01-12-2016, 05:49 PM | #15 |
BCS Auto
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[QUOTE=WoodBoss;8837945]A pristine car with 15k miles beats out a pristine car with 70k miles every time.[QUOTE]
Duh, that's like saying $15 beats out $5 every time.
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01-12-2016, 07:36 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2015 Z/28; 1969 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: York, PA
Posts: 807
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If it's a 2SS I wouldn't value it at over $17k for low to average retail. Ask the dealer hypothetically - 'if I buy the car today and then bring it back tomorrow to trade, what will you give me?' Take that number minus $2k and that's what the car is 'worth'.
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01-12-2016, 08:48 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2021 scatpack challenger 6spd cinna Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 427
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Hi,
You just got to go with what you feel is ok. Do you feel a car that is driven the avg amt of miles a year is good or a car that is rarely driven. I would rather have the one driven regularly myself. Seems things would dry up and get old or stale when they are sitting over the years and barely driven. I would think a regularly driven car is maintained more regularly than one that has low miles compared to years. But that is up to you what you feel. About the price. I just bought a new 1SS in Nov and new I did ok from researching KBB and the other car calculator web sites. Use that rather than peoples replies. I don't think a lot of people include the out to door costs like tax and license in there price they say they got a car for. Also about getting the price for the exact KBB price or what people tell you should pay. Sometimes the car feel from driving, the look, or color is enough for you to pay what you feel the car is worth rather than what others tell you. So negotiate the best you can but you can usually tell when you and the dealer are at the point where you are at the best price you are going to get and you can either walk or get the car. On mine I chose to get the car. And I am glad because even though it is stock. I haven't seen the exact looking one on the road yet. And by the way. I feel I got a good deal but some got better ones if I believe the posts I've read. As long as your happy that's what matters. Also each time you negotiate with the dealer. You will learn what you should have done for next time. I researched for a long time and still made a few mistakes. As long as the mistakes aren't out of your budget it's just a learning exp. Good luck and go with what you feel with some research, but take what others say not so much. Even me. If anything I posted helps, cool, if not its just ones guys opinion. Since the people on here are not your family or really care for you personally we are just stating what we would do. Only you know what you can live with. BTW, good to ask about any issues from owners of that year and model. Too me that is something you can get from a forum like this. Kevin |
01-12-2016, 09:31 PM | #18 | |
Doing what I like to do
Drives: 1963 Landrover Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Almost at the corner !
Posts: 667
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Quote:
But if the numbers are tempting , ask someone , a mechanic to take a good look at it Better than tha fax thing |
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01-13-2016, 09:04 AM | #19 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2LT RS Convertible Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: USAREUR, CONUS/DOD-A, VA
Posts: 1,745
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Quote:
Hopefully this convertible is at a Chevy / GM dealer and perhaps also a GM Certified Pre-Owned (CPO)? According to GM, it may be within 75k miles and still qualify. Here's the link to GM's CPO program:http://www.gmcertified.com/certified-benefits You could also put the word out to your local GM / Chevy dealers that you're looking for a specific model and year(s) and ask them to do a search for you. That might produce a favorable result more quickly for you. However, don't forget that if you buy a 2011-2012 convertible (or any convertible, for that matter) you may have top issues to deal with and that could cost quite a bit to repair out of your own pocket. Ergo, I'd highly recommend a GM CPO convertible and BE SURE TO ASK whether the top and associated components are covered during the 2 year, 24k mile CPO coverage period and GET IT IN WRITING - as long as it's written somewhere on your copy of the sales contract and signed or initialed by a manager, you'll be covered if something should go wrong with the top during the CPO warranty period. It's your money! CYA (cover your ass)! Good luck and please keep us posted on your search and findings.
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2011 Camaro 2LT RS Convertible
Summit White Black Leather 3 Pedals Build Date: 06/27/2011 Purchased: 07/30/2011 Title Received: 08/15/2011 1984 Camaro (3rd Gen.): Traded: 1987 "Meet the new boss. Same as the old boss." |
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01-13-2016, 10:07 AM | #20 | |
Drives: Black SS Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 434
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Quote:
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01-13-2016, 05:38 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Orwigsburg
Posts: 218
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Is this normal with the gap between the body and top? I'm at the dealer now.=http://s105.photobucket.com/user/bianca_heart2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpslznbalie.jpeg.html][/URL][/IMG]
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01-13-2016, 09:26 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2013 Dusk 2ss/RS conv. Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Western Illinois
Posts: 281
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Mine has that gap too. I assume it allows the water to drain through apposed to puddling on the seal.
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2013 Dusk Camaro/Convertible/2SS RS/6 Speed Auto/One of Sixty Nine
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