[Dysan911]

Anyone that's swapped their stock one out for the LT4 HPFP. Did you need a special tool?

I read that you have to use a special tool to ensure the cam is at its base of circle. The tool you need is made by Kent-Moore and the part number is EN-51092 (This tool looks like a big plug that takes the place of the high pressure fuel pump)

Thanks

[Dysan911]

Also I can't seem to locate one of these anywhere. Not even ebay has one.

[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Anyone that's swapped their stock one out for the LT4 HPFP. Did you need a special tool?

I read that you have to use a special tool to ensure the cam is at its base of circle. The tool you need is made by Kent-Moore and the part number is EN-51092 (This tool looks like a big plug that takes the place of the high pressure fuel pump)

Thanks

I’ve done it on other cars using a boroscope, if you have one of those.

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

I’ve done it on other cars using a boroscope, if you have one of those.

I don't and wouldn't even have a clue what to look for. This would be the first time I have ever swapped out a HPFP. I thought it was just unbolt the old one and install the new one.

I googled that Kent Moore tool and you get NOTHING but some old expired (Sold) ebay links and a bunch of non-related topics after that. So finding one of these is probably going to be a problem.

[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I don't and wouldn't even have a clue what to look for. This would be the first time I have ever swapped out a HPFP. I thought it was just unbolt the old one and install the new one.

I googled that Kent Moore tool and you get NOTHING but some old expired (Sold) ebay links and a bunch of non-related topics after that. So finding one of these is probably going to be a problem.

You can get a cheap boroscope that plugs into your phone and even that should work. You literally just put it down the hole so you can visually see that the lobe has the flat part sticking straight up. I haven’t done one on this motor yet but the principle is the same. It’s just to make sure when you’re bolting down the pump, it isnt in compression. Usually you know this anyways because the pump won’t sit flat on the housing.

[Eyefixstuff]

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-for-lt1.html

Scroll down far enough and he explains it pretty well and also says if you don’t have the tool there are other options.

[DapperDan]

Im thinking maybe sit the pump in the hole and put a socket on the crank bolt and turn the motor over real slow until the pump drops down ? Wouldnt that work?

[brettman]

Originally Posted by DapperDan

Im thinking maybe sit the pump in the hole and put a socket on the crank bolt and turn the motor over real slow until the pump drops down ? Wouldnt that work?

^^^^^^^
Ya, what he said. And if you want to get anal, put two locator studs to hold the pump straight on the valley. ME, I'd just put a wooden dowel in the hole and rotate the engine. This is not a critical install. Hell, with the length of the pump,
you can view it with a flashlight to see the lobe on the cam.

[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by brettman

^^^^^^^
Ya, what he said. And if you want to get anal, put two locator studs to hold the pump straight on the valley. ME, I'd just put a wooden dowel in the hole and rotate the engine. This is not a critical install. Hell, with the length of the pump,
you can view it with a flashlight to see the lobe on the cam.

That’s funny, I almost said to use a wooden dowel too, lol.

[brettman]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

That’s funny, I almost said to use a wooden dowel too, lol.

LOL, cool, over 30 years construction field mechanic. Ive found sticks to fix a Cat D8K dozer cause the crew was standing around, drinking coffee. And the Super was bitching me out...lol.

[Dysan911]

Thanks everyone for the help with this. Why do they bother making a specific tool for this when you can just set the pump in the hole or the wooden dowel trick and achieve the same thing?

[Eyefixstuff]

I’ve run into stuff over the years that used to make me wonder ge same thing. A couple weeks ago I was working on a 2014 Ford Escape ecoboost (not by choice) and I had to replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner. I looked up the procedure and saw there there is literally 3 different tools specific for this engine that are supposed to be used. One that holds the cams together and in place, one for the tensioner, and another one that gets put through the block to hold the crank in a specific place. Ended up doing it fine without two of the tools though.

So in short for the most part they are just there for guidance, especially for inexperienced techs or those that work at the dealer and may see these jobs all the time, just to make life a little easier. They aren’t necessarily a complete necessity. Not in all cases anyways. Try putting a clutch in your car without the alignment tool and you’re going to get yourself pretty pissed off.

[Daniel_94kg]

A dial indicator works too. That's what I use

[Dysan911]

Hey Guys.. Ok so I got my intake off and wanted to confirm a couple things about the injector swap.

The new injectors came with these parts.



To remove the old injectors I have disconnected the hard steel lines between the fuel rails so that all is left is removing the big 17mm bolts holding them down. Once I remove that is there a technique to remove the injectors? Should I just pry up on the fuel rail and pull the old ones out still attached or disconnect them from the fuel rail first?

Also just drop the new ones in and push down until they snap into place? Not sure if I need any of those little seals, etc.

Thanks!