[Perezl2576]

Hello everyone, this is my first post on this forum which I have seen help mannnyyy people and am so appreciative to be a part of it.

Here's my issue. I purchased aftermarket rims off a private party seller. I looked them up and they were made for BMWs and Camaros. So i purchased them. I went to a local tire/rim place in South Carolina and they sold me splined lug nuts with what looked like a sleeve/nipple at the end (I brought the rims to the store so they could see them). I purchased what they recommended. Fast forward a couple weeks after I installed them and decided to take them off so I could install upgraded rotors and brake pads, this is when my nightmare began.
I installed them manually with a breaker bar and then torqued using a manual and electronic torque wrench to spec, I did not use an impact gun whatsoever during install or removal.
During removal I noticed the lugs were coming off very hard, upon removal, I notice that the sleeve/nipple had broken off on the stud. I proceeded to remove the other 4 lug nuts and same issue. Im thinking o, never seen that before. SO i try to remove the rim, being that its just the sleeve thats broken off and the rim is stuck on the hub and will no t come off. I used PB plaster and a rubber mallet to try and smack it off and nothing, stuck. I even tried to lower the car off the stands to put the weight of the car o it without lug nuts on and same.

Did the tire place sell me the wrong lugs?
Are the rims not made for my car?(I emailed the company and no response for 3 weeks now, the rims are also a discontinued model).
The vehicle is currently at at the shop to see if they are able to get them removed.
Below are the specs for everything i have/used.

2019 2SS Camaro (Does not have mag ride)

Factory Wheel Specs:
Front Rim: 8.5J x20 ET25
Rear Rim: 10jx20 ET20
Center Bore 66.9mm
PCD: 5x120
Stud thread size: M14 x 1.5


Aftermarket Rims Specs:
Make: Concept One CS-10 5x120
Front Rim: 9jx20 ET 18
Rear Rim: 10.5jx20 ET25
Center Bore 72.56
PCD: 5x120

Aftermarket Lugs Used:
BIM 14x1.5 1.61" CL ZN 6L

Attached are pics.

[ctrlz]

This sounds like lug nuts have the wrong threads or possibly some kind of close size problem (metric vs SAE?).
How did they go on? I always spin my lug nuts by hand until they contact the wheel, then move to the wrench for torqueing.

Is it also possible the wheels moved against the sleeve region and weakened it, maybe forming a groove or actually shearing the nuts?

EDIT: I did a quick google on this. Likely causes are over-torqueing (sounds like you did NOT do this) or wobbly wheels. I would look at the backside of the wheels where they might have contacted the nuts. The pictures of your broken nuts look like wobble might be a factor.

[Alpha1BC]

Seems to me like it's just a poor combination of parts. Tough to tell based on pictures but I'm guessing there's an interference fit between the ID of the lug hole on the wheel and the OD of the extra thread shoulder on the nut. Threading the nuts on effectively pressed the shoulders into the wheel, likely causing a low clamp force at the conical surface when torqued to spec. Driving around like that would then over-strained the nut right at the base of the taper and caused them to shear off when you tried to remove.

If that's the case, the shop should be able to get them apart if they get creative with a pulley puller. I would opt for using lug nuts that don't have the shoulder at the bottom with those wheels going forward though. If you don't have at least 3-4 threads engaged without the extended shoulder the next step could be extended wheel studs or different wheels.

[Perezl2576]

Thanks yall, I appreciate it. When I put the lugs on, they went on smoothly and when I removed them , they didn't show any signs of cross threading per say, which is what I believe Ctrlz was referencing.
I also had the wheels inspected and balanced before I installed them. Once I started driving around, there seemed to be like a hub scrape noise, but from the rear, at certain speeds but no wobble while driving.
Im praying they can get the rims off without major work and that the tire company (major chain) will pay for the work. They've already had their claims department contact me.
I believe what Alpha1BC is what is looks like happened. I appreciate yall both for the info and will keep you posted as to that happens. Thanks!

[ctrlz]

Agree with all.
I would get the calipers out and do some thorough measurements of nuts and the holes on the wheels once you get stuff apart.

[GXP08jrf]

I don't see any witness marks on the conical portion of the broken nuts to indicate that the chamfered surfaces of the nut and wheel made any contact like they should.

This leads me to believe that the "pilot/sleeve" area of the nut is threaded (appears so from your picture), remains in contact with the chamfered surface of the wheel and is still maintaining clamping force preventing wheel removal.

That remaining portion will need to be removed. If you can find a nut extractor that's deep enough and the right diameter, this is where I'd start, All the other options for removal that I can think of are sure to mar up something (wheel or stud or both) due to the tight access to the offending pieces.

It may be very fortunate that you're finding this now. because the contact surface is so small, I'd doubt the interface could maintain integrity through thermal cycles and road forces.

IMHO, poor recommendation from the wheel shop.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by GXP08jrf

I don't see any witness marks on the conical portion of the broken nuts to indicate that the chamfered surfaces of the nut and wheel made any contact like they should.

Brilliant observation! And I'm adding "witness marks" to my back-pocket vocabulary.
Also spot-on in saying you are better off catching the problem this way.
Let us know how they get these removed.

Saw a vid on youtube where they drilled out the lug studs to solve a similar problem. That lets you remove the wheel and it becomes easier to remove the lug nut part which is jammed in there once the wheel is off the car. You do have to replace the studs, but this method saves the wheel from any damage.

[WhiteMale]

So those sheared off and that's what is holding the wheel on the hub...that's really messed up.

I want to say that there's a wheel I was thinking of buying but later found out that they use a specific lug nut, the OE aren't usable with that wheel...youre problem made me think of that but this looks like defective lug nuts.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by GXP08jrf

I don't see any witness marks on the conical portion of the broken nuts to indicate that the chamfered surfaces of the nut and wheel made any contact like they should.

This leads me to believe that the "pilot/sleeve" area of the nut is threaded (appears so from your picture), remains in contact with the chamfered surface of the wheel and is still maintaining clamping force preventing wheel removal.

That remaining portion will need to be removed. If you can find a nut extractor that's deep enough and the right diameter, this is where I'd start, All the other options for removal that I can think of are sure to mar up something (wheel or stud or both) due to the tight access to the offending pieces.

It may be very fortunate that you're finding this now. because the contact surface is so small, I'd doubt the interface could maintain integrity through thermal cycles and road forces.

IMHO, poor recommendation from the wheel shop.

I think your points are spot on.

Poor OP. Reading this alone sucks. I can only imagine how you feel. I hope this is a one-wheel issue but can't help but wonder if you have 3 other wheels with the same issue.

Now, perhaps you can drill out the stud from the outside. However, we're talking about hardened metal. I just question if it's even possible or how long that will take.

I think the alternate fix, and it ain't pretty, is removing the entire knuckle and wheel from the car and then working the studs off from the other side. Or maybe you drill out the holes of the wheels (destroying it in the process) then with enough room, you can get something clamped onto the remaining bolt sleeves.

Ugh. I haven't tried to google search this but boy, this ain't good. Truly sorry OP.

In the end, I do think the shop sold you the wrong stuff and it should be on them to provide a solution!

[Dabjbr]

Go to 3:30 in. Apparently you can drill out the stud. That said, the tip of the camaro studs are rounded. So, you'll probably have to put a nut back on the stud so that it helps center the drill bit.

Still a ton of work but I guess it's possible!

[DaveC113]

Wow, sorry to see this! Could be a nightmare to fix it, hope they can get the wheels off using a puller without destroying the wheels. If not drill out wheel studs from the back and press them out through the wheel. 1st is a lot of labor, 2nd is A LOT of labor, but imo there's no removing the remains of the lug nuts. I'd be interested to hear how this was handled...

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

Go to 3:30 in. Apparently you can drill out the stud. That said, the tip of the camaro studs are rounded. So, you'll probably have to put a nut back on the stud so that it helps center the drill bit.

Still a ton of work but I guess it's possible!

Same vid I saw.
This looks like the best idea. Sacrifice the studs to save the rest.

[Perezl2576]

Hey everyone, thanks for everyone chiming in. So all 4 rims have the same issue. I took it to a shop in my area who does a little bit of everything and they have not been able to get one rim off. They were trying to drill around the stud with what looks to be a hole saw and have been at it for 3 hours and no luck. At this point this shop has given up on it. They've tried everything to pull /wedge it off with no luck. I recommended a puller as someone recommended in here but they felt the puller or rim would break. So at this point I have no idea what to do. I may just bring it home and drill the studs out myself. Im so frustrated right now, especially since no one wants to do the job.

[DaveC113]

I think someone is going to have to remove the hubs from the vehicle, drill or burn the backside of the wheels studs off and then press them out from the back end. So much labor it may be cheaper to destroy the wheels.

The shop that sold you the lug nuts is going to have some liability for this imo.