[BeauRichardson]

Anyone close to maxing out their D1x? i’ve talked to the tuner about it and he wants to try either going air to water or putting some nitrous in-line with the procharger to help cool down the air and obviously get some more power. we would really like to make 1k wheel. We also discussed a meth kit but he isn’t a big fan of meth because if anything goes wrong it could be catastrophic. at least with nitrous we know what we’re getting into. The main issue right now is just how hot the temps are, i can’t remember at this moment, but it’s hot enough to cause pre det and pull timing.

[KingLT1]

What are the temps? Is it actually showing knock in the log or just pulling timing due to reaching a specific IAT temperature?

[rcoe]

With my tune I primarily use meth for cooling. And you can see in the log right when the meth kicks in as the IAT's definitely go down.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

What are the temps? Is it actually showing knock in the log or just pulling timing due to reaching a specific IAT temperature?

as soon as i get to my computer i can check and see what the temps are. But it should just be showing knock. we have it set up to read when knock retard occurs, and the CEL does the blinking thing until it sits for a second which if i’m not mistaken is a symptom of knock

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by rcoe

With my tune I primarily use meth for cooling. And you can see in the log right when the meth kicks in as the IAT's definitely go down.

What pulley are you running and what psi do you see? i think the main reason my guy wants to go with nitrous is because we’re maxed out on blower rpm, but still want to make a good bit more power

[jlaudio11]

Nitrous is good for making power. Not that great at absorbing heat to cool intake charge. If you’re trying to make x amount of power without spinning the blower to a point it’s just pumping heat it makes sense. If you’re not going to slow the blower down nitrous could just make the situation worse.

[Joshinator99]

I went down this road with my old 2.9 Whipple…if your blower is out of steam it’s time for a better blower that will operate at your desired airflow level in a much better efficiency island on the compressor map. I gained 104 WHP using the same pulley combo just by changing the blower to the new 3.0 Whipple. Band aids just don’t cut it in my humble opinion and you’ll be kicking yourself down the road for not just upgrading right now.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I went down this road with my old 2.9 Whipple…if your blower is out of steam it’s time for a better blower that will operate at your desired airflow level in a much better efficiency island on the compressor map. I gained 104 WHP using the same pulley combo just by changing the blower to the new 3.0 Whipple. Band aids just don’t cut it in my humble opinion and you’ll be kicking yourself down the road for not just upgrading right now.

Centri's are different my friend. The Air to Air intercoolers are not as effective at keeping temps from increasing during a pull but they are better at cooling down after a pull. Hence why many use Meth kits to cool the intake charge on a Centri. Rcoe is a good example, I retuned the car to only rely on the meth for cooling. If it fails, the IAT would increase, and it will just pull timing, but the AFR is still safe. Using it that way, the temps are around 40-50 degrees cooler if I remember correctly. Another option is an ICE tank, but that isn't very convenient for the street. The Air to Air craze that Procharger touted for years when competing against Vortech was marketing. Yes it's convenient, no it's the most efficient way to keep temps down. Especially today with the power cars make.

A friends built H/C P1x car is making 822whp @ 14psi and it doesn't knock on E50 with IAT pushing 165. I have 22-23 degrees of timing in it. But then again if the OP has the same size race intercooler, the bigger supercharger is going to produce hotter IAT's pushing another 170whp. With the PD stuff, the IC bricks are also upgraded. I believe the 3.0 has larger bricks than the 2.9.

Moral of the story, Liquid cooling is better at keeping temps down during a hard pull, Air to Air has better recovery time post pull.

[18.2SS.1LE]

Getting detonation and trusting the knock sensors to save the motor is going to break something.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Centri's are different my friend. The Air to Air intercoolers are not as effective at keeping temps from increasing during a pull but they are better at cooling down after a pull. Hence why many use Meth kits to cool the intake charge on a Centri. Rcoe is a good example, I retuned the car to only rely on the meth for cooling. If it fails, the IAT would increase, and it will just pull timing, but the AFR is still safe. Using it that way, the temps are around 40-50 degrees cooler if I remember correctly. Another option is an ICE tank, but that isn't very convenient for the street. The Air to Air craze that Procharger touted for years when competing against Vortech was marketing. Yes it's convenient, no it's the most efficient way to keep temps down. Especially today with the power cars make.

A friends built H/C P1x car is making 822whp @ 14psi and it doesn't knock on E50 with IAT pushing 165. I have 22-23 degrees of timing in it. But then again if the OP has the same size race intercooler, the bigger supercharger is going to produce hotter IAT's pushing another 170whp. With the PD stuff, the IC bricks are also upgraded. I believe the 3.0 has larger bricks than the 2.9.

Moral of the story, Liquid cooling is better at keeping temps down during a hard pull, Air to Air has better recovery time post pull.

Thanks King

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

Getting detonation and trusting the knock sensors to save the motor is going to break something.

FWIW GM setup the LT1 and LT4's along with many other ICE engines to live off the knock sensors. They are literally way over timed from the factory. In the very most optimal conditions you may see commanded timing the rest of the time they are constantly showing KR. The reason why they don't blow up is because the knock sensors and ECM's logic has a much faster response time.

Now the kicker is, if your tuner goes into the tune and starts messing with all that shit by decreasing sensitivity, max retard, zero out burst knock, then you for sure don't want to be seeing any knock in the tune.

[18.2SS.1LE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

FWIW GM setup the LT1 and LT4's along with many other ICE engines to live off the knock sensors. They are literally way over timed from the factory. In the very most optimal conditions you may see commanded timing the rest of the time they are constantly showing KR. The reason why they don't blow up is because the knock sensors and ECM's logic has a much faster response time.

Now the kicker is, if your tuner goes into the tune and starts messing with all that shit by decreasing sensitivity, max retard, zero out burst knock, then you for sure don't want to be seeing any knock in the tune.

I know they live that way stock, but at over 900 whp I don't think I'd want to be seeing any. I would imagine sensitivity is decreased for false knock from headers and whatever else could be causing some noise in that frequency. For it to detect knock, the engine still has to knock first.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

I know they live that way stock, but at over 900 whp I don't think I'd want to be seeing any. I would imagine sensitivity is decreased for false knock from headers and whatever else could be causing some noise in that frequency. For it to detect knock, the engine still has to knock first.

agree!!