Need Help/Advice on fixing car,

wolfborg · 04-11-2024, 01:13 AM

Good day everyone.

Note: For those who wants to just skip to what my issue is, proceed to next paragraph

. Looking for help or advice regarding on how to proceed on fixing my now broken car. I first noticed an issue March 22nd, while driving from Los Angeles back to San Diego, I saw a warning that my oil levels are low. I just had my car oil changed at Valvoline by Costco H St Chula Vista, so I know my oil levels are good. When I got home, I checked oil levels, and it was almost none. Checked for leaks but found nothing. Went back to Valvoline the next day but the one on base (Navy Exchange 32nd St), where I normally take my other car before. They refilled my oil for free, since I just did a service with another Valvoline Service Center not even 2 weeks apart. Came, April 2-3, drove from San Diego to Aneheim, and back to San Diego the next day. No issues as I didn't get any low oil warning this time, however I did still re-check my oil levels and it was back below the lowest line. I read about the LTG having issues with the pistons/piston wearing out faster than it should, which causes oil to get into the combustion chamber. Since the car was still drivable I plan on getting it fixed in the next few weeks. Then this last Saturday (Apr 6th) as my family is heading to go grocery shopping, I heard a pop (backfire with lot of white smoke) as I was accelerating on the freeway, then immediate lost power (stalled). Luckily, the freeway is clear, and I was able to get to the shoulder with just the remaining momentum of the car. Tried to turn-on the engine, but no joy. Called my insurance, to get it towed to the dealership where I bought the car to get it diagnosed. There are no engine codes whatsoever since this happened. Car has less than 27k miles.

During diagnostics, Dealer Service Department found cylinder 1 at 0 psi, cylinder 2 at 100 psi, cylinder 3 at 115 psi, and cylinder 4 at 90 psi. Inspected cylinder 1 with a camera and found a cracked cylinder wall (see attached image). Due to the added mods I installed (intake, downpipe, etc). Dealership told me warranty will not cover the repairs, even though I did not change anything on the engine itself/internals, and wants to charge me $11,890.19 to get engine assembly replaced.

This is where I would like your advice. I'm just a lowly enlisted Sailor, and doesn't earn that much (hence an I4 and not a V8). I know everyone would say no into just letting it be repaired by the dealership, so I was thinking of just doing the repairs myself (with some help) and sleeving cylinder 1 temporarily, or should I just get a used LTG engine and replace it. I also found a K20 engine in a local shop, but that means I will end up having a Honda Camaro

but would save me a lot of $. Tried to search for a sleeve that would fit an LTG cylinder but couldn't find any online.

I apologize for the long novel. Any good advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Very respectfully,
A Poor Sailor
Currently riding a bicycle to get to and from the base (LOL)

----------------
2021 Camaro 1LT w/ RS Package (A8)

Engine/Internals: Stock
Performance Mods:
-ZZP Catted Downpipe (400 Cell Cat)
-ZZP Air Intake
-ZZP Larger Throttle Body Kit (Stock IC Piping)
-QTP Cutout (on stock mufflers)
-JMS PedalMax Throttle Controller
-RaceChip GTS Black
-Go FastBits DV+ Diverter Valve (removed due to P code, but took the spring and used on stock diverter)

For Looks/Extras (lol):
Drake Muscle Cars Wicker Spoiler
Aeroforce Single Interceptor Gauge w/ Aeroforce Dash Pod
Wolfbox G840S 12" 4K Mirror Dash/Back camera.

Former wheels:
2011 Camaro 2LS (bought new/sold in 2015)
2015 Traverse (bought new/sold in 2023)
2015 CamAm Spyder F3 (bought new/sold in 2016)
2011 Lexus CT200h (bought used/gave to niece)
2005 Chrysler 300 Touring (bought used/junked when I was stationed in Japan. Saw a lot of GTR R32/R33 ($27-40k) and Supras ($14-20k) but I'm poor so got the 300 instead for $2k lol)

His ZL1 · 04-11-2024, 07:33 AM

Cylinder 1 is obviously distressed. Hard to pin down root cause so not much recourse for repair cost.
LTG has a reputation for NOT accepting modifications well. I recognized that prior to buying one. Fortunately I have V8s when I want to scratch the more power itch.
The first question to answer is what is the goal of this repair? That will drive the direction taken.
With #1 in the condition it is, I would hesitate to rebuild this engine. The other cylinders are likely in similar condition. A used LTG (if one can be found) could be a ticking time bomb as you have become aware. At minimum a replacement block would be smart if rebuild is choice. If that route is taken, it would be a good opportunity to strengthen some of the LTG weak points to be capable of handling mods.
The idea of putting a Honda motor in may be more trouble than it is worth? A stock replacement LTG could make sense but I would replace the modded parts you have used to avoid ending up in a similar situation in the future. There is no guarantee of that either.
I know people who have the front wheel drive version of the LTG that have had good luck with that. Unfortunately whatever path you choose is not going to be inexpensive or quick.

ctrlz · 04-11-2024, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfborg

I saw a warning that my oil levels are low. I just had my car oil changed at Valvoline by Costco H St Chula Vista, so I know my oil levels are good. When I got home, I checked oil levels, and it was almost none.

Sorry about your major problem.
Hate to say it, but I think the oil change shop may have moved your car before refilling oil. Filling it after there has been damage doesn't help.

I do not think your mods caused this kind of major damage. had you been running lean, I think you would have seen a CEL with codes.

BarTek · 04-12-2024, 01:02 PM

If the piston was melted and the piston broke, it was probably the injector leaking.
If only the piston ring broke, there is a high probability that the cause was LSPI and poor-quality fuel. LSPI occurs in GDI engines. To prevent this, oil with the standard recommended by the manufacturer Dexos1 gen 2-3 or oils with the new API SP/RC standard are used.

Perhaps in the past, before you bought the car, someone poured bad fuel and the wrong oil, hence the piston was overloaded.

Is it worth doing? It's hard to assess without disassembling the engine. The best and easiest way is to find a bare engine pillar/block and replace it.

PS. Russian analyzes of Valvoline oil with the dexos 1 standard show that it is an average oil, not rich in engine protection additives. Better to use something better.
The analyzes concerned Valvoline oil for Europe, it may be different in the USA.

04-11-2024, 07:33 AM	#2
His ZL1 Drives: 92 B4C, 13 ZL1, 21 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 36	LTG Problems Cylinder 1 is obviously distressed. Hard to pin down root cause so not much recourse for repair cost. LTG has a reputation for NOT accepting modifications well. I recognized that prior to buying one. Fortunately I have V8s when I want to scratch the more power itch. The first question to answer is what is the goal of this repair? That will drive the direction taken. With #1 in the condition it is, I would hesitate to rebuild this engine. The other cylinders are likely in similar condition. A used LTG (if one can be found) could be a ticking time bomb as you have become aware. At minimum a replacement block would be smart if rebuild is choice. If that route is taken, it would be a good opportunity to strengthen some of the LTG weak points to be capable of handling mods. The idea of putting a Honda motor in may be more trouble than it is worth? A stock replacement LTG could make sense but I would replace the modded parts you have used to avoid ending up in a similar situation in the future. There is no guarantee of that either. I know people who have the front wheel drive version of the LTG that have had good luck with that. Unfortunately whatever path you choose is not going to be inexpensive or quick.

04-11-2024, 01:13 AM	#1
wolfborg Drives: Current '21 LTG 1LT/Former '11 2LS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: NB San Diego, CA Posts: 1 View My Garage	Need Help/Advice on fixing car, Good day everyone. Note: For those who wants to just skip to what my issue is, proceed to next paragraph . Looking for help or advice regarding on how to proceed on fixing my now broken car. I first noticed an issue March 22nd, while driving from Los Angeles back to San Diego, I saw a warning that my oil levels are low. I just had my car oil changed at Valvoline by Costco H St Chula Vista, so I know my oil levels are good. When I got home, I checked oil levels, and it was almost none. Checked for leaks but found nothing. Went back to Valvoline the next day but the one on base (Navy Exchange 32nd St), where I normally take my other car before. They refilled my oil for free, since I just did a service with another Valvoline Service Center not even 2 weeks apart. Came, April 2-3, drove from San Diego to Aneheim, and back to San Diego the next day. No issues as I didn't get any low oil warning this time, however I did still re-check my oil levels and it was back below the lowest line. I read about the LTG having issues with the pistons/piston wearing out faster than it should, which causes oil to get into the combustion chamber. Since the car was still drivable I plan on getting it fixed in the next few weeks. Then this last Saturday (Apr 6th) as my family is heading to go grocery shopping, I heard a pop (backfire with lot of white smoke) as I was accelerating on the freeway, then immediate lost power (stalled). Luckily, the freeway is clear, and I was able to get to the shoulder with just the remaining momentum of the car. Tried to turn-on the engine, but no joy. Called my insurance, to get it towed to the dealership where I bought the car to get it diagnosed. There are no engine codes whatsoever since this happened. Car has less than 27k miles. During diagnostics, Dealer Service Department found cylinder 1 at 0 psi, cylinder 2 at 100 psi, cylinder 3 at 115 psi, and cylinder 4 at 90 psi. Inspected cylinder 1 with a camera and found a cracked cylinder wall (see attached image). Due to the added mods I installed (intake, downpipe, etc). Dealership told me warranty will not cover the repairs, even though I did not change anything on the engine itself/internals, and wants to charge me $11,890.19 to get engine assembly replaced. This is where I would like your advice. I'm just a lowly enlisted Sailor, and doesn't earn that much (hence an I4 and not a V8). I know everyone would say no into just letting it be repaired by the dealership, so I was thinking of just doing the repairs myself (with some help) and sleeving cylinder 1 temporarily, or should I just get a used LTG engine and replace it. I also found a K20 engine in a local shop, but that means I will end up having a Honda Camaro but would save me a lot of $. Tried to search for a sleeve that would fit an LTG cylinder but couldn't find any online. I apologize for the long novel. Any good advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Very respectfully, A Poor Sailor Currently riding a bicycle to get to and from the base (LOL) ---------------- 2021 Camaro 1LT w/ RS Package (A8) Engine/Internals: Stock Performance Mods: -ZZP Catted Downpipe (400 Cell Cat) -ZZP Air Intake -ZZP Larger Throttle Body Kit (Stock IC Piping) -QTP Cutout (on stock mufflers) -JMS PedalMax Throttle Controller -RaceChip GTS Black -Go FastBits DV+ Diverter Valve (removed due to P code, but took the spring and used on stock diverter) For Looks/Extras (lol): Drake Muscle Cars Wicker Spoiler Aeroforce Single Interceptor Gauge w/ Aeroforce Dash Pod Wolfbox G840S 12" 4K Mirror Dash/Back camera. Former wheels: 2011 Camaro 2LS (bought new/sold in 2015) 2015 Traverse (bought new/sold in 2023) 2015 CamAm Spyder F3 (bought new/sold in 2016) 2011 Lexus CT200h (bought used/gave to niece) 2005 Chrysler 300 Touring (bought used/junked when I was stationed in Japan. Saw a lot of GTR R32/R33 ($27-40k) and Supras ($14-20k) but I'm poor so got the 300 instead for $2k lol) Attached Images

04-12-2024, 01:02 PM	#4
BarTek Drives: Camaro HotWheels Join Date: Sep 2023 Location: Poland Posts: 23	If the piston was melted and the piston broke, it was probably the injector leaking. If only the piston ring broke, there is a high probability that the cause was LSPI and poor-quality fuel. LSPI occurs in GDI engines. To prevent this, oil with the standard recommended by the manufacturer Dexos1 gen 2-3 or oils with the new API SP/RC standard are used. Perhaps in the past, before you bought the car, someone poured bad fuel and the wrong oil, hence the piston was overloaded. Is it worth doing? It's hard to assess without disassembling the engine. The best and easiest way is to find a bare engine pillar/block and replace it. PS. Russian analyzes of Valvoline oil with the dexos 1 standard show that it is an average oil, not rich in engine protection additives. Better to use something better. The analyzes concerned Valvoline oil for Europe, it may be different in the USA.

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