[nprario]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

Great idea with the boots, I might try them out.

I'm no stranger to noisy suspensions, I had a long travel tacoma with all heims. I had a bag full of stuff in the back and white lithium grease was in there haha.
Doesn't get driven in the rain so not too worried about much water getting to them.
I have new rears ready to go on once I finish tomorrow. Looking to get an alignment, anybody know any good performance alightment shops in so cal, temecula area?

Once I get her back on the road I'll report back the differences and any issues that arise, including nvh.
Thanks

Just had a track alignment done at Papini's Garage in Temecula. Good guys and got it spot on.

[Evansa22]

Originally Posted by carguy55

How do you mount the brake ducts to those?

That's what I was wondering but I don't think they're going back on. Hopefully it doesn't mess too much with the brake cooling.
Guess I'll find out

Originally Posted by nprario

Just had a track alignment done at Papini's Garage in Temecula. Good guys and got it spot on.

Right on, might give them a try. Thanks for the info

Also thanks for the input from everyone else

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by BMR Tech

It is not that the teflon does not last moisture swells the teflon and causes noise. If you daily drive a car with rod ends I would cover them with the seels it dust boots. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers36pk

Agreed, that would be the best solution before they're installed but when they're already installed on the vehicle and you don't want to remove them to install the dust boots, the WD-40 spray gel works just as well and lasts well over a year, providing a moisture and dirt barrier. Not bad for about 2 minutes of your time to spray each joint.

[carguy55]

You have to have some brake duct cooling! I know a guy I can ask

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Agreed, that would be the best solution before they're installed but when they're already installed on the vehicle and you don't want to remove them to install the dust boots, the WD-40 spray gel works just as well and lasts well over a year, providing a moisture and dirt barrier. Not bad for about 2 minutes of your time to spray each joint.

I read that the chemicals in standard WD 40 (non lithium or silicon based) can itself cause the teflon liners in the Heim joints to swell. This is why others including my shop recommend lithium grease.

Based on your experience this is not true right?

[20Bluezl1]

I believe the best advice is call SPL and ask what they recommend. Tbey most likely will say no need to put nothing on as it might void the warranty.

[cdb95z28]

Evansa22, Could you take a measurement of your OE lower control arm from the bolt hole centerline to the ball joint stud centerline, as seen in red?
Thank You

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

I read that the chemicals in standard WD 40 (non lithium or silicon based) can itself cause the teflon liners in the Heim joints to swell. This is why others including my shop recommend lithium grease.

Based on your experience this is not true right?

I daily drove my Hellcat for a year and half with that WD-40 spray gel lube (not standard WD-40) on the spherical rod ends and they never made any noise again.

I've also read Trick Shot lube works very well also. I have a can of that also but never got to use it because the WD-40 spray gel lube worked so well.

[Evansa22]

Originally Posted by carguy55

You have to have some brake duct cooling! I know a guy I can ask

I would appreciate it. The ducts are still there and run into the wheel well, its just the big flat piece that directs air towards the rotor has nowhere to go back on. It mounts to factory front tension rods.

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Evansa22, Could you take a measurement of your OE lower control arm from the bolt hole centerline to the ball joint stud centerline, as seen in red?
Thank You

Attachment 1058238

Will do when I get home tonight, if I remember correctly it was 13 9/16" but ill verify later.

[Badmojo]

Great post. Subb'ed

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

I would appreciate it. The ducts are still there and run into the wheel well, its just the big flat piece that directs air towards the rotor has nowhere to go back on. It mounts to factory front tension rods.



Will do when I get home tonight, if I remember correctly it was 13 9/16" but ill verify later.

Thank you for the measurement Evans22!
12 1/4"

[seanblurr]

I can't believe I have yet to do this... but I might finally order the rear toe links to remove the eccentrics.

Assuming this is the correct part for the SPL variant?
https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...c-lockout.html

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I can't believe I have yet to do this... but I might finally order the rear toe links to remove the eccentrics.

Assuming this is the correct part for the SPL variant?
https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...c-lockout.html

Yup i have on my 1ss and love em i got mine from vivid racing they had the best price

[Evansa22]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

Yup i have on my 1ss and love em i got mine from vivid racing they had the best price

Thanks to you got them from vivid also at a great price. Will get the rest of the rear stuff installed this weekend and post up the pictures.
Also for anyone installing the rear upper arms (guess they're trailing arms?) Make sure you have a 1/2 drive 18mm socket as well as 18mm box end wrench. No room to get to the nut with a socket on the spring side. Also was fighting the bolt head on the other side using a 3/8 drive 18mm with adapter because you have very limited space on that side as well. 3/8 drive torque wrench wouldn't hit 140 ft lbs which is what it calls for.