[oldman]

Originally Posted by ramairroughneck

In Oklahoma they often close the road and have street races. I am not talking about anything illegal here. The towns agree to do it. You show up with only 30% injectors on E85 and your gonna be dead last and probably laughed at by everyone there that spent half as much. I wouldn’t recommend it. You better add some nitrous into the mix. You will never hang with late model Coyotes or lightweight nitrous big blocks. There is a place for the extreme.

clearly, I said 30% bigger than LT4, pump, and lobe on a street car vs only one mod and a "closed road"... sure thing if you are building a "car" for a closed road and want to win against any know other "car".. I would not be driving in with a stock engine SS with a bolt on like the original poster. I already said for a RACE CAR it is $$$$$$$ and clearly with $$$$$$$$$, a DI engine in some "car" will be faster than whatever you have, or even dream of having. I just highly doubt it is a street car.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by viurniel

The eForce build that is well documented on the ZL1 sub forum has FIC 30%, Pump, Cam, heads, etc.. and it's still not breaking 'safe' engine levels...

You and I will have to disagree on what are safe engine levels... nothing new, considering the OP has a STOCK SS.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product...l#.XVY72ehKgUE

[ramairroughneck]

You are absolutely right Oldman. The OP is not inquiring about the extreme. I clearly got off track

[viurniel]

Originally Posted by oldman

You and I will have to disagree on what are safe engine levels... nothing new, considering the OP has a STOCK SS.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product...l#.XVY72ehKgUE

I agree with you that an SS will quickly see limitations on LT4 fuel upgrades.

However, I brought up the SPI topic regarding my own car (ZL1), and the OPs response was referencing Guitarmageddon's ZL1. Therefore, my comment was regarding SPI on a ZL1.

[oldman]

I’m merely saying a DI is capable of performing on street cars and engines. Anything else is $$$$$$ and 100k durability suspect. There is no doubt in my mind an aftermarket dual inject is more complicated and will not offer the same dependability. In the end I stayed with DI.

Wish you luck with 1000 whp. It would be an interesting build. With my cam issues, i’m More in the 800 whp is about all that can be done with a valve train that can make 100k. I’ve been through all the valve train issues with the ls, now it is with LT1.... no thanks.

[viurniel]

Originally Posted by oldman

I’m merely saying a DI is capable of performing on street cars and engines. Anything else is $$$$$$ and 100k durability suspect. There is no doubt in my mind an aftermarket dual inject is more complicated and will not offer the same dependability. In the end I stayed with DI.

Wish you luck with 1000 whp. It would be an interesting build. With my cam issues, i’m More in the 800 whp is about all that can be done with a valve train that can make 100k. I’ve been through all the valve train issues with the ls, now it is with LT1.... no thanks.

Thank you sir. I am following your build, should be solid.

100k miles - you guys make me feel like I barely drive my car. I may see 5-8K street miles every year.

[oldman]

Bout what I do, and just over a set of tires a year....cheap rubber or sumting

[gaveup]

I find myself in the exact same position deciding which to go with and if it’s worth it. Shop offered these prices for the kits installed (would still have to pay for custom tuning).

Lt4 SC - $7500
Whipple or Maggie 2300 - $8959
Procharger d1 with stage 2 IC and upgraded valve - $8500.

Since I’m only looking for 550whp, I’m wondering if it is better to just use that money to eat some of the depreciation in my car and move to a ZL1.

[laynlo15]

If your going to drag race with the D1x you'll probably need a stall converter since the boost level comes in later then the PD's which are instant boost. I've never run a converter and have had 60ft times in the 1.40s and best of 1.40.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by gaveup

I find myself in the exact same position deciding which to go with and if it’s worth it. Shop offered these prices for the kits installed (would still have to pay for custom tuning).

Lt4 SC - $7500
Whipple or Maggie 2300 - $8959
Procharger d1 with stage 2 IC and upgraded valve - $8500.

Since I’m only looking for 550whp, I’m wondering if it is better to just use that money to eat some of the depreciation in my car and move to a ZL1.

You don't need a d1 a p1x can do it even a p1sc can do it. I would not consider any supercharger that did not have tuning built-in to the price.

I don't know about your finances, but my 1SS to a Zl1 was 28K... I figure I'm 12K into mods which I could sell for dunno 6k. Net I would be 6 K over 3 years... so far this has been one of my "cheaper" cars to build. Of course, labor would have been dollars but this is a hobby for me.

I would suggest blower of your choice, tune, and at least front cat deletes as the minimum that you should price. I would agree that base centri will need a converter if you intended to drag race and be competitive.

[laynlo15]

I'm assuming those cost numbers include labor