[Greg83]

The lack of tire spin is the best way for me to describe the lack of power… maybe I’m crazy but the car just doesn’t seem to pull as hard as even the 2019 manual M6 car I test drove but that was over a year ago…

The bypass screw has a solid chunk of blue loctite on it, if I move that screw it will be very obvious… don’t want to touch that until the dealer looks at it. Like mentioned above, maybe I should buy and learn how to use an OBD2 meter that would probably provide a lot of useful info.

After getting another pea size air bubble or two out of the supercharger system I drove the car again today. Hard to say if the power feels any better but I was able to get another 1-2 psi of boost on my gauge. I’d say close to 9.5 PSI. I’ll keep bleeding it after every drive, or buy that bleeder tool and let it run for a while.

Worst case scenario I could probably bring the car to Nickey Camaro of Chicago but they are probably 90 minutes away and probably need my car for a few days so that’s not very convenient…

[WhiteMale]

As long as the screw stop is against the arm you should be OK that means it's closed, I've seen pics of cars that looked like a large gap and if I'm not mistaken that's the problem.

[RobZL1]

Hit that little traction control button and see if you get tire spin. Watch out for ditches and curbs, though.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Hit that little traction control button and see if you get tire spin. Watch out for ditches and curbs, though.

Yeah, just a little tire spin from a 3000 RPM pull in second gear. I remember the manual M6 car I test drove a few years ago getting sideways at like 70-80 mph in third gear when doing pulls… Maybe I just need more RPM’s but I feel I’m pretty much in the torque curve of the supercharger. I’ll rev it more after break-in.
I email “Nicky Camaro” today and they agreed to dyno my car when I’m ready (wanna get some more break-in miles). Then I’ll know for sure what my power level is, and it will be kind of cool to have some REAL numbers for my car. I don’t want to tune the car or negate my warranty but I assume they can plug into my car and make sure it’s not pulling timing, check temps, air/fuel mixture and boost, among other things and see just how my car is running. Interesting info to have. Before I go to that level we’ll see if the dealer can find anything when they do the first/free oil change.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

As long as the screw stop is against the arm you should be OK that means it's closed, I've seen pics of cars that looked like a large gap and if I'm not mistaken that's the problem.

Yes, it closes tight enough to hold a thin sheet of paper, and clicks closed when the paper is pulled out. Thanks for the tip!

[Greg83]

Maybe I’m just crazy but at least if I get it dyno’d, I’ll know for sure either way…lol

[RobZL1]

Sounds like a plan! And yes, Matt will be able to log the pulls and see exactly what's happening with timing, MAT, etc. And can throw a wideband on there to see how rich yours is from the factory.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Yeah, just a little tire spin from a 3000 RPM pull in second gear. I remember the manual M6 car I test drove a few years ago getting sideways at like 70-80 mph in third gear when doing pulls… Maybe I just need more RPM’s but I feel I’m pretty much in the torque curve of the supercharger. I’ll rev it more after break-in.
I email “Nicky Camaro” today and they agreed to dyno my car when I’m ready (wanna get some more break-in miles). Then I’ll know for sure what my power level is, and it will be kind of cool to have some REAL numbers for my car. I don’t want to tune the car or negate my warranty but I assume they can plug into my car and make sure it’s not pulling timing, check temps, air/fuel mixture and boost, among other things and see just how my car is running. Interesting info to have. Before I go to that level we’ll see if the dealer can find anything when they do the first/free oil change.

I know you are in the break-in window but I would just find an on-ramp and wind out 2nd and 3rd gear. You should hit about 83mph in 2nd and around 113mph at the top the 3rd. Put it in sport mode and leave traction control on. Put your foot to the floor and let er rip. Remember, the gearing is much taller in the ZL1 M6 so you will notice the power difference when you can keep your foot in it and let the supercharger run our those tall gears.

Another thing you can do is use the built in 0-60 or 1/4 mile timer. You basically hit 60mph in 1st gear in the ZL1 so just try to launch it and see it you can get around 4 sec. My ZL1 A10 would typically do the 1/4 mile in the 11.5 sec timeframe using the built in timer. See if you can beat 12.0 in the M6.

Here is a probably the best POV video for another ZL1 M6.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Sounds like a plan! And yes, Matt will be able to log the pulls and see exactly what's happening with timing, MAT, etc. And can throw a wideband on there to see how rich yours is from the factory.

Sounds like what I’m looking for. Thanks!

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by raptor5244

I know you are in the break-in window but I would just find an on-ramp and wind out 2nd and 3rd gear. You should hit about 83mph in 2nd and around 113mph at the top the 3rd. Put it in sport mode and leave traction control on. Put your foot to the floor and let er rip. Remember, the gearing is much taller in the ZL1 M6 so you will notice the power difference when you can keep your foot in it and let the supercharger run our those tall gears.

Another thing you can do is use the built in 0-60 or 1/4 mile timer. You basically hit 60mph in 1st gear in the ZL1 so just try to launch it and see it you can get around 4 sec. My ZL1 A10 would typically do the 1/4 mile in the 11.5 sec timeframe using the built in timer. See if you can beat 12.0 in the M6.

Here is a probably the best POV video for another ZL1 M6.

Yes, I just want to keep it under 4000 RPM for the first 500 miles per the performance break-in period. If something is wrong with the car and Chevy happens to dig into the ECU I don’t want anything outside the manufacturer recommended break-in. I don’t want to give them any reason to deny any warranty work.

All I know is my A10 ZL1 and the manual M6 car I drove a couple years ago we’re both scary fast. I’d say this car is just fast. Maybe I’m just expecting to much but I’ll get it dyno’d just to be sure. I’ll let you guys know when I get the results. Thanks everyone for all the good info!!!!

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by SHE'Z 18

Hey OP / All,
Here’s a good video I found regarding bleeding air from the system. I purchased this fitting and plan to perform this process this year myself.

https://youtu.be/9I4m-BP0Gsw

And another one showing the same process, but without the special fitting

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MMphi_3xgCc

Hey Shez’18, if you decide to bleed the brass plugs I would make sure to have your main bleeder open/depressed, with fluid in it ready to flow in and replace any fluid or air that comes out of the brass bleeders, otherwise you might create an air pocket or just decrease your fluid level.

[SHE'Z 18]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Hey Shez’18, if you decide to bleed the brass plugs I would make sure to have your main bleeder open/depressed, with fluid in it ready to flow in and replace any fluid or air that comes out of the brass bleeders, otherwise you might create an air pocket or just decrease your fluid level.

Excellent advice. Thanks Greg. Did you end up bleeding your system yet? If so, any other tips/advice?

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by SHE'Z 18

Excellent advice. Thanks Greg. Did you end up bleeding your system yet? If so, any other tips/advice?

Ha, yes, I’ve bled it several times per the track bleed video you were watching. I got a few pea size bubbles out. I’ve been bleeding it before and after almost every drive. I do it on my inclined driveway and have even jacked the drivers side front of the car up to induce more air to travel to that bleeder port. I just use a 1” I/D hose, a clamp, a funnel and some distilled water. I use a long 3/8” extension to depress the bleeder valve. I’ve done it with the car hot and with it cold… I’m trying everything… LOL. I even bled those brass plugs once.

[Greg83]

So I noticed today while doing a couple pulls that my boost gauge would go up to approx 9.5 PSI and hold there but as my RPM’s climbed closer to 4000 RPM’s, the gauge would start to fluctuate and drop like 2 PSI, and then jump back to 9.5 PSI. Certainly seems like there might be more air in the system. I will keep purge bleeding it. If I buy the adapter to bleed it into a two liter bottle, how long do I let the car run with that adapter and bottle attached?