What am i missing or should do different? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

balla48801 · 10-20-2014, 05:20 PM

Getting excited about getting all my parts in. Going to install as soon as i get my differential done. In the mean time tell me what im missing or should have done different. Im going to do a little drag racing next year but other than that just spirited driving. So far what i have is as follows.

2010 Camaro SS A6

Suspension:
Zl1 Lower Control Arms (In case I want to change to FE4 sway bars)
BMR Trailing Arms
BMR Toe Rods
BMR Rear Trailing Arm Outer Bushing
BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Kit
BMR Rear Cradle Bushings Race Version
BMR Differential Bushings
BMR End Link Mounting Braces
BMR Rear Subframe Connectors
BMR Driveshaft Tunnel Brace
Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop
Pfadt Front and Rear Sway Bars
Pfadt Front and Rear Sway Bar Endlinks

Differential:
3.91 AAM Gear (and yes this is an A6)
LPW Rear Diff Cover
JRE Billet Main Caps
JRE Posi Mod

Dexman1349 · 10-20-2014, 05:30 PM

From the looks of your picture it's too late for my comment: avoid the diff bushings unless you like the noise. It's the one "upgrade" I regret when on the highway.

I would suggest going with the FE4 upgrade (new lower control arms and the wider rear sway bar). What you have is good, but I tore-up my endlinks in no time (and I had basically that exact setup). I just put my stock endlinks back on because the Pfadt ones were failing after 10 months. My next upgrade will be to something like the Detroit Speed FE4 rear swaybars, endlinks, and the newer lower control arms. I tried to upgrade the existing FE3 in an attempt to save money, but in the end it will cost me more.

balla48801 · 10-20-2014, 06:42 PM

All comments are welcome. Ive not installed anything yet. Still have a couple of weeks. Yea i saw the fe4 upgrade afterwards. Kinda got the sway bars and endlinks on a whim. Im probably going to try them out and see how they suite me. The highway noise concerns me though. Is it a squek you hear? Anyone else confirm the bushing noise?

Dexman1349 · 10-21-2014, 11:43 AM

It's a steady whine and gets louder the faster you go. After driving to Utah and back, I've gotten used to it. The big issue is that you can't really undo that mod without replacing the entire diff.

BMR Sales · 10-21-2014, 12:15 PM

Looks like a great bunch of parts to me! The harder durometer differential bushings do transmit more NVH than the stock rubber bushings, that is a fact. The gear whine that Dexman described has probably always been there, but with the harder polyurethane bushings, more of that noise (whine) is now transmitted into the cradle, and subsequently into the rest of the car. As long as your new ring and pinion are set-up correctly, the increase in the noise you hear should be fairly minimal. But it is really based on individual perception, the increase in NVH seems to bother some people and doesn't bother others, so it's really impossible to say whether or not it will be too loud for you or not.

JDP Sales · 10-21-2014, 12:42 PM

Good setup, but Dexman basically took the words out of my mouth. I'm not a fan of differential bushings unless your car see's a lot of time on the strip and the FE3 style bars and links will make noise over time. The rear FE4+ design with a good stiff bar is also much more effective for keeping the rear end in line with each other and making it act more like a solid axle for drag racing.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

bhillakaiceberg · 10-21-2014, 01:03 PM

Nice set-up you got going! I have everything u have, except for I went with the TrueTrac instead of the Posi mod/lpw cover/billet caps when I did my 3.91 gears swap on my L99. As for noise, Im either used to it or I can't hear it. LOL. I have straight pipes with no cats with Cam and headers.

balla48801 · 10-21-2014, 02:26 PM

Road noise i can handle. I have headers, no cats or mufflers. That should drown out most of that noise. I usually listen to music while driving too. I was afraid you were talking about squeking from the poly bushings. I forgot to add that i also got the bmr endlink mounting braces to support the lower control arms with the fe3 setup.

I did order a set of Zl1 lower control arms in case I do change to the fe4+ design in the future. They were only 40$ a piece so now would be a good time. I think they work with both fe3 and fe4 setups? Is that all that is needed for the fe4 besides sway bar and endlinks?

Dexman1349 · 10-21-2014, 03:20 PM

The ZL1 lower control arms are compatible with both FE3 and FE4/5 suspensions. The only thing you need to change after that are the sways and endlinks (both sways so they remain matched)

balla48801 · 10-21-2014, 04:09 PM

Thanks good to know. Ill keep my eye out for a good deal. Im focused on getting some zl1 wheels right now.

balla48801 · 12-16-2014, 05:37 PM

Just got my rear subframe back from being powdercoated. Now the fun begins putting it all back together.

Went from this
Name: 20141202_175057.jpg
Views: 158
Size: 114.3 KB

Name: 20141202_175057.jpg
Views: 158
Size: 114.3 KB

To this

Name: 20141216_182152.jpg
Views: 161
Size: 86.4 KB

JDP Sales · 12-16-2014, 05:49 PM

Purdy!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

EM1/SS · 12-16-2014, 07:18 PM

I have the BMR diff bushings and I didn't notice any extra noise when I put them in.

FASTDIESEL · 12-16-2014, 07:28 PM

Looks good. Who did the powder coat?

10-20-2014, 05:20 PM	#1
balla48801 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: May 2014 Location: TN Posts: 36 View My Garage	What am i missing or should do different? Getting excited about getting all my parts in. Going to install as soon as i get my differential done. In the mean time tell me what im missing or should have done different. Im going to do a little drag racing next year but other than that just spirited driving. So far what i have is as follows. 2010 Camaro SS A6 Suspension: Zl1 Lower Control Arms (In case I want to change to FE4 sway bars) BMR Trailing Arms BMR Toe Rods BMR Rear Trailing Arm Outer Bushing BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Kit BMR Rear Cradle Bushings Race Version BMR Differential Bushings BMR End Link Mounting Braces BMR Rear Subframe Connectors BMR Driveshaft Tunnel Brace Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop Pfadt Front and Rear Sway Bars Pfadt Front and Rear Sway Bar Endlinks Differential: 3.91 AAM Gear (and yes this is an A6) LPW Rear Diff Cover JRE Billet Main Caps JRE Posi Mod Attached Images Last edited by balla48801; 12-16-2014 at 05:31 PM.

10-20-2014, 05:30 PM	#2
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	From the looks of your picture it's too late for my comment: avoid the diff bushings unless you like the noise. It's the one "upgrade" I regret when on the highway. I would suggest going with the FE4 upgrade (new lower control arms and the wider rear sway bar). What you have is good, but I tore-up my endlinks in no time (and I had basically that exact setup). I just put my stock endlinks back on because the Pfadt ones were failing after 10 months. My next upgrade will be to something like the Detroit Speed FE4 rear swaybars, endlinks, and the newer lower control arms. I tried to upgrade the existing FE3 in an attempt to save money, but in the end it will cost me more. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

10-21-2014, 11:43 AM	#4
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	It's a steady whine and gets louder the faster you go. After driving to Utah and back, I've gotten used to it. The big issue is that you can't really undo that mod without replacing the entire diff. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

10-21-2014, 01:03 PM	#7
bhillakaiceberg Drives: 2011 2SS/RS & 2017 1SS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,960	Nice set-up you got going! I have everything u have, except for I went with the TrueTrac instead of the Posi mod/lpw cover/billet caps when I did my 3.91 gears swap on my L99. As for noise, Im either used to it or I can't hear it. LOL. I have straight pipes with no cats with Cam and headers. __________________ *2011 Chevrolet Camaro 2SS/RS L99* (1 of 782) 10.78 @125mph ALL MOTOR SBE Built/Tuned by Me 2017 Chevrolet Camaro 1SS Auto 9.29 @144.57mph ALL MOTOR SBE #TEAMGPI Gwatney Performance Innovation

10-21-2014, 03:20 PM	#9
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	The ZL1 lower control arms are compatible with both FE3 and FE4/5 suspensions. The only thing you need to change after that are the sways and endlinks (both sways so they remain matched) __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

10-20-2014, 06:42 PM	#3
balla48801 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: May 2014 Location: TN Posts: 36 View My Garage	All comments are welcome. Ive not installed anything yet. Still have a couple of weeks. Yea i saw the fe4 upgrade afterwards. Kinda got the sway bars and endlinks on a whim. Im probably going to try them out and see how they suite me. The highway noise concerns me though. Is it a squek you hear? Anyone else confirm the bushing noise?

10-21-2014, 12:15 PM	#5
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	Looks like a great bunch of parts to me! The harder durometer differential bushings do transmit more NVH than the stock rubber bushings, that is a fact. The gear whine that Dexman described has probably always been there, but with the harder polyurethane bushings, more of that noise (whine) is now transmitted into the cradle, and subsequently into the rest of the car. As long as your new ring and pinion are set-up correctly, the increase in the noise you hear should be fairly minimal. But it is really based on individual perception, the increase in NVH seems to bother some people and doesn't bother others, so it's really impossible to say whether or not it will be too loud for you or not.

10-21-2014, 12:42 PM	#6
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	Good setup, but Dexman basically took the words out of my mouth. I'm not a fan of differential bushings unless your car see's a lot of time on the strip and the FE3 style bars and links will make noise over time. The rear FE4+ design with a good stiff bar is also much more effective for keeping the rear end in line with each other and making it act more like a solid axle for drag racing. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

10-21-2014, 02:26 PM	#8
balla48801 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: May 2014 Location: TN Posts: 36 View My Garage	Road noise i can handle. I have headers, no cats or mufflers. That should drown out most of that noise. I usually listen to music while driving too. I was afraid you were talking about squeking from the poly bushings. I forgot to add that i also got the bmr endlink mounting braces to support the lower control arms with the fe3 setup. I did order a set of Zl1 lower control arms in case I do change to the fe4+ design in the future. They were only 40$ a piece so now would be a good time. I think they work with both fe3 and fe4 setups? Is that all that is needed for the fe4 besides sway bar and endlinks?

10-21-2014, 04:09 PM	#10
balla48801 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: May 2014 Location: TN Posts: 36 View My Garage	Thanks good to know. Ill keep my eye out for a good deal. Im focused on getting some zl1 wheels right now.

12-16-2014, 05:37 PM	#11
balla48801 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: May 2014 Location: TN Posts: 36 View My Garage	Just got my rear subframe back from being powdercoated. Now the fun begins putting it all back together. Went from this To this

12-16-2014, 05:49 PM	#12
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	Purdy! Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

12-16-2014, 07:18 PM	#13
EM1/SS Drives: 11 2SS/RS M6 vert Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: NSB, FL Posts: 705	I have the BMR diff bushings and I didn't notice any extra noise when I put them in. __________________ LSA supercharger, Borla S-Type cat back, BMR/ Pedders Suspension, Kooks stepped LT's, GM 3.91, and RDP tune.

12-16-2014, 07:28 PM	#14
FASTDIESEL Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 SLP Cosmetics Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: West Tennessee Posts: 382 View My Garage	Looks good. Who did the powder coat? __________________ 13.244 @ 104.91 100% stock (#17). Now - Mike Norris catch can. 245/50/19 Firestone Wingfoot A/S on LT2 black powder coated rims (square). 1 7/8" Speed-Engineering LTH, off road pipes, tune. Now 12.93 @ 109.13.