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Old 02-22-2019, 07:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booher View Post
You guys are making this way too expensive and hard, you dont need that super expensive fancy stuff unless you are a top notch audiophile.
IDK man. Yes, the MOST interfaces are a little on the pricey side but they are the proper way to do it. The DSP's do their best to undo the total sonic cluster that modern stock systems make of the signal to the speakers but it isn't great.

It's not just about sound quality either, it's also about the factory mics and alerts etc.

Pretty much every person on here that started with a DSP and then changed over to a proper MOST interface has admitted to a world of difference. Perhaps they are all in the 10% but I doubt it.

So yes, a DSP method can save cash but it definitely isn't as good and I would argue most anybody could tell the difference in an A-B. One could save even more money and just connect their amp's high level to the factory [speaker] signal. I guess it is a sliding scale of expectations.

Last edited by SilverCamaroVert; 02-22-2019 at 10:56 AM. Reason: added clarification of which signal.
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:39 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by SilverCamaroVert View Post
So yes, a DSP method can save cash but it definitely isn't as good and I would argue most anybody could tell the difference in an A-B. One could save even more money and just connect their amp's high level to the factory signal. I guess it is a sliding scale of expectations.
Okay so im getting confused now. I know there are like 30 different ways to do this. But can somebody tell me if I will have any problems by tapping into the front speaker signal wires (preferably inputs so the bose amp hasnt changed the signal) and run those either to a LoC or an amp with high level inputs that can accept them?

Will I then have a full range of signal to use for my subwoofer? Or is that going to not give me a full signal? This almost seems too easy to me with how many expensive options there are for setting up amps in the Camaro.
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:07 AM   #31
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if you actually have the Bose amp in your car....the audio input comes from the Most50 BUS....there are no standard left/right type inputs....outside of the Bose amp config...i have no idea what the other options are/are not in the various models/radio options.....pull the cover off your trunk floor...if you have an amp on the left...and it has 4 plugs going to it and has cooling fins on the top...its a Bose...


if you have the Bose and tap off the front door speaker outputs from the Bose amp...it will be a signal only up to 250-300hz...not full range...no speaker in the Bose system see's full range


I plan on adding the Most50 PAC unit in a month or two when car is out of winter storage...i will still keep the Rockford DSP as it has a 1/3 octave EQ and gives me control over output levels/etc...i will just change fromt he 6 channel Bose output to 6 channel DSP input (which sums up and levels out all 6 channels) to the fiber connection direct from the PAC unit
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:50 AM   #32
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if you actually have the Bose amp in your car....the audio input comes from the Most50 BUS....there are no standard left/right type inputs....outside of the Bose amp config...i have no idea what the other options are/are not in the various models/radio options.....pull the cover off your trunk floor...if you have an amp on the left...and it has 4 plugs going to it and has cooling fins on the top...its a Bose...


if you have the Bose and tap off the front door speaker outputs from the Bose amp...it will be a signal only up to 250-300hz...not full range...no speaker in the Bose system see's full range


I plan on adding the Most50 PAC unit in a month or two when car is out of winter storage...i will still keep the Rockford DSP as it has a 1/3 octave EQ and gives me control over output levels/etc...i will just change fromt he 6 channel Bose output to 6 channel DSP input (which sums up and levels out all 6 channels) to the fiber connection direct from the PAC unit
I am going to be getting the BOSE system. But would there not be some input signal into the amp that has full range? Like from the headunit to the amp for some of the speakers? The amp has to know which speakers to send what signal too so that amp has to be getting a full range from somewhere?

And other people here said tapping into those front speakers gave them a signal good enough for their LoCs to play the sub well. Just the rear speakers that you would normally use did not.

I am going to be upset if I have to spend $450 on that stupid thing just to plug in an aftermarket amp.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:04 AM   #33
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the front speakers will give you proper signal for a sub amp....Line converter isnt going to change the signal it gets so it wont matter if you do converter or tap the speaker outputs of the bose amp...

I dont know if you are confusing a basic speaker to line out convertor(LOC) vs a MOST50 interface since you mentioning not wanting to spend $450.

with regards to input from head unit to Bose Amp....it uses a MOST50 connection...think of the MOST50 like a digital input vs analog. Digital you can send many different signals down the line where analog is 1 to 1...


Just connect the front speaker outputs of the bose amp to the high level inputs of your sub amp...the signal you are getting wont go about 250-300hz...you may want to set your sub amp crossover a little lower...thats up to you





https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOST_Bus


if you want to tap the signal between head unit and Bose amp...you need to get a NAV or PAC unit like mentioned at the beginning of this thread...
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:48 AM   #34
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Just connect the front speaker outputs of the bose amp to the high level inputs of your sub amp...the signal you are getting wont go about 250-300hz...you may want to set your sub amp crossover a little lower...thats up to you
Okay that's what I'm confused on. If I tap the front speakers, will I have the amp able to play proper subwoofer freqs, (30-150hz)


If I just splice into the front speakers, using a speaker to RCA going directly into the amp (or speaker to LoC) then will I be good?

Or...am I not going to get the proper signal?
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:22 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by RideWithDanger View Post
Okay that's what I'm confused on. If I tap the front speakers, will I have the amp able to play proper subwoofer freqs, (30-150hz)


If I just splice into the front speakers, using a speaker to RCA going directly into the amp (or speaker to LoC) then will I be good?

Or...am I not going to get the proper signal?
You say this is a hobby for years? No offense, but we have explained this multiple times , its pretty straight forward.

if you JUST want to send an audio signal to your subwoofer:

1. preamp, without an interface, you can't.

2. postamp,
a. without an interface, you will get a modified Eq'd signal 30Hz ~250Hz
b. with an interface (PAC, Nav TV) you will get a full range flat signal
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:39 AM   #36
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That's what I wanted to know. The way it was being described wasn't clear but I'm also reading other forums where people are throwing out other info. Ill start with tapping into front speaker wires
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:48 AM   #37
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This thread is very helpful. This is the thread I needed when I started mine. I had to learn all this stuff from lots of sources. This thread should clear it up for the next person.
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:45 AM   #38
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The PAC has a high noise floor when using RCAs. I’m going to try the optical out next.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:53 PM   #39
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There is alot of info in this audio sub forum. Gotta go back a couple of years when there were a few people starting to do complete systems...upgrading the Bose system isnt cheap...but its much easier now with the PAC and NAV units than it was a couple of years ago..
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:32 PM   #40
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I stated earlier in my post that you have to de pin the harness to cut out the door mics, come to think about it, there might of been two wires, I cant remember and dont want to undo myzip ties, lol. So depin the last connector on your amp, before the brown connector, closest to your exhaust. Use a pass thru harness by sub thump so you can tap onto your speaker wires without actually tapping or cutting into any of them. Land one of them to you dsp, I used my front right speaker. That converts it to rca Jack's then just hook up to your amp and you are good to go. Bass knobs do wonders as you cant turn the sub up from the factory unit.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:53 AM   #41
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Unless 2019 changes anything (which it might as I'll have a 3LT) I won't have the ANC in my Camaro. But I may get the harness if I do. Either way, I'll be taking the front speaker wires and running them to an LC2i and then to my amp. And yes I will have a bass knob.

I'm still uncomfortable with spending that much money on a simple harness when I can splice the wires myself. But we will see.
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:16 AM   #42
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Yah, the harness is pricey, i looked around for another one, but theres' is all I could find. For plug and play though, I think it's still worth it. I dont mind splicing, but anytime I can avoid it I try. Every splice/connection is another chance of failure. Lmk how ot turns out, I love seeing other people's installs for ideas. This car, I wanted it to look as clean and stocking looking, usually I go all out and show them off haha.
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