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Old 06-16-2020, 08:20 AM   #1
ss2fast4u
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tsp engine hp curiosity

Just curious with people installing tsp short blocks or long blocks like a 416 or even stock size are they noticing a hp jump with everything else staying the same?


I know there are alot of variables like cam but was more just a general question.
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Old 06-16-2020, 09:21 AM   #2
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Well - HP is all about the variables more so than the short block. The cam specs, heads, intake manifold, fueling, boost or N/A, exhaust system, tuning - all those things drive the final HP number.

Only the compression ratio (choice of piston top shape) and the displacement size will drive HP numbers when it comes to an aftermarket short block. The rest is driven by the other variables.

The reason to buy an aftermarket short block is so you can have a strong and reliable platform that can handle the variable decisions you make that in turn create high HP (especially boost applications such as supercharging or turbos).
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Old 06-16-2020, 09:40 AM   #3
ss2fast4u
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great response thank you













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Originally Posted by SSDan View Post
Well - HP is all about the variables more so than the short block. The cam specs, heads, intake manifold, fueling, boost or N/A, exhaust system, tuning - all those things drive the final HP number.

Only the compression ratio (choice of piston top shape) and the displacement size will drive HP numbers when it comes to an aftermarket short block. The rest is driven by the other variables.

The reason to buy an aftermarket short block is so you can have a strong and reliable platform that can handle the variable decisions you make that in turn create high HP (especially boost applications such as supercharging or turbos).
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:50 AM   #4
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Hp is made in the Heads...the Cam and Intake manifold influence the power curve. The late John Lingenfelter always said a great set of heads pair'd with small cam will produce better results then poor heads with a big cam. You can not fill a larger cylinder bore with enough air to maximize it's potential with a stock head. A stock top end stroker motor would likely result in worse performance compared to a factory LT1. It might feel stronger down low, but likely perform worse up top since it has to swing those longer rods around and its overall efficiency is reduced...GM spent a lot of time and money R&D these engines. Increasing displaecment without increasing the ability to flow more air is a mistake. Engines are air pumps...nothing more, nothing less. You need more air flow and fuel to make more power.


Most aftermarket short blocks have some components inferior to stock unless you spend big bucks to upgrade the base rod and crank options. A stock crank, GPI rod/piston combo is imo a much better solution then a base 416ci stroker short block package from TSP.
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Old 06-16-2020, 11:32 AM   #5
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As everyone else is saying... You can't throw stock stuff on a stroker and expect trophies.

For example, a LT1 stock cam in a 6.2 would spec out big on a 5.7, and lightly small on a 6.8. A cam with a lot of lift/duration/overlap that would run good at 3500-7000 in a 350 might be good for 2500-5500 in a 6.6.

Same thing with heads/intake. More cubes needs more air.

The intake/exhaust system has to be engineered for the motor cubes and RPM band it will be used in.
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Old 06-16-2020, 11:42 AM   #6
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GPI rod/piston combo def will be next mod down the road plus it makes sense to do cam and heads at the same time



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Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
Hp is made in the Heads...the Cam and Intake manifold influence the power curve. The late John Lingenfelter always said a great set of heads pair'd with small cam will produce better results then poor heads with a big cam. You can not fill a larger cylinder bore with enough air to maximize it's potential with a stock head. A stock top end stroker motor would likely result in worse performance compared to a factory LT1. It might feel stronger down low, but likely perform worse up top since it has to swing those longer rods around and its overall efficiency is reduced...GM spent a lot of time and money R&D these engines. Increasing displaecment without increasing the ability to flow more air is a mistake. Engines are air pumps...nothing more, nothing less. You need more air flow and fuel to make more power.


Most aftermarket short blocks have some components inferior to stock unless you spend big bucks to upgrade the base rod and crank options. A stock crank, GPI rod/piston combo is imo a much better solution then a base 416ci stroker short block package from TSP.
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Old 06-16-2020, 01:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss2fast4u View Post
GPI rod/piston combo def will be next mod down the road plus it makes sense to do cam and heads at the same time
If you are staying NA then there is no need to touch the bottom end. You have a mill capable of handling more power then you will likely make NA. These engines are stout as is. The ring gaps are a bit tight for boost, but they will handle 10-11psi if the attention to detail and tuning is on point.
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:59 AM   #8
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Not sure I agree with all the comments. Standard hot rod fare was always build the biggest engine you could. Adding 40 cu in equates to 40 HP in a 1 HP per cube. Now a days we are above that.

Likely most aftermarket rods are lighter and more durable than OEM powder metal parts. Pistons are also not in the same ballpark.

Data point: I did engage TSP on their 416 shortblocks and they stated 7500 rpm is no issue.

The torque curve will only go up...HP will certainly not drop...likely just peak at a lower rpm.

Admittedly, blown applications seem to ultimately have other limitations (fueling).

I'd likely go this way if my current LT1 expires.
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Old 06-17-2020, 12:28 PM   #9
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I picked up a little over 100hp by doing a TSP 427 with near stock compression and a swapped the cam from a TSP vvt-1 to a custom cam from them while everything else stayed the same.
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Old 06-17-2020, 04:47 PM   #10
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I have a lt4 blower with lt4 fueling and jms voltage booster tuned by JRE running about 11lbs right now.





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Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
If you are staying NA then there is no need to touch the bottom end. You have a mill capable of handling more power then you will likely make NA. These engines are stout as is. The ring gaps are a bit tight for boost, but they will handle 10-11psi if the attention to detail and tuning is on point.
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Old 06-18-2020, 12:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss2fast4u View Post
I have a lt4 blower with lt4 fueling and jms voltage booster tuned by JRE running about 11lbs right now.
Your sig wasn't showing up...I forgot you were FI. Drop in package for sure.
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