs to the amp high level input.

Is that correct?

You could do that, you could also solder them all together after doing that,

you could use a wire tap like these, which push a connecting piece of metal between the two wires (Doesn't require splicing),

Probably some other ways out there also

[histobeast]

JayhawkSS1LE and The_Coleman absolutely y'all are welcome to come by. It will be a little while before I buy speakers though so don't hold your breath. I will document the whole process with photos too.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Also RE: the door chime. No, if you want verified full range, then you get the door chime. The rear channels appear to be attenuated and/or a truncated frequency response.

So all the signal alerts, door chime, seat belt chime, park assist beeps Etc. go through the output from the receiver to the speakers in-line with the actual "music" (I.E. Radio and Multi-Media) volume? I thought these chimes had their "own" volumes which can be capped to a lower signal level and this would avoid them breaking in with the full volume coming together with the music (post external Amp/s to the speakers...)

[The_Coleman]

Originally Posted by histobeast

JayhawkSS1LE and The_Coleman absolutely y'all are welcome to come by. It will be a little while before I buy speakers though so don't hold your breath. I will document the whole process with photos too.

I have poor impulse control when it comes to buying toys, so I may beat you to it and be the Atlanta area guinea pig. I already began considering canabalizing things from my truck to reuse, but then it will be a quiet winter commute.


I hate the idea of splicing into the factory harness. I have been considering trying to find out what kind of connector it is and then ordering some parts form mouser or digi-key and making a clean tap in. While shopping crutchfield though I remembered they will give me the factory connector to spade connector adapter so if I run new speaker wire (I will), I can use those to tap the speaker input.