Jamestown's budget minded 1le

[jamestown]

Come to think of it, maybe I am over thinking the temp measuring not being comparable.

If the oil flow is pan - pump - filter - cooler - engine components - pan then the oil temp in the pan has to be pretty similar to the oil temp after the pump or filter. Welp short of installing two temp sensors, I guess I'll never know. It's probably fine!

[jamestown]

I had been meaning to keep a mod list as well (to be maintained on the second post) so here is the first rough draft:

Current Mod List:

weathertech mats
xpel clear bra
npp fuse pull
omp gas pedal
skip shift eliminator
autometer oil temp and oil pressure gauge
improved racing oil thermostat / 12 an lines
setrab series 6 60 row oil cooler
improved racing oil pan baffle
tick clutch fluid bleeder
hill start assist delete
carbotech pads xp12/xp10
sparco pro2000 / planted bracket
quantum brake ducts
dorman master cylinder gasket (failed!)
track alignment
melling m295 oil pump
oil pan pressure relief valve delete
battery shim

Planned Mods:
hard brake ti shims
g-loc r16 pads for the front
1le oil separator install
get a better bolt for seat install
replace driver side brake duct (currently slightly too short for ideal routing)
get a better master cylinder cap
install z/28 belly tray
install z/28 grille
install 6 piston front zo6 brembos (likely in 2017)

My dorman master cylinder gasket worked for a while but it is now back to spitting brake fluid all over. I finally broke down and bought an additional motive adapter that I plan to modify to solve this once and for all as my power bleeder seals on the master cylinder without issue. The cap will have to breath so I plan to just cut the hose and clamp it *mostly* shut.

[jamestown]

Hopefully everything lines up this week and I actually make it out to a track! Aiming for Friday to test everything out at a small track. It's been a while since I've gotten out so I'm pretty pumped about it.

I actually kind of hope it rains - no one else will show up and you can really learn a lot in relative safety when compared to driving on a wet high speed track. We will see.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by jamestown

I had been meaning to keep a mod list as well (to be maintained on the second post) so here is the first rough draft:

Current Mod List:

weathertech mats
xpel clear bra
npp fuse pull
omp gas pedal
skip shift eliminator
autometer oil temp and oil pressure gauge
improved racing oil thermostat / 12 an lines
setrab series 6 60 row oil cooler
improved racing oil pan baffle
tick clutch fluid bleeder
hill start assist delete
carbotech pads xp12/xp10
sparco pro2000 / planted bracket
quantum brake ducts
dorman master cylinder gasket (failed!)
track alignment
melling m295 oil pump
oil pan pressure relief valve delete
battery shim

Planned Mods:
hard brake ti shims
g-loc r16 pads for the front
1le oil separator install
get a better bolt for seat install
replace driver side brake duct (currently slightly too short for ideal routing)
get a better master cylinder cap
install z/28 belly tray
install z/28 grille
install 6 piston front zo6 brembos (likely in 2017)

My dorman master cylinder gasket worked for a while but it is now back to spitting brake fluid all over. I finally broke down and bought an additional motive adapter that I plan to modify to solve this once and for all as my power bleeder seals on the master cylinder without issue. The cap will have to breath so I plan to just cut the hose and clamp it *mostly* shut.

I have shared my thoughts on the MC gasket/diaphram in my build thread ( http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395103 ) and here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367329


Concerning the seal/gasket/diaphram:

-The wetness observed is from fluid seeping thru the slit due to pressure build-up within the MC
-This is normal. Do not overfill the reservoir. I keep mine a little below the full mark. I just did a track day on the 8th, I had zero leakage onto the MC,
-Early thoughts were that the reservoir was leaking at the seam. This is not the issue. Some of those had the MC reservoir replace under warranty
-The Dorman diaphram has the slit as does the OE diaphram. If you drive the car hard enough over a sustained period of time, you will most likely find fluid outside the reservoir.
-The slit in the diaphram is there for pressure release, and it should not be blocked. The fluid then travels thru a small channel on the backside of the black OE cap (remove the diaphram from the cap and you will see this) where it then finds its way onto the top of the MC reservoir.
- The fluid comes thru the slit upon a rise in pressure, but the tightness of the slit (enter suggestive comments here )keeps the MC sealed during normal situations. The MC reservoir must be isolated from atmosphere so the fluid does not absorb moisture.
- If you were to completely seal the MC reservoir, you will lose the pressure relief (valve) this pressure then builds in the rest of the system, where you will most likely feel it first (if severe enough) in the clutch hydraulics as a stuck pedal. This is if you are still using the MC reservoir as your clutch reservoir also (OE). I have a separated clutch reservoir.

I see you were not going to seal it completely, but look at it again. If I am understanding what you are going to do, the fluid will be exposed to atmosphere and moisture. The system works if the details are looked at. A little fluid spilling on the MC reservoir is not a red flag or a reason to reinvent the wheel.

You have a great build going!

[jamestown]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

- The fluid comes thru the slit upon a rise in pressure, but the tightness of the slit (enter suggestive comments here )keeps the MC sealed during normal situations. The MC reservoir must be isolated from atmosphere so the fluid does not absorb moisture.

I don't disagree with anything you've said - except above. As the brake pads wear out the fluid goes down in the mastercylinder as more is pushed into the calipers. This creates a vaccume, so the pressure relief is actually sucking atmosphere in. With rises and falls in fluid temperature it could also be pushing air out too, but it is definitly not one way.

In my case it is more than a drop or two as well and I have tried a few things - different fluild levels etc. I am mostly out of ideas. The cap itself seems slightly too large for the master cylinder, it can shift off without unscrewing it - and these things are independant of the slit in the gasket and small plastic vein on the underside of the cap designed to normalize the pressure to atmosphere. I think most of my leak is a result of the fitment.

[cdb95z28]

You make a good pont. Have you ever pulled the cap off and found the center of the diaphram extended? That is from that vacuum. But the amount the extension displaces is nowhere near the level of fluid drop due to pad wear.

Yeah, that is not good to have the cap come off as you mentioned!

[jamestown]

1le air oil seperator installed! Probably should have done this a while ago it was pretty straight forward.

[jamestown]

My z/28 grille and belly pan showed up unexpectedly today as well so I couldn't help myself. Installed!

The grille install is actually a pretty big pain in the ass. The plastic tabs that hold the bumper and grill together are a very tight fit and the materiel is also very soft it is hard not to damage it when you are trying to get it apart. I don't think gm really intended for it to be taken apart - that grille certainly isn't going anywhere from the factory.

The z/28 belly pan was mostly bolt up, but the z/28 bumper and 1le bumper must be slightly different as I had to trim the 1le bumper to get it to mate with the z/28 belly pan. The belly pan mod is awesome though, for the cost I should have done this sooner. Very happy with it. The z/28 belly pan itself is reinforced plastic, quite a nice piece.