Low gear bucking, and hard shifting - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Electric · 09-04-2016, 11:16 AM

Brought my car in for some service. Apparently, someone who didn't know what they were doing took my car for a joy ride and damaged something in the drivetrain.

Right now the shifts in every gear have gotten very notchy, particularly into 1st and Revere. Gets worse when cold. On top of that, the car also wants to "buck" alot when starting moving from a traffic light at "normal" pace and when coasting down in a first or second gear.

I am particularly annoyed by the bucking issue because it effects passenger comfort and makes it look like I don't know what I'm doing.

Dealership will not acknowledge that there is a problem, stating that everything is normal. So I'm left on my own figuring out what exactly was damaged.

Any thoughts what could be the cause of the problem?

I was hoping that they simply busted a transmission mount. But it's not the case, the motor and transmission mounts are nice and tight. :(

Thanks in advance!

Olddudesrule · 09-04-2016, 12:20 PM

Any chance you had a tune installed prior to the service, and the dealer could have flashed over your custom tune. Making changes to the torque management tables will cause the symptoms you're describing. Custom tuners will make changes to that table to smooth out the affects of a more radical cam on slow speed drivability. Long shot, but thought it was worth asking....

Electric · 09-04-2016, 02:44 PM

Stock tune, but thanks for the suggestion.

Another piece of information, it seems that the condition can improve or get worse. At its worst, I can feel vibrations though the clutch pedal.

Olddudesrule · 09-04-2016, 07:03 PM

Just curious, what type of service was it in for? Secondly, does the clutch pedal action feel any different? Engagement at the same point it was prior to the service?

Electric · 09-04-2016, 09:11 PM

Pretty sure clutch still feels the same, and engages at the same point.

SS MoFo · 09-04-2016, 11:18 PM

The drive line has been equipped with inertia 'dampers' that may need to be re-torqued with thread locking bolts you get from Chevrolet service. Or you could just re-use your bolts and add some lock-tight. The gear box shift problems can likely be cured by replacing the ATF fluid with a high performance alternative. Do a search in the 1LE forum for feedback on the type of fluids people like. Just so you know, the service department would have had to taken your car out for an extended high speed abusive sprint for these types of symptoms to appear at the same time. Most likely it's just normal use that causes the bucking. I change my gearbox ATF fluid every 30k miles. Also, need to take my car to the dealership for service I stay at the dealership and wait for the car.

Hopefully the gearbox shift hardware hasn't been F'ed up. Let us know what you discover.

Electric · 09-05-2016, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS MoFo

The drive line has been equipped with inertia 'dampers' that may need to be re-torqued with thread locking bolts you get from Chevrolet service. Or you could just re-use your bolts and add some lock-tight. The gear box shift problems can likely be cured by replacing the ATF fluid with a high performance alternative. Do a search in the 1LE forum for feedback on the type of fluids people like. Just so you know, the service department would have had to taken your car out for an extended high speed abusive sprint for these types of symptoms to appear at the same time. Most likely it's just normal use that causes the bucking. I change my gearbox ATF fluid every 30k miles. Also, need to take my car to the dealership for service I stay at the dealership and wait for the car.

Hopefully the gearbox shift hardware hasn't been F'ed up. Let us know what you discover.

You might be onto something. Could you clarify where the inertia dampers are located? Just did some search and, apparently, there is a pulley attached to the engine that is used to keep it from vibrating. Is that what you are referring to?

SS MoFo · 09-05-2016, 10:16 AM

Both ends of the propeller shaft "drive line". I plan on changing mine out next oil change. It looks like it's going to be a hassle due to the the performance exhaust will need to be removed. After looking at the shop manual, Chevrolet recommends new coupler(s) and bolts torqed to 67 ft lb.

I going to look around for an aftermarket coupler for inertia dampening. Anyone seen an aftermarket option?

SS MoFo · 09-05-2016, 10:55 AM

I'm going to need to lift the car and take a closer look at the mount that connects the two propeller shafts together in the middle. That might be part of the bucking problem too. I noticed I'm getting some noise at 75+ when on the accelerator. Sounded like a bearing starting to make noise but it might be the drive line center getting flexed a little. Here's how the service manual describes the drive line.

PROPELLER SHAFT DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The propeller shaft is a two piece tube supported by a sealed for life centre bearing and non-servicable universal
joint. It has a rubber coupling at each end joining the propeller shaft to the transmission and the differential. All
propeller shafts are fixed to the rubber couplings by 3 bolts and 3 torque prevailing nuts which are discarded
when removed. Torque prevailing nuts have a low friction coating to ensure no damage to the coupling when
assembled, correct nuts must be used. The rubber couplings are then mounted to the differential with 3 bolts and
the transmission with 3 bolts and 3 torque prevailing nuts which are also discarded when removed. The centre
bearing assembly is fixed to the body with 2 bolts. The two-piece propeller shaft is used to transmit power from
the transmission to the differential. The centre bearing and rubber couplings are used to support and connect the
propeller shaft and decrease vibration, noise and harshness.

Electric · 09-05-2016, 06:58 PM

Thanks MoFo! Looks like I will be tightening the propeller shaft in the next few days.

BTW, another observation: I can no longer chirp the tires during fast shifting, the driveling in its present condition is absorbing all the access torque.

ron123 · 09-06-2016, 08:33 PM

Here is a picture showing what the giubo coupler looks like at the transmission and differential ends
of the driveshaft.
It absorbs a lot of energy, like a rubberband; helps prevent things from braking under high torque.
This view shows giubo on left and the center bearing on right side of picture.

Ron

Woodsman44 · 09-15-2016, 01:21 PM

Any resolution or update on this? I have a little low speed bucking from "slack" in the driveline that is certainly annoying.

CapeCruisin · 09-15-2016, 01:35 PM

OP:
I thought all of what you described were normal for this car.
Am I wrong? I experience everything you mentioned. The only thing my dealer has said so far is it needs a new slave cylinder, something to that... hmm... which is an unrelated issue (clutch sticking at WOT)

The Hunter · 09-15-2016, 02:51 PM

I have also experienced all of this and assumed this was normal and I got my car new.

09-04-2016, 11:16 AM	#1
Electric Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: NE Posts: 165	Low gear bucking, and hard shifting Brought my car in for some service. Apparently, someone who didn't know what they were doing took my car for a joy ride and damaged something in the drivetrain. Right now the shifts in every gear have gotten very notchy, particularly into 1st and Revere. Gets worse when cold. On top of that, the car also wants to "buck" alot when starting moving from a traffic light at "normal" pace and when coasting down in a first or second gear. I am particularly annoyed by the bucking issue because it effects passenger comfort and makes it look like I don't know what I'm doing. Dealership will not acknowledge that there is a problem, stating that everything is normal. So I'm left on my own figuring out what exactly was damaged. Any thoughts what could be the cause of the problem? I was hoping that they simply busted a transmission mount. But it's not the case, the motor and transmission mounts are nice and tight. :( Thanks in advance!

09-04-2016, 12:20 PM	#2
Olddudesrule Resident nomad Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,765	Any chance you had a tune installed prior to the service, and the dealer could have flashed over your custom tune. Making changes to the torque management tables will cause the symptoms you're describing. Custom tuners will make changes to that table to smooth out the affects of a more radical cam on slow speed drivability. Long shot, but thought it was worth asking.... __________________ Sold: 2007 Z06 2002 Viper GTS/ACR 2003 Z06 1965 FFR Cobra 2012 Nissan 370Z ADM LSA Stage II, Roto-Fab CAI, Kooks LTH/HFC's, Phastek CC, ported TB, Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler, BC Racing ER Series CO's, JPSS 32mm Black Magic rear bar, JPSS front inserts, R1 Concepts Premier slotted rotors/Goodrich SS lines, Schroth ASM harness, MGW flatstick, Brey-Krause HB, Tuned by NicD, at Cordes Performance Racing.

09-04-2016, 07:03 PM	#4
Olddudesrule Resident nomad Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,765	Just curious, what type of service was it in for? Secondly, does the clutch pedal action feel any different? Engagement at the same point it was prior to the service? __________________ Sold: 2007 Z06 2002 Viper GTS/ACR 2003 Z06 1965 FFR Cobra 2012 Nissan 370Z ADM LSA Stage II, Roto-Fab CAI, Kooks LTH/HFC's, Phastek CC, ported TB, Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler, BC Racing ER Series CO's, JPSS 32mm Black Magic rear bar, JPSS front inserts, R1 Concepts Premier slotted rotors/Goodrich SS lines, Schroth ASM harness, MGW flatstick, Brey-Krause HB, Tuned by NicD, at Cordes Performance Racing.

09-04-2016, 11:18 PM	#6
SS MoFo Drives: 2014 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: U.S.A Posts: 100	The drive line has been equipped with inertia 'dampers' that may need to be re-torqued with thread locking bolts you get from Chevrolet service. Or you could just re-use your bolts and add some lock-tight. The gear box shift problems can likely be cured by replacing the ATF fluid with a high performance alternative. Do a search in the 1LE forum for feedback on the type of fluids people like. Just so you know, the service department would have had to taken your car out for an extended high speed abusive sprint for these types of symptoms to appear at the same time. Most likely it's just normal use that causes the bucking. I change my gearbox ATF fluid every 30k miles. Also, need to take my car to the dealership for service I stay at the dealership and wait for the car. Hopefully the gearbox shift hardware hasn't been F'ed up. Let us know what you discover. Last edited by SS MoFo; 09-04-2016 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Bad Grammer !

09-06-2016, 08:33 PM	#11
ron123 Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 1,053	Here is a picture showing what the giubo coupler looks like at the transmission and differential ends of the driveshaft. It absorbs a lot of energy, like a rubberband; helps prevent things from braking under high torque. This view shows giubo on left and the center bearing on right side of picture. Ron __________________ 2014 2SS/RS, Z28 CAI and High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 5.1:1 Ratio Short-Throw Shifter, ZL1 Pedals, ZL1 splash guards, NPP Dual-mode quad tip exhaust, Z28 strut tower brace, Camaro LED Cup-holders with footwell Lighting option, Leather visors, and Leather E-brake boot. Chevy dealer sponsored 67 retro SS nose stripe package.

09-04-2016, 02:44 PM	#3
Electric Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: NE Posts: 165	Stock tune, but thanks for the suggestion. Another piece of information, it seems that the condition can improve or get worse. At its worst, I can feel vibrations though the clutch pedal.

09-04-2016, 09:11 PM	#5
Electric Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: NE Posts: 165	Pretty sure clutch still feels the same, and engages at the same point.

09-05-2016, 10:16 AM	#8
SS MoFo Drives: 2014 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: U.S.A Posts: 100	Both ends of the propeller shaft "drive line". I plan on changing mine out next oil change. It looks like it's going to be a hassle due to the the performance exhaust will need to be removed. After looking at the shop manual, Chevrolet recommends new coupler(s) and bolts torqed to 67 ft lb. I going to look around for an aftermarket coupler for inertia dampening. Anyone seen an aftermarket option?

09-05-2016, 10:55 AM	#9
SS MoFo Drives: 2014 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: U.S.A Posts: 100	I'm going to need to lift the car and take a closer look at the mount that connects the two propeller shafts together in the middle. That might be part of the bucking problem too. I noticed I'm getting some noise at 75+ when on the accelerator. Sounded like a bearing starting to make noise but it might be the drive line center getting flexed a little. Here's how the service manual describes the drive line. PROPELLER SHAFT DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION The propeller shaft is a two piece tube supported by a sealed for life centre bearing and non-servicable universal joint. It has a rubber coupling at each end joining the propeller shaft to the transmission and the differential. All propeller shafts are fixed to the rubber couplings by 3 bolts and 3 torque prevailing nuts which are discarded when removed. Torque prevailing nuts have a low friction coating to ensure no damage to the coupling when assembled, correct nuts must be used. The rubber couplings are then mounted to the differential with 3 bolts and the transmission with 3 bolts and 3 torque prevailing nuts which are also discarded when removed. The centre bearing assembly is fixed to the body with 2 bolts. The two-piece propeller shaft is used to transmit power from the transmission to the differential. The centre bearing and rubber couplings are used to support and connect the propeller shaft and decrease vibration, noise and harshness.

09-05-2016, 06:58 PM	#10
Electric Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: NE Posts: 165	Thanks MoFo! Looks like I will be tightening the propeller shaft in the next few days. BTW, another observation: I can no longer chirp the tires during fast shifting, the driveling in its present condition is absorbing all the access torque.

09-15-2016, 01:21 PM	#12
Woodsman44 Drives: 2013 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 105	Any resolution or update on this? I have a little low speed bucking from "slack" in the driveline that is certainly annoying.

09-15-2016, 01:35 PM	#13
CapeCruisin Daily Driver 24/7 365 Drives: '15 CRT 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Cape Cod, MA Posts: 827	OP: I thought all of what you described were normal for this car. Am I wrong? I experience everything you mentioned. The only thing my dealer has said so far is it needs a new slave cylinder, something to that... hmm... which is an unrelated issue (clutch sticking at WOT) __________________ NPP Fuse Pull, Z28 CAI = Previous Rides: 2005 Magnum R/T A5 CAI, Cat-Back 2014 RRM Camaro 1LT/RS A6/NPP CAI Follow Me On Instagram!

09-15-2016, 02:51 PM	#14
The Hunter Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Pinellas Park Posts: 129 View My Garage	I have also experienced all of this and assumed this was normal and I got my car new.