[FlukeSS]

Got to test out these Nitto 555R2's. 305/35R20

Temperature Range: 45-50 degrees F
DA Range: -280 to 300

[KC64]

^^^ Sounds very nice!

[wnta1ss]

Hmm, no feedback yet on the runs? IMO a 1.86 short time on drag radials, with ECM/TCM tune and quite a bit more hp than stock, was quite noticeably slower than I'd expect. Did not sound like you spun to get that 60? Not sure what is happening, but I would suggest trying launch from idle next time, and see if it's any better.

Since you were data logging, you probably already know this, but your current TCM tune had the WOT shifts at too low an rpm for best performance. Looking at your 11.6 run, the shift was way too early for the 1>2, too early for the 2>3, and still a little early for the 3>4 and 4>5. Your dyno chart had peak hp around 6200, and therefore, you could try for about 6700 for your shifts and see what it does. This is drag racer knowledge for many years, shifting around 500rpm after the hp peak for best performance. Might want even more than 6700 in this thing to be honest, but that would be a decent start IMO.

[jlaudio11]

I know the btr cam is going to lose a little torque down low from a stock cam but it kind of seems like torque management is still limiting torque on the initial hit, shift rpm does seem low as well. The Mustang dyno numbers don’t really match the et and mph imo. Why such cold spark plugs? Those are what I run on my turbo setup now. My car is lighter being an LT1 vs a 2SS and I am on a drag pack front and rear but my car went a lot quicker and faster with less. https://youtu.be/lUEOPs5Qzxw?si=lE2jJS6y9ovm4E79

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Hmm, no feedback yet on the runs? IMO a 1.86 short time on drag radials, with ECM/TCM tune and quite a bit more hp than stock, was quite noticeably slower than I'd expect. Did not sound like you spun to get that 60? Not sure what is happening, but I would suggest trying launch from idle next time, and see if it's any better.

Since you were data logging, you probably already know this, but your current TCM tune had the WOT shifts at too low an rpm for best performance. Looking at your 11.6 run, the shift was way too early for the 1>2, too early for the 2>3, and still a little early for the 3>4 and 4>5. Your dyno chart had peak hp around 6200, and therefore, you could try for about 6700 for your shifts and see what it does. This is drag racer knowledge for many years, shifting around 500rpm after the hp peak for best performance. Might want even more than 6700 in this thing to be honest, but that would be a decent start IMO.

Stock Torque Converter. Laynlow15 said the cam may actually slow down my 60 ft and to try to launch from idle instead of brake torqueing to flash the torque converter. My tuner also said I'm using too low of a tire pressure as well that I want to be about 20 psi warm. Just to be clear I was told the cam tops out at 7000 rpm. I know subsequent shifts are about 6500. But I do notice what you said that the shifts 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are lower. I'll ask my tuner about it see what he says. Also, my tuner is using an older version of HP Tuners and couldn't open my logs to check the tune. I have to do a new set of logs on his version of HP Tuners, but I do intend on having the tuner check the tune to make sure it is running the way he believes it should. But as I said to JLAudio: I'm still new to this so maybe I am just not experienced enough to where I should be pulling the numbers other people get with a similar or worse setup. My fastest time on street tires Eagle SC3's was 11.9, which while it is below 12, it took me a long time to get there, and that was after adding the LT2 and TB. I know its not as good as some people with less. Although to be fair I'm not a small guy either. 240lbs not like other people you see in youtube videos whom weigh maybe 50-70lbs less than me.

Originally Posted by jlaudio11

I know the btr cam is going to lose a little torque down low from a stock cam but it kind of seems like torque management is still limiting torque on the initial hit, shift rpm does seem low as well. The Mustang dyno numbers don’t really match the et and mph imo. Why such cold spark plugs? Those are what I run on my turbo setup now. My car is lighter being an LT1 vs a 2SS and I am on a drag pack front and rear but my car went a lot quicker and faster with less. https://youtu.be/lUEOPs5Qzxw?si=lE2jJS6y9ovm4E79

Also, my front tire size is too small. 275/30R20 so it is effecting my Traction Control, ABS, and power steering. Just picked up some 285/35R20's for the front and readjusted the tire size in the ECM. And of course I'm not on a full drag pack with skinnies up front either. You also have drag slicks. I am not running slicks. 555R2's are dot compliant street drag radials. Think MT street SS but slightly worse and better in water. Looks like you also have a 17" wheel maybe? So you have more meat on the back end in terms of tire wrinkle on launch. And lastly based on your signature history, it looks like you probably are just more experienced at drag racing than I am. I have maybe 40 runs under my belt in the last 2 years.

Going this coming Sunday, will try again see if anything changes.

[FlukeSS]

@wnta1ss and @jlaudio11

Please don't take what I said as me making excuses or being angry or retaliatory. I appreciate the advice when given. I am just not experienced enough to discount anything anyone says is the way I look at it.

I've just been talking to laynlow15 a lot about my car so he knows more about what is going on with it than anyone on here, and he has said the same things you guys have said. So it is at least common consensus that I should be faster but for some reason I am not.

Just haven't figured out if I am the problem, or if its the car yet. I assume its not the car its me, because I just don't know that much about drag performance other than numbers I see. I assume its a me problem, unless one of you guys suggest there might be some play left in the car still. And what I can do to remedy the issue either way.

[jlaudio11]

Atleast you have the right attitude about it all. With launching, what worked the best for me and what you saw in those videos was holding rpms up around 900-1000 rpm and then smashing it. You’ll get some flash out of the converter like launching from idle, I just felt like there was a little bit of a delay that cost et going from absolute idle. See what your tuner thinks but there are others of us here that could look at your log and give feedback. That can get tricky where you’re almost questioning your tuner and everybody will have different possible suggestions, it could get messy basically.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

@wnta1ss and @jlaudio11

Please don't take what I said as me making excuses or being angry or retaliatory. I appreciate the advice when given. I am just not experienced enough to discount anything anyone says is the way I look at it.

I've just been talking to laynlow15 a lot about my car so he knows more about what is going on with it than anyone on here, and he has said the same things you guys have said. So it is at least common consensus that I should be faster but for some reason I am not.

Just haven't figured out if I am the problem, or if its the car yet. I assume its not the car its me, because I just don't know that much about drag performance other than numbers I see. I assume its a me problem, unless one of you guys suggest there might be some play left in the car still. And what I can do to remedy the issue either way.

I was trying to help and from your response, I believe you do understand that. I think you can try altering your technique and see if times improve, but the timeslip tells me the car itself is not right, so there's only so much you can do. For some perspective, with a similar-size driver at the time, I ran my partial-bolt-on A8 SS in street trim (old 275 PS4S tires on back). Partial-bolt-on means intake manifold/zr1 tb/cai/flex fuel/tuning ecm and tcm/scoop. Similar DA to your run, went 11.56@122, spinning all the way through first (1.91 short) and even hit the rev limiter in 1st. Now my street-trim was behind your slip by .05 at the 60 yet catches up and beats the ET by .11sec? That points to a problem with your tune as far as I'm concerned. Yours should easily have 50rwhp more than mine did, therefore it should be pulling harder. I agree with jlaudio11 that your tcm tune *might not* have the torque tables fixed like they should be. Can you read the tune? I know with my 2017 T87a, you could only 'read' a generic stock TCM tune from HPT back in the day (not read the actual modded TCM tune in the car), not sure what happens with the T93? However you can read the ECM tune, is that correct? There are some things in the ECM tune which should be checked as part of the shift-point adjustments. I have personally seen a dyno-tuned car, by a good-reputation guy, and it turns out he did not correct the EOT table for the rev limiter. Meaning the 6800rpm he had for extreme cutoff was over-ridden by the stock 6600rpm figure in the EOT table, and the limiter engaged before desired. Having the throttle close during a dragstrip run is counter productive.

As far as the cam giving a softer leave, I have seen video of a Stage 3 cam going 1.72 short on the stock SS A10 torque converter. Since your Stage 1 *should* have less of a torque loss way down low than a Stage 3, I would think that yours should be a little bit snappier at the hit than his was?

[OB0001]

ran a 11.85 @117 on run flats last summer @ Milan run flats LT2 intake some bolt on's tune E85. wheel slip all the way down the track