[95 imp]

Hard to say...

To me, it looks sus on the piston about 4 o'clock, also some dots below and right of the "L", thru the fuel bowl (although that should be a cooler spot and near the flame starting point), and on the upper edge of the pop up on the top.

My suggestion would be to get some carb cleaner and get the carbon off. Use a rag so you don't mar the surface.

What will happen is we will get a "negative" look. The low spots will have carbon stuck in them and the flat spots will be clean. Also, carbon might be hiding something.

I don't see anything in the pics sticking out on the head. I'd think if there was anything there it would be around the exhaust valve more than the intake.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Word to the wise. If u blow the front seal. Its not from lack of crankcase ventilation. Its from blow by 99% of the time on a stock motor from broke ring land. Compression is getting by the piston pressurizing the crankcase. Extra venting is not needed and not the problem.

In a way the front seal is kind of like a fuse letting you know their is a problem. very flimsily but adequate. Might even be a bad idea to replace it with the ls3 version.

Heres what mine looked after blowing the front seal.

Disagree

Venting crank case pressure is important under boost. Running higher octane on a high compression engine is important under boost. Correct AFR and timing is very important under boost.

The failure was a result of too much boost for the octane used combined with too lean of a AFR.

I have been running Forced Induction on my SBE LT1 for almost 4yrs. 9-11psi, 10k miles, 100+ dragy pulls ranging from 0-60,0-100, 1/8, and 1/4mi. If it let's go this year then no biggie...it's served me well at this point. This car is smiles per gallon so it sees a lot of WOT when I get it out.

This isn't "lucky"...I believe I took the necessary steps to put a combination together that would last for a while. And that started with spending the money on a fuel system that would support running Ethanol. 93 octane is the biggest mistake right out of the gate. 93 octane isn't really enough for these Engines NA Hence why they gain 25-30whp by converting over to E85 on stock motor. Imo If you want to run 93 then lower the compression. There is very little wiggle room for error with 93 as Josh mentioned. Switch to Ethanol and you just widened that window for error significantly.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Disagree

Venting crank case pressure is important under boost. Running higher octane on a high compression engine is important under boost. Correct AFR and timing is very important under boost.

The failure was a result of too much boost for the octane used combined with too lean of a AFR.

This isn't "lucky"...it's proper understanding on knowing what these engines need to live under boost. 93 octane is the biggest mistake right out of the gate. If you want to run 93 then lower the compression. There is very little wiggle room for error with 93 and 11 psi. Switch to Ethanol and you just widened that window for error significantly.

I agree with you 100%.

When you're overloading pistons/components, you need to make sure that there are no errors. Hell, even if everything is nuts on, you can still break'em because they are doing something they weren't designed to do.
EX. Overheating the pistons can soften them up over time and lead to failure.
They are cast pistons when they should really be forged units.

My thought for having the "weaker" LT seal would be an external visual that you have an internal problem vs causing more damage by running a cracked piston and not knowing until a rod gets air mailed.

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Disagree

Venting crank case pressure is important under boost. Running higher octane on a high compression engine is important under boost. Correct AFR and timing is very important under boost.

The failure was a result of too much boost for the octane used combined with too lean of a AFR.

I have been running Forced Induction on my SBE LT1 for almost 4yrs. 9-11psi, 10k miles, 100+ dragy pulls ranging from 0-60,0-100, 1/8, and 1/4mi. If it let's go this year then no biggie...it's served me well at this point. This car is smiles per gallon so it sees a lot of WOT when I get it out.

This isn't "lucky"...I believe I took the necessary steps to put a combination together that would last for a while. And that started with spending the money on a fuel system that would support running Ethanol. 93 octane is the biggest mistake right out of the gate. 93 octane isn't really enough for these Engines NA Hence why they gain 25-30whp by converting over to E85 on stock motor. Imo If you want to run 93 then lower the compression. There is very little wiggle room for error with 93 as Josh mentioned. Switch to Ethanol and you just widened that window for error significantly.

100% support King, at 11.5 to 1 SBE LT1 on any kind of boost should either run race gas or an ethanol blend if it hopes to live a while. 93 just does not cut it. That small window of error on 93 s no joke. A cold front could swing temperatures and that dense air would tip the balance of a 93 tune that was already on the edge of a knife to begin with .

[Kerry]

Well I have run 1.8 4 cylinder engines for quite a few years since year 2000. 8 to 10 pds boost at 11.5 to 1 with a 12 thou top ring gap. At a point too much compression on 93 will hurt performance and you will start going backwards. I have also detoed that motor till it seized a piston because at 19 pds it was making less power than it did at 8 pds. So I kept adding timing to get power up. Deto swells pistons first and with the stock clearance I would thing that would be one of the first things to happen. Its always hard to say. I will say this I have stuck and seized more pistons in my day then most I would say.

To much timing will most likley show in the middle of a piston and the spark plug from deto. Lean will show on the top sides edges more. The op was way lean for sure. His knock sensor was pulling alot of timing. The motor was not (happy) for sure. Did that break his ring land, Maybe but probly not as like i say stock motors have broken ring lands. Did they deto i think not.

This platform is different from what Im used to but I have run e85, pure meth up to 10% nitro turning the little 1.8 from 7700 stock all the way to over 30pds and 9800. Won a bunch of races and even world championships. Broke a bunch of motors along the way. thats part of it when u push that hard.

I hope no one has problems, Is it better to have a great safe tune YES!!! no question.

I have had 2 2019 camaros one 25000 or so no broke ring lands ran the dog shit out of it. seen lots of knock retard over those miles. It seized a rod with no damage at all to any pistons in it.

Had and still have the vert. over 20000 on it now makeing about 700 or so with meth. Broke number 2 ring land. All rods and bearings grate shape. So I do have some first hand experience.

My advice put forged pistons in a camaro period. Will the stock cast last? sure they can no doubt. But I think its luck of the draw. The vert had a great tune 11.7 mostly and no knock retard showing and still brok the number 2 at around 600 rw. Thats both banks monitored btw

[ZO6Ted]

Side question... been running 0-20 mob 1 syn for 55k mi on 7.5 lbs. Just switched to 5-30. Should I run something else? It's my DD in 105 deg heat at times. Thanks.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 95 imp

I agree with you 100%.

When you're overloading pistons/components, you need to make sure that there are no errors. Hell, even if everything is nuts on, you can still break'em because they are doing something they weren't designed to do.
EX. Overheating the pistons can soften them up over time and lead to failure.
They are cast pistons when they should really be forged units.

My thought for having the "weaker" LT seal would be an external visual that you have an internal problem vs causing more damage by running a cracked piston and not knowing until a rod gets air mailed.

Originally Posted by 1LEornothing

100% support King, at 11.5 to 1 SBE LT1 on any kind of boost should either run race gas or an ethanol blend if it hopes to live a while. 93 just does not cut it. That small window of error on 93 s no joke. A cold front could swing temperatures and that dense air would tip the balance of a 93 tune that was already on the edge of a knife to begin with .

[Crazy Drywall Guy]

Well the motor is back in and running. Went with Texas speed drop in,Blower Cam set up which I won't name and ended up getting rid of my first tuner, waiting 5 weeks for another tuner to even get me a 'startup' tune. Decided to go with Phoenix performance Calibration and he was able to get me up and going pretty quickly. Got a couple hundred miles on it and the thing pulls like a train.

[asthmamax11]

F**k
Reading this thread makes me not want to push my setup any further

So 10k miles without breaking on a boosted setup is considered good ?
Lol

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

F**k
Reading this thread makes me not want to push my setup any further

So 10k miles without breaking on a boosted setup is considered good ?
Lol

Upgrade your fueling and run some E. You’ll make more power AND give your SBE LT1 a better chance at survival.

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Upgrade your fueling and run some E. You’ll make more power AND give your SBE LT1 a better chance at survival.

I support this post 100%, thank you Josh, king, et all.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by 1LEornothing

I support this post 100%, thank you Josh, king, et all.

[2SS Capt]

Pushing the LT1 well beyond it's design specs is a recipe for trouble... If you want 650+ HP you probably should have bought the ZL1 with the LT4...

[Puddin]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

F**k
Reading this thread makes me not want to push my setup any further

So 10k miles without breaking on a boosted setup is considered good ?
Lol

Between the big 3 if boost was your main goal the Coyote is the only really good choice out of the box.