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Old 01-05-2018, 09:10 PM   #29
2010reddevil

 
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I still can't believe you only cut a 1.8 60ft. You should be able to nail a 1.6 or 1.7 at least! Maybe some rear suspension is in order.
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rontammy0 View Post
Well then theres the cam im thinking of.....
If you are gonna cam it, then you really need a higher stall as it will move your tq peak up even higher. 2" headers will also make that cam really shine.
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12.3 @ 112 ACM as of 12/22/19
Gone on 12/28/19 R I P

2010 2SS 6M Victory Red/Black (old ride)
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12.6 @ 115 SAR as of 9/19/15
Gone but never forgotten.
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:29 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by 2010reddevil View Post
I still can't believe you only cut a 1.8 60ft. You should be able to nail a 1.6 or 1.7 at least! Maybe some rear suspension is in order.
Gossip squirrel made me notice in a vid he posted that im not heating up the tires as much as i should. Im only doing my burnout about half the time i should be. They are 20 inch on my stock rims. Im going to drop the pressure down to 17 psi to start next trip to the track. I had them at 19 or 20.
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Old 01-06-2018, 07:30 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by rontammy0 View Post
If i just load up the converter it seems to hook better then if i try to stall higher rpm. It blows the tires when I do that.. I went from 107.3 to 109.8 mph. Running that coyote I trapped 107...108. If i can trap 112 to 113 I think thats enough to hold him off. Like I said my trans tune isnt updated so that with the longtubes hopefully really helps.
Sounds like you're making better power with the retune as evident by the trap speed, that's great. I'm not sure bolt ons will carry you up to that 113mph range, you're fighting a smaller cam and more driveline loss than an LS3 car, and that's about where they trap. You might make that number in super good air, but in the real world of 1000-2000'+ DA, you probably won't see it.

Getting the shift points dialed in should help. What do you mean by "just load the converter up" vs "stall higher rpm"? Do you mean if you flash it (hit it hard by stabbing the throttle from just off idle) it blows the tires off, but if you hold the revs up and let it roll off the brake as you roll in throttle it hooks?
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Old 01-06-2018, 07:31 AM   #33
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I also just noticed 20" wheels, I think we need to manage our 60' expectations with those tiny sidewalls.
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Old 01-06-2018, 08:54 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
Sounds like you're making better power with the retune as evident by the trap speed, that's great. I'm not sure bolt ons will carry you up to that 113mph range, you're fighting a smaller cam and more driveline loss than an LS3 car, and that's about where they trap. You might make that number in super good air, but in the real world of 1000-2000'+ DA, you probably won't see it.

Getting the shift points dialed in should help. What do you mean by "just load the converter up" vs "stall higher rpm"? Do you mean if you flash it (hit it hard by stabbing the throttle from just off idle) it blows the tires off, but if you hold the revs up and let it roll off the brake as you roll in throttle it hooks?
Yes...flashing it seems not to spin as much. 1.8 sixty that way. But if i foot brake it hold the revs .....yes it blows the tires off. Once the car is dialed in with the longtubes and trans tune im going to lower the tire pressure to 16 or 17 psi.....do a way longer burnout. I think my car will sixty ft better doing that and foot braking it to launch at a higher rpm. Yes 20 inch drag radials....cam in the future but not for a while
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:39 PM   #35
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So what is your best et and mph at the moment?

20" 555Rs, I only went 1.85 on those. They need a long burnout. I do paddle shift burnouts with DRs.
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Old 01-08-2018, 05:46 PM   #36
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So what is your best et and mph at the moment?

20" 555Rs, I only went 1.85 on those. They need a long burnout. I do paddle shift burnouts with DRs.
My best et is 12.6. My best mph is 109.8. My best sixty is 1.87.
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