Any regrets on putting a cam in? - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Crash76 · 03-30-2017, 10:55 PM

yes there is always that risk of modding your car while in warranty and having to pay for your own repairs... this is not new information.

TOO.BAD · 03-31-2017, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMERHEAD15

Let your car cool completely down before making your first pass and you will
Be 3 tenths faster. Then hot lap it and watch your times go down from there! Anyone that tells you there is no heat issue with these cars has no idea what they are talking about!

No one said there is no heat issue, he just said Chevy did a good job and money is better spent on other mods at my HP level. I do let my car cool down before first run, and in between 3-5 hot laps. My problem is with the launch and the 60' time. Here are 2 separate time slips. I'm #22 & #90.

SCHUSS · 03-31-2017, 07:14 AM

My regret on my cam is that I didn't go with a more aggressive one! 657 RWHP seems like a lot until you drive it for a while and realize, I NEED MORE POWER!!!! To much is never enough!

HAMMERHEAD15 · 03-31-2017, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOO.BAD

No one said there is no heat issue, he just said Chevy did a good job and money is better spent on other mods at my HP level. I do let my car cool down before first run, and in between 3-5 hot laps. My problem is with the launch and the 60' time. Here are 2 separate time slips. I'm #22 & #90.

Just to prove my point my car is stock and with proper cooling I'm running 11.40's. To me it just makes since to solve the cooling issues before you spend a bunch of money and can't use the HP you got.

TOO.BAD · 03-31-2017, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMERHEAD15

Just to prove my point my car is stock and with proper cooling I'm running 11.40's. To me it just makes since to solve the cooling issues before you spend a bunch of money and can't use the HP you got.

You have a coupe that weighs 250 lbs. less than my convertible and you have an automatic that takes no skill to drive. How do you consider your car to be stock if you have better cooling. Why does Chevrolet claim that your car does a 12.0 in the 1/4 mile but yours does 11.4's. Are they starting with an over heated car? Sorry but I don't think that you are the smartest guy on this forum.
I'll take my advise from Ted Jannetty. Thank You Very Much!

HAMMERHEAD15 · 03-31-2017, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOO.BAD

You have a coupe that weighs 250 lbs. less than my convertible and you have an automatic that takes no skill to drive. How do you consider your car to be stock if you have better cooling. Why does Chevrolet claim that your car does a 12.0 in the 1/4 mile but yours does 11.4's. Are they starting with an over heated car? Sorry but I don't think that you are the smartest guy on this forum.
I'll take my advise from Ted Jannetty. Thank You Very Much!

You spent how much money with jennety to run .09
Seconds faster? I never said I am the smartest it just doesn't make sense to me to add more horsepower and heat when you can't use the horsepower that the stock car has. Your right my car isn't stock I did do cooling mods first and will add a lot of other things behind that. Personally I would be pissed if I spent as much money as you and a lot of others have and couldn't go any faster than you are! Also Chevrolet ran there car 11.90's on stock tired and I think they said 11.7's with DR's. The fact is the cooling is deficient from the factory but it doesn't matter how big of an intercooler you get you will never get lower than ambient temperatures very best case scenario. What it does do is allow you to cool back down quicker especially if you have one with fans and set it up so you can run the pump in the staging lanes.

Can'tHave2MuchHP · 03-31-2017, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOO.BAD

You have a coupe that weighs 250 lbs. less than my convertible and you have an automatic that takes no skill to drive. How do you consider your car to be stock if you have better cooling. Why does Chevrolet claim that your car does a 12.0 in the 1/4 mile but yours does 11.4's. Are they starting with an over heated car? Sorry but I don't think that you are the smartest guy on this forum.
I'll take my advise from Ted Jannetty. Thank You Very Much!

370zyzfr1 · 03-31-2017, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOO.BAD

No one said there is no heat issue, he just said Chevy did a good job and money is better spent on other mods at my HP level. I do let my car cool down before first run, and in between 3-5 hot laps. My problem is with the launch and the 60' time. Here are 2 separate time slips. I'm #22 & #90.

Are you using drag radials?

SCHUSS · 03-31-2017, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMERHEAD15

Just to prove my point my car is stock and with proper cooling I'm running 11.40's. To me it just makes since to solve the cooling issues before you spend a bunch of money and can't use the HP you got.

11.40's stock?! Are you staging with the rear tires? Thats impressive!

TOO.BAD · 03-31-2017, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370zyzfr1

Are you using drag radials?

Best time with Drag Radials was 11.510
Best time with Slicks & Skinnies so far is 11.325
My Drag Radials spun like crazy so I had to come out of the hole real easy to even get into the 11's.
My Slicks grab so good they don't spin and my car has been bogging and nose diving.
Launch control didn't work at all with Drag Radials but I'm going to try again with Slicks.
My car is not the problem. The problem is the Driver, Me.
BFASTNOTLAST told his secret on loading the car up at the gate by slipping the clutch with the ebrake on until the light. I plan on trying that too. It makes so much sense.
I don't care, I LOVE my CAR and I've been having a BLAST trying to get into the 10's.

HAMMERHEAD15 · 03-31-2017, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCHUSS

11.40's stock?! Are you staging with the rear tires? Thats impressive!

No sir! I just make sure the car is good and cool before I run it, and I got an automatic so any dummy can drive it! Lol. I now have an active interchiller so I can hot lap the car. I can say the car doesn't spin at all and doesn't bog when it hooks up. I don't know why a car with 200-250 more HP would bog out of the hole wether it be manual or auto. I also would think it would run more tha 2-4 more MPH on the big end.

aris · 03-31-2017, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Liquidity

What if your big aftermarket Cam breaks? Then what? Your warranty is voided so you can't go back to the Dealer. Cams are a gamble. That is a hard pill to swallow.

1. It's not that big of a gamble if you do it right.

2. It's entirely reversible.

3. Stuff that's entirely reversible isn't going to have a dramatic effect on value long term (if that's what you care about), as long as the car is mechanically sound and in good condition overall.

I had over 100,000 miles on a C5 Z06 with a huge cam, long tubes, and head work. I installed the parts at around 30,000. I never had a single problem with the car related to the cam install.

I can assure you - LS motors have been modified with huge cams and head work by thousands and thousands of people, probably amounting to millions of miles of driving. As long as the work is done right, corners aren't cut, and the cam package is spec'd correctly, you will not have issues. In the case of the LS7, you may even end up with a more reliable motor if you address the valve guide issue in the process.

My Z/28 now has 5,800 miles on it - I fully intend on doing heads, cam, and long-tubes in the very near future because I bought the car for my own personal enjoyment, not to preserve it for the next guy that might get it (assuming I ever sold it).

E. Bryant · 03-31-2017, 04:19 PM

I do not regret my cam. I do think that one should resist the temptation to go overboard with the cam on these engines. If one wants to retain stock-like driveability and durability, there is much to be said for the LS9 cam. My cam is somewhat more aggressive, and yet retains driveability that I find quite acceptable; it does fine in the drive-through or at 6800 RPM down the straights at the local road course.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMERHEAD15

I don't know why a car with 200-250 more HP would bog out of the hole wether it be manual or auto. I also would think it would run more tha 2-4 more MPH on the big end.

File this one under "better to remain silent and be thought a fool"

HAMMERHEAD15 · 03-31-2017, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E. Bryant

I do not regret my cam. I do think that one should resist the temptation to go overboard with the cam on these engines. If one wants to retain stock-like driveability and durability, there is much to be said for the LS9 cam. My cam is somewhat more aggressive, and yet retains driveability that I find quite acceptable; it does fine in the drive-through or at 6800 RPM down the straights at the local road course.

File this one under "better to remain silent and be thought a fool"

And what part of this makes me a fool?

03-31-2017, 07:14 AM	#31
SCHUSS 709 RWHP & 677 RWTQ Drives: 13' HPE 800 ZL1..... IOM vert, M6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: South Windsor, CT Posts: 1,140	My regret on my cam is that I didn't go with a more aggressive one! 657 RWHP seems like a lot until you drive it for a while and realize, I NEED MORE POWER!!!! To much is never enough! __________________ 11.34 @ 124.88

03-30-2017, 10:55 PM	#29
Crash76 Team 913 Drives: '14 ZL1, '15 Jeep GC, ‘22 Ram 2500 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: USA, Central CA Posts: 1,119	yes there is always that risk of modding your car while in warranty and having to pay for your own repairs... this is not new information.