[KPzypher]

Hey all,

I'm looking to do a Pro charger P1X based street build. It will be a daily driven car in somewhat mild NC weather (still in the high 50s to occasional low 70s). No DRs and I'll be on street tires (PS4S) throughout the year. As mentioned in the title, I want to limit power to low 600s range and definitely keep it under 650whp (I know i'm the oddball here not chasing after big numbers ). At this range, hopefully less likely to have any/major problems with the SBE under normal driving conditions. I am currently considering two options.

Option 1, P1X with 50/50 meth kit which is more budget friendly and simple setup (plan to spray conservatively) plus a good dyno tune.
Option 2, P1X with blower cam kit plus a good dyno tune (not sure on specs/brand yet but not interested in biggest/most aggressive cam set-up. Drivability is more important).

The car is completely stock at the moment minus cosmetics.

I'm pretty sure I can fairly easily reach the target with the meth kit. Will I be able to achieve similar results with the latter without too much efforts e.g. fuel upgrades and etc? If there're better/safer builds or parts I should consider in conjunction with the above, please let me know.

Not looking to chase that extra 1/10th, nor am I a dyno queen. And no plan to go BIG down the road. I just want a fun and reliable long-term daily driver. Some of you may think i'm wasting potential and can scold me all you want, but I think low 600s is plenty fun on the street.

Odd question. Do shops typically charge more for install during warmer seasons, or does pricing more or less stay consistent throughout the year?

And if you're a vendor reading this post, can you PM a quote for P1X tuner kit with stage II I/C, helical gearset, race bypass valve, and black satin finish for both bracket and head unit?

Thanks in advance and happy new years everyone!!

[gotswap]

Why does someone go with a Pro Charger vs a PD blower such as the eforce or Maggie? That off idle torque of a PD is addicting.

[KPzypher]

Originally Posted by gotswap

Why does someone go with a Pro Charger vs a PD blower such as the eforce or Maggie? That off idle torque of a PD is addicting.

To me, sound, fuel economy, ease of install, less parts, less strain on the engine as I don't plan on going WOT all the time, etc etc. I'm used to turbos. I think there's plenty low end torque as is (my opinion). Anyways not trying to make this another PD vs Centri. I think that horse has been beaten to death already.

[TheDamme94]

You have the same goals that i have when it comes to your build, we just finished up the D1X stage 2 on my SS with a dual nozzle Alky controls kit. I feel like if you have the time and the mechanical aptitude, i would do the install myself. Saves a whole bunch of money and in the end starting her up after working on it was an amazing feeling man. I would honestly say go 100 percent meth with a boost controlled meth kit so it would only spray as you get into your boost (3psi, 4 psi, or 5 psi). If you have any questions i would ask Rick from Unlimited Performance, he handles LT1 boosted apps with meth kits and helped me out a bunch during my install!

[KPzypher]

Originally Posted by TheDamme94

You have the same goals that i have when it comes to your build, we just finished up the D1X stage 2 on my SS with a dual nozzle Alky controls kit. I feel like if you have the time and the mechanical aptitude, i would do the install myself. Saves a whole bunch of money and in the end starting her up after working on it was an amazing feeling man. I would honestly say go 100 percent meth with a boost controlled meth kit so it would only spray as you get into your boost (3psi, 4 psi, or 5 psi). If you have any questions i would ask Rick from Unlimited Performance, he handles LT1 boosted apps with meth kits and helped me out a bunch during my install!

Thnx. I think D1X is an overkill for my build as is the dual nozzle Alky kit. Single nozzle should suffice. Still debating on the meth mix. Not sure if I'd feel comfortable holding M1 in the washer fluid reservoir. Might just stick to boost juice instead. And like you said I'm gonna try to do the PC install myself. That's one of the reasons why I went with the PC. I'll probably do that unless I go the CAM route. What gauge setup are you running with the PC/ALKY? and do you have any added failsafes with the Alky setup? Anyways, nice build and let us know how much power your're putting down and more importantly how it drives.

[laynlo15]

I don't think the procharger is any easier to install then a PD. I'd rather sneak up on someone and kick their ass then make a bunch of noise and the power come on too late. I doubt the procharger will get any better mileage then a PD and I'm really not sure about less parts. As far as strain on the engine much of that is based on how much boost you want to make.
Not sure where your getting your info from on all the things you listed for the pros of a procharger over a PD. However, pick you medicine and live with it and have fun.

[TheDamme94]

Im planning on running a nguage system to monitor boost and also monitor AFRs, currently running just an AEM wideband until all the goodies including a new 3 bar MAP to monitor boost in HPtuners come in. We went with a dual nozzle kit just to have a safety net incase i decide to pulley down to a smaller size and add a waste gate and boost controller. I plan to add an IAT breakout where it will put the motor in limp mode if the sensor goes over 100* under boost since the sensor will be misted with M1 under boost keeping it under 70*. Drivability during cruising is less torquey than i thought but as you climb in RPMs it pulls and pulls and pulls, addicting really. Plus that purge sounds like a freight train. Hopefully when we dial everything in and finalize the setup, we can dyno the Batmobile and get some 1/4 times

[KPzypher]

Originally Posted by TheDamme94

Im planning on running a nguage system to monitor boost and also monitor AFRs, currently running just an AEM wideband until all the goodies including a new 3 bar MAP to monitor boost in HPtuners come in. We went with a dual nozzle kit just to have a safety net incase i decide to pulley down to a smaller size and add a waste gate and boost controller. I plan to add an IAT breakout where it will put the motor in limp mode if the sensor goes over 100* under boost since the sensor will be misted with M1 under boost keeping it under 70*. Drivability during cruising is less torquey than i thought but as you climb in RPMs it pulls and pulls and pulls, addicting really. Plus that purge sounds like a freight train. Hopefully when we dial everything in and finalize the setup, we can dyno the Batmobile and get some 1/4 times

Thnx again. Will IAT climb fast enough to induce limp mode before doing any damage? I'm ok with not having instant torque during cruising. I just want to reserve it for top end. I do like the 6 display setup on the ngauge. Is there a mount kit using defrost vent with those?

[laynlo15]

This question has nothing to do with PD or Procharger. But do I hear you correctly that if the IAT reaches over 100 degrees it will put the car in to limp mode? Have you logged any cruising or runs down the track. Maybe I'm missing something but just want to make sure I read your post correctly.

[oldman]

My first build was blower cam, heads, headers and a P1-SC (P1x was just out), but I got a super deal on the plane P1. I like it the 32% lobe really helped out. I lost a lifter and it cost the cam too. So I'm sticking with mild lifts (check cam motion) Order Johnson lifters period. If you are doing cam, do the heads at the same time. I think fuel you are still shaky and I'd do at least a ZL1 low side, LT4 injectors high side. The power will NOT be an issue, the cam, heads will put the power out even with a 4.25 pulley IMO. My first blow cam had -4 degrees of overlap so it sounded near stock. My current cam has dunno +8 and has a "defined lope", sounds really great with stock headers. I have a posting on the NA forum with it and LT. Very drivable either way, just depends if you want a cam sound. My best advice is pick a good tuner, I've used Pray and Ryne Cunningham, both excellent. Many vendors here also tune and will deliver you a turn key package that is well supported. The one advantage that the meth may offer is cleaner valves. I don't run any PCV so I would not know one way or the other. IMO, you will get the fuel lobe with cam and the LT4 injectors should do it.

On my PS4s, M6 the car can't take more than 1/2 throttle in 1st and wot with what you are planning would be the top of 2nd, powershifting days are over too. As an aside if you cam and drop your pan, I'd change the rod bolts and up the rev limit 6800 RPM, the centri really likes a few more Rs and the bolts are cheap insurance (I maybe just paranoid). I ran mine for 2.5 years with stock rod bolts and 6800 fuel cut. My new cam cut is 7200 and I may raise it to 7400 just to see when the power is on the gear change....centri do like at least 200 RPM, or maybe even 400 RPM more vs a PD. IMO, and the sound of a high comp V8 at 6800 rpm is pure music, especially with the stock headers.

Once again check with a vendor that will deliver you a package. I vouched for the two I used, but there are a lot of guys here that have had super good luck with sponsors of this board. Lastly, I will say after all this, your power level is the max I'd recommend a email tune. At my levels and greater the car is just a handful to tune on the street, I recommend dyno for safety (think Pray is in your area).

[laynlo15]

What he said

[KPzypher]

Originally Posted by oldman

My first build was blower cam, heads, headers and a P1-SC (P1x was just out), but I got a super deal on the plane P1. I like it the 32% lobe really helped out. I lost a lifter and it cost the cam too. So I'm sticking with mild lifts (check cam motion) Order Johnson lifters period. If you are doing cam, do the heads at the same time. I think fuel you are still shaky and I'd do at least a ZL1 low side, LT4 injectors high side. The power will NOT be an issue, the cam, heads will put the power out even with a 4.25 pulley IMO. My first blow cam had -4 degrees of overlap so it sounded near stock. My current cam has dunno +8 and has a "defined lope", sounds really great with stock headers. I have a posting on the NA forum with it and LT. Very drivable either way, just depends if you want a cam sound. My best advice is pick a good tuner, I've used Pray and Ryne Cunningham, both excellent. Many vendors here also tune and will deliver you a turn key package that is well supported. The one advantage that the meth may offer is cleaner valves. I don't run any PCV so I would not know one way or the other. IMO, you will get the fuel lobe with cam and the LT4 injectors should do it.

On my PS4s, M6 the car can't take more than 1/2 throttle in 1st and wot with what you are planning would be the top of 2nd, powershifting days are over too. As an aside if you cam and drop your pan, I'd change the rod bolts and up the rev limit 6800 RPM, the centri really likes a few more Rs and the bolts are cheap insurance (I maybe just paranoid). I ran mine for 2.5 years with stock rod bolts and 6800 fuel cut. My new cam cut is 7200 and I may raise it to 7400 just to see when the power is on the gear change....centri do like at least 200 RPM, or maybe even 400 RPM more vs a PD. IMO, and the sound of a high comp V8 at 6800 rpm is pure music, especially with the stock headers.

Once again check with a vendor that will deliver you a package. I vouched for the two I used, but there are a lot of guys here that have had super good luck with sponsors of this board. Lastly, I will say after all this, your power level is the max I'd recommend a email tune. At my levels and greater the car is just a handful to tune on the street, I recommend dyno for safety (think Pray is in your area).

Thanks oldman. Exactly what I was looking for and always open to good advice. Thanks for the tip on the lifters. So do you recommend cam/heads over meth kit?
It'll probably be another $5K plus and more if I have to upgrade fuel too. But will it be worth it in the long run? Like I've said earlier, not looking to go much bigger than the low 600s range down the road so easily attainable with either options. I'm still not sold on E-85, so I'll remain on pump 93 for the foreseeable future. And like you said, i'm not looking for an e-mail tune. Luckily, I'm literally 10mins away from Pray so i'll be sure to check them out, particularly with regards to his cam package and for a dyno/street tune. Thanks again.

[laynlo15]

You should be able to achieve 600 on Lt4 fuel system on 93 octane but you might consider JMS boost a pump just to make sure your low side doesn't drop. Good luck on your build.

[KPzypher]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

You should be able to achieve 600 on Lt4 fuel system on 93 octane but you might consider JMS boost a pump just to make sure your low side doesn't drop. Good luck on your build.

Thanks. I guess stock fuel system is kinda pushing it on the low 600s range without E or meth setup?