How does my dyno sheet look?

[07-SRT]

Originally Posted by rontammy0

Ya i picked up 20 ft lbs torque in that range i think. What do you think of the first run..thats the old tune.

Was the last dyno sheet same dyno and STD correction factor? Just asking because depending on the weather condition uncorrected, STD and SAE can make a big diffrence in your numbers.

[christianchevell]

Well your sheet........ not so good IMO....the correction factor is in STD standard no one uses the correct correction factor is SAE as STD can inflate things, the graph has smoothing not good for showing maybe problematic areas to look closer at in the tune as its being adjusted without smoothing that's for sure hopefully and smoothing due to averaging things out can actually cost you couple HP let alone its being a Dynojet and most likely not a heart breaker like a Mustang dyno...LOL And I cant tell WTF is going on with the AFR..? but its seeming ok?

SO IMO; its kind of like they like to inflate egos a little for $ or they don't know wtf they are doing that well....Sorry they might not even have a weather station attached for the correction factor.... Heres a pic of one my old dynos on my first engine it comes out better in the ink just so you can compare..... and my second engine ... Tommy Wongs was a double degree electrical engineer first before he got into running a speed shop. He does what is accurate with the Mustang and Chevys hardware and software the dealer has and Hp tuning. And he has regular dyno maintenance and calibration with weather station attached to the system on the roof. He does not give smoothed or STD printouts...


heres the second not such a good copy ink was low and the sensor did not get kicked on for the O2 for the afr until late in the print..



I scribbled on it comparing average torque/HP and it netted me gains where I wanted it in the torque and where I drive with a milder cam from stroking it, some day I will go big again yet its all about the $ and dyno tunes I know don't come cheap from him...$550 range and a waiting list months out sometimes especially for engine work..

SO IMO your low, the thing is just for comparisons but with your mods what you put down to the rear wheels could be much different than what one dyno says unfortunately not all dynos or especially operators are created equal. But it is a place to start for mods, and hopefully they don't charge you too much.....

STD was a correction factor just using Detroit Michigan numbers I of its temp at like 60 and elevation and etc and usually comes out about 4-5% more than SAE society of automotive engineers from what I know. Let alone load bearing versus non load bearing.....dynos are all different; and the difference between them and what they are trying to achieve with the calibration of the dyno if its more mustang heart breaker load bearing calibration or .... calibrated to what ever...LOL



Basically reading up on dynos has in a way been enlightening and annoying LOL but its all in what you know and what they have that one measurement device set too.... its not like the things are all set the same..... but maybe these can tell you a little. Merry Christmas, and whats in a dyno number....? a whole lot of calculating HP off of torque what moves you..........

You see on my dynos that the second engine a stroker with a much milder cam I went for torque which I got from 3000 to 5000 area in a plateau of power and it starts off about 50 ft lb more from the get go and the average Hp and Torque increase all across the board but the loss of a top end number for HP is due to cam design as I did have a .639/.623 lift 235/239 112 lsa TSP cam and went down to a 114+4 LSA .613/.578 with like 224/235 from Cammotion for ease on the valve train until I can afford a cash infusion to ls7 small bore heads , intake new ls7 headers , 102 etc.....

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by 07-SRT

Was the last dyno sheet same dyno and STD correction factor? Just asking because depending on the weather condition uncorrected, STD and SAE can make a big diffrence in your numbers.

The first dyno tune was done on a dinomite dyno and I never got a printout. Im not sure about std and sae.

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by 2010reddevil

Old tune doesn't look bad either. Looks like new tune just improved everywhere the old one was lacking a bit. I'm telling you, a 4k stall, good tires and a good day of air coupled with a tune tweaked for those long tubes should have you running 12.1x to 11.9x.

Hope so.....

[xc_SS/RS]

yep, thats a dynosheet for sure! lol

on a semi-serious note: are you going to dyno again after LT's and a tune update?

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

yep, thats a dynosheet for sure! lol

on a semi-serious note: are you going to dyno again after LT's and a tune update?

Yes i am...plus I will have some slips from the track in the spring to compare .

[acammer]

Feeling better than a few months ago?

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by acammer

Feeling better than a few months ago?

Yes.....cant wait for the longtubes and a improved trans tune to see how it runs at the track. I picked up almost 3 mph up top with just from him improving the tune. He didnt do the improved trans tune because it wss raining that day. I need to hold off my buddies 5.0 lol.

[Pro Stock John]

Looks good to me, what is your mods list these days?

I did 367rwhp with:
1.75 Kooks, cats
Stock exhaust
CAI air box
Tune
PTB

+ rod mod intake, 3200 converter, 17x7 fronts, 18x10.5 NT05R rears, went 12.06 with traction issues. Plus 3.91 went 11.84 1.59. I can tell you what I'd change to go 11.7's.

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Looks good to me, what is your mods list these days?

I did 367rwhp with:
1.75 Kooks, cats
Stock exhaust
CAI air box
Tune
PTB

+ rod mod intake, 3200 converter, 17x7 fronts, 18x10.5 NT05R rears, went 12.06 with traction issues. Plus 3.91 went 11.84 1.59. I can tell you what I'd change to go 11.7's.

John ive been racking my brains trying to get into low 12s . Im with shorty headers..cai....ptb....3200 circle d stall with 391s on nitto 555r 305 with a 1.8 sixty as my best. My new tuner redid my tune and helped get almost 3 mph top. He says my trans tune only had my line pressure increasd and nothing else. My last trip to the track hasnt i included his trans tune as the weather was bad. We both decided to wait for better weather because he wants good traction and needs quite a bit if time with the car.. A few car guys in know tell me im maxed out with my stock cam but i dont believe it. They are a little old school.....any tips would be great John. My buddy with the 5.0 now traps 117 and runs 12.5 with alot of traction issues. He weighs about 140lbs but struts around now like hes 240 lol. Im hoping my new 1 7/8 catted stainless power longtubes help. I dont car about the dyno number....im looking at track numbers.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by rontammy0

John ive been racking my brains trying to get into low 12s . Im with shorty headers..cai....ptb....3200 circle d stall with 391s on nitto 555r 305 with a 1.8 sixty as my best. My new tuner redid my tune and helped get almost 3 mph top. He says my trans tune only had my line pressure increasd and nothing else. My last trip to the track hasnt i included his trans tune as the weather was bad. We both decided to wait for better weather because he wants good traction and needs quite a bit if time with the car.. A few car guys in know tell me im maxed out with my stock cam but i dont believe it. They are a little old school.....any tips would be great John. My buddy with the 5.0 now traps 117 and runs 12.5 with alot of traction issues. He weighs about 140lbs but struts around now like hes 240 lol. Im hoping my new 1 7/8 catted stainless power longtubes help. I dont car about the dyno number....im looking at track numbers.

Long tubes should help. It should be leaving harder with converter and gear, I would think, than a 1.8 60'. Is that on a 20" wheel or smaller? Is it struggling to spin the tires, or just blowing them off.

You're not gonna catch the Coyote on the back half, you've gotta do all your work on the first half and make him try to run you down. What did you get your trap speed up to? I recall it was pretty terrible, and attributed to the tune.

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by acammer

Long tubes should help. It should be leaving harder with converter and gear, I would think, than a 1.8 60'. Is that on a 20" wheel or smaller? Is it struggling to spin the tires, or just blowing them off.

You're not gonna catch the Coyote on the back half, you've gotta do all your work on the first half and make him try to run you down. What did you get your trap speed up to? I recall it was pretty terrible, and attributed to the tune.

If i just load up the converter it seems to hook better then if i try to stall higher rpm. It blows the tires when I do that.. I went from 107.3 to 109.8 mph. Running that coyote I trapped 107...108. If i can trap 112 to 113 I think thats enough to hold him off. Like I said my trans tune isnt updated so that with the longtubes hopefully really helps.

[2010reddevil]

You really shoulda went 2" on those headers. They make the most power everywhere vs any other. That stall you have is helping you out vs stock, but you really should be using a 4k stall running n/a. Get those issues addressed and traction will be your next problem.Be glad you aren't a TR6060 car...........talk about traction issues!!!

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by 2010reddevil

You really shoulda went 2" on those headers. They make the most power everywhere vs any other. That stall you have is helping you out vs stock, but you really should be using a 4k stall running n/a. Get those issues addressed and traction will be your next problem.Be glad you aren't a TR6060 car...........talk about traction issues!!!

Well then theres the cam im thinking of.....