05-01-2023, 06:47 PM | #1 |
#938 of 1524
Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 182
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Jack and stand placement
I'm pretty sure this topic has been beat to death already, but I wanted to share how I raise my car to set it on jack stands, and the reason's why I did it this way.
On the back, I put the jack stand and a piece of wood on the mount where the subframe bolts to the body. This is a very strong place since it's where the two parts of the car come together. The red circle is where I put the jack to raise the car up. The mount fits perfectly down into the saddle of the floor jack I was using. Another very strong spot since it's where the body and subframe come together. |
05-01-2023, 07:01 PM | #2 |
#938 of 1524
Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 182
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jack and stand placement on the front
On the front, the red circle is the location on where I put the jack to raise the car up. This is behind the front tire. I had to go in from the side since I was using just a regular 3 ton floor jack, no low profile jack, yet! The subframe bolt is to the left of that red circle. I didnt put the jack there because there seems to be some sheet metal from the car body in that area and I didn't want to bend anything.
The second picture is where I put the jack stand. This point is just forward of where the rack and pinion bolts. This should be good strong place to rest the car. I should have put a board here so as not to scratch anything. The front subframe to body mounting bolt is kind of hidden by the bumper and all that stuff. |
05-02-2023, 08:04 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 372
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https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...ht=jack+stands
3rd post has the stand locations, but as we know, you can alter it if need be. I'd also recommend using a piece of wood for support on those front jack points if possible as it could bend the frame. |
05-02-2023, 10:49 AM | #4 | |
Quote:
The jack stands fit perfectly in that area and zero chance of them slipping out of position. The positions shown for the front stand points on that post are a pain when you are working under it.
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2013 1SS/1LE
Corsa Extreme cat-back, Speed Engineering LT Headers with black ceramic coating, C7 Z06 Front Brake Upgrade, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, BMR Tunnel Brace, Mishimoto Oil Catch Can, MSD Plug Wires, Mishimoto Radiator and Hoses. |
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05-02-2023, 11:15 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 470
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My car ended up going on jack stands often enough that I bought those aluminum pads that bolt on to the pinch welds at the 4 lift spots, only missed those spots and drove a jack stand into rocker panel once, no damage thankfully, so win in my book
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Behind every scratch is a story on what not to do, and my car has a lot of stories.
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05-02-2023, 12:27 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 470
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Actually while on topic of jack points, I have a 2010 SS and my go to jack spot is the beam right under the engine, I have been considering retrofitting a zl1 or z28 belly pan under the engine bay but does anyone know if that would block that spot from being useful? It looks like it covers that beam but if I marked the location with some paint would the pan handle the load or would it crack?
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Behind every scratch is a story on what not to do, and my car has a lot of stories.
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05-02-2023, 01:13 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2012 SS Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Florida
Posts: 406
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I have the pinch weld pads as well. three on both sides. front back and center. work great and makes lifting the car so easy. the middle allows the whole side to go up at the same time. front and rear tires are off the ground. then I can put jack stands on the front and rear pads. had to notch the rocker a little like the front and rear spots so the center pad could go on. no big deal.
just put tires on the car. the tire place used the front and rear pads to lift the car after I pointed them out so now I don't worry as much when I take the car someplace that it has to be lifted, relying on the person putting the car up knows where or not.
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2012 Camaro SS
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05-03-2023, 07:34 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,782
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Quote:
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
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05-03-2023, 07:37 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,782
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I picked up a set of pinch weld pads on here, but I still use the jack points the OP uses because old habits die hard and I know exactly how the car behaves with those jack points. They do come in handy from time to time.
I find that once I have a floor jack under the front crossmember, I can use 6 ton jack stands and reach under the front bumper to locate them on the front cradle without having to get on the ground. I also use a big round rubber pad that covers cup on the floor jack. I think it was $10 for four of them on Amazon. They don't work as well on my high lift floor jack because the cup is smaller. I have pucks that drop in the cup for that. I don't put the jackstand under the cradle bushing because I might need access to that. I have 12 ton stands that are pretty tall and I put a small wood block between them and the frame just behind the rear cradle bushing. I really need a lift but I keep telling myself I am almost done would just have a lift blocking walking space.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. Last edited by CamaroCracka; 05-03-2023 at 07:52 AM. |
05-03-2023, 11:38 AM | #10 |
I also have a set of jack pads from ZL1 Addons.
Using them with my floor jack and placing the stands under the subframe and main chassis connection points. I do this because I swear reading somewhere here that the two front most jacking points shown in the above link are not actually strong enough to use to jack the car up.... Have I been doing this wrong this whole time??
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2013 1SS/1LE
Corsa Extreme cat-back, Speed Engineering LT Headers with black ceramic coating, C7 Z06 Front Brake Upgrade, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, BMR Tunnel Brace, Mishimoto Oil Catch Can, MSD Plug Wires, Mishimoto Radiator and Hoses. |
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05-03-2023, 04:30 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 470
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Dang, might look into how it's mounted a bit more, way I see it, if no major bolts are in the way it might be possible to cut out a hole where jack meets cross member, then be very careful with the jack.
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Behind every scratch is a story on what not to do, and my car has a lot of stories.
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05-03-2023, 06:55 PM | #12 |
Give speed a chance
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 2,280
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Thumbing through the Summit catalog and found this. AGM Jackrod. Locks in place on your floor jack. Obviously it's for one wheel removal or if you're sliding under for some quick projects. $100-150 at various internet sites. Seems like it would work good at pinch weld location. Might be good for track day maintenance between sessions.
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2LS: a TREMENDOUS machine. Z/28: it's a BIT MORE POWERFUL, of course.
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05-03-2023, 08:19 PM | #13 | |
#938 of 1524
Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 182
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Quote:
I read the same thing you did somewhere myself. To me, after looking at the car in those spots, I wouldn't use them as jacking points. |
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05-04-2023, 07:40 AM | #14 |
Drives: 68 Nova SS 2013 Camaro 2SS RS Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Mayfield, Penna.
Posts: 69
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Hi
Found this also
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