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Old 09-05-2023, 08:27 PM   #1
ChibbMD
 
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No Power At Wireless Charger Fuse in Trunk?

Hey folks. I'm trying to install a 12v USB charging port in the trunk and was looking for a switched circuit to use as I only want the port to charge when the car is on. My research suggested the wireless charging circuit would be the ticket, but I can't get it to work with a fuse tap. Honestly, I can't even get a test light to light up when the car is running. This is a new to me 1ss so I don't think I actually have wireless charging. Anyway, just looking for some assistance here and would be happy to find out I'm just missing something simple. Thanks.
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Old 09-05-2023, 08:49 PM   #2
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OK, another search turned up a thread where another user stated that cars without the wireless charging option don't have the needed wiring to power that circuit. Seems kind of stupid, but I guess I can understand.

So with this in mind, is there another switched circuit in the trunk fuse box that would be good to tap into?
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Old 09-05-2023, 09:32 PM   #3
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I'm also fine tapping into a wire that supplies switched 12v to a relay if needed. Just need some direction on which wire.
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Old 09-08-2023, 09:35 AM   #4
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Switched power is provided by the Retained Accessory Power relay. There are two things on the RAP Relay "KR76": Accessory Power Receptacle/12V Socket and Wireless Charger.



This is the best source for accessory power.

I never recommend tapping a random wire in the main harness for accessories without knowing exactly what it does. Of course, all wire taps need to be fused for the wire/load being added and that should be less than the spare capacity on the existing circuit.
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1100: 5/3/22 . . . . . . . 2000: 6/25/22 . . . . . .4000: 8/17/22 . . . . . . . 6000: 9/10/22

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Old 09-12-2023, 04:27 PM   #5
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Test light probe is pointing to the wire I tapped into.
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Old 09-12-2023, 05:31 PM   #6
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Purple is the color identified in the schematic above for accessory power, it's also a thicker wire. X2-40 is the #40 pin in harness X2.

And if i'm reading the photo right, the red/blue is #37 and the wire you identify is #35, which is control from the keyless entry. I would NOT use that wire for anything.

In general, thin wires should be ignored as they are control.
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2023 1SS A10 Black NPP/C2U/H72 - Daily Driver
Historically an Accord and Camry owner with self-performed maintenance/repair.

1100: 5/3/22 . . . . . . . 2000: 6/25/22 . . . . . .4000: 8/17/22 . . . . . . . 6000: 9/10/22

Daily Driver mileage update: 22k mi. @ April 2024
New Engine @ 22,600

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Old 09-12-2023, 07:01 PM   #7
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For future reference, the violet/purple wire is switched. I moved over to that wire. It's a better option than the little thin wire I was using previously.
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Old 09-12-2023, 07:42 PM   #8
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The purple wire should be on the load side of the switched relay while the red/blue wire is the feed to the switched relay. Either could be used for switched or constant, respectively, for loads under 15A.

Remember to ALWAYS fuse wires you add, and size the fusing at or below the OEM source fuse, and size the fuse for the wire you use.




If you need more power/current, then use a relay. The relay coil can be switched by the switched RAP violet wire and the relay contact can be ran directly to the battery. Just size the wiring, fusing, and relay for the load.
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2023 1SS A10 Black NPP/C2U/H72 - Daily Driver
Historically an Accord and Camry owner with self-performed maintenance/repair.

1100: 5/3/22 . . . . . . . 2000: 6/25/22 . . . . . .4000: 8/17/22 . . . . . . . 6000: 9/10/22

Daily Driver mileage update: 22k mi. @ April 2024
New Engine @ 22,600

Build Log: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...6#post11353116
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