[VinnAY]

I've never once obeyed a manual about break-in and I've never had brake work done, they don't burn oil, never replaced a clutch or lost a tranny. Break in is a myth...they expect you want it so they give it to you. Same with this Dexos2 oil...give me a break.

[Jon1972s]

I dont run mine HARD but i do run it harder than break in recommendation, minding not to really keep it running high rpms. My contention is why doesnt the computer govern the car to 4000 rpm for 1500 miles? That would be an easy code to write.It is easy to give it more than you should.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Jon1972s

I dont run mine HARD but i do run it harder than break in recommendation, minding not to really keep it running high rpms. My contention is why doesnt the computer govern the car to 4000 rpm for 1500 miles? That would be an easy code to write.It is easy to give it more than you should.

I prefer my own brain "code" to govern the car And have all the power just in case, as in an emergency maneuver. But, for those that wish for a computer to manage them: there is a valet mode...
On a serious note, the long break in requirement is for an e-diff and confirmed as such right in the manual. Anyone that suggests otherwise, misses a key point here, given a properly operating e-diff is absolutely critical to the car's fantastic handling properties.
Most track rats change ediff fluid after a break in period and then again after a first track event. Given a black sludge and volume of metal shavings that come out: it is easy to understand why the break in period.
Cheers!

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Dvs510

So I’ve always thought it was 1500 miles for break in period. Then I saw this while looking up something else. Anybody have more info or thoughts on it?Attachment 947616

Hennessey dyno'd mine with 400 miles on it, so...

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by JSH

Hennessey dyno'd mine with 400 miles on it, so...

Close enough to 500 miles. John beats up on cars very early, yet it is straight line runs and they are not his cars per se
Oh well....

[GlassMan45]

Will your warranty be voided if you do not follow the break procedure written in the manual?

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by Traumamoma

My tuner (very reputable and experienced) told me that as long as you change the fluids religiously, you should drive it HARD, from the get go and it will make more horsepower down the road. Admittedly a VERY controversial topic...

Wow, that guy should get hired as an engineer for GM, he's got it all figured out!

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

Wow, that guy should get hired as an engineer for GM, he's got it all figured out!

LOL!

To the poster above, the break in procedure is mainly for the benefit of ELSD vs motor. It is very evident during a first fluid change, which comes out as tar with plenty of metal particles captured by the magnets. That's also why GM recommends to change fluid after the first track day.

Beware of "very experienced " tuners, who focus on motors and are not familiar with a complete drive train and their break in dynamics. Will GM void a warranty? Cannot answer this question. But regardless, why potentially eff things up regardless who pays for it? Cheers!

[GlassMan45]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

LOL!

To the poster above, the break in procedure is mainly for the benefit of ELSD vs motor. It is very evident during a first fluid change, which comes out as tar with plenty of metal particles captured by the magnets. That's also why GM recommends to change fluid after the first track day.

Beware of "very experienced " tuners, who focus on motors and are not familiar with a complete drive train and their break in dynamics. Will GM void a warranty? Cannot answer this question. But regardless, why potentially eff things up regardless who pays for it? Cheers!

Looking for your thoughts on a few issues.

So according to OP's original post, an oil change at 500 miles is needed, but it does not say anything about changing it again at 1500. Is an oil change needed at 1500 miles if you are not tracking it?

Also, that document disagrees with the manual about the number of miles where you shouldn't exceed 4K rpms (500 vs 1500). Which is correct?

Lastly, it says nothing about not going over 80 mph like the manual does. Again, is this document correct or the manual?

[ZPirate]

Originally Posted by GlassMan45

Looking for your thoughts on a few issues.

So according to OP's original post, an oil change at 500 miles is needed, but it does not say anything about changing it again at 1500. Is an oil change needed at 1500 miles if you are not tracking it?

Also, that document disagrees with the manual about the number of miles where you shouldn't exceed 4K rpms (500 vs 1500). Which is correct?

Lastly, it says nothing about not going over 80 mph like the manual does. Again, is this document correct or the manual?

I don't think you are going to find a definitive answer to your questions. There are many different opinions about what is best. It really boils down to what you think is best for your vehicle and how you plan to use it. I went by the Track Prep guide rather than the manual. The 1LE is designed for the track straight from the factory. So I followed the guide, kept the engine revs at 4k and below for the first 500 miles and changed the oil at 500 miles (and then again at 1500 miles). I also changed the differential fluid at 1500 miles. Both the guide and the manual reference 1500 miles so I used that number for the total break in. After 1500 miles the car is supposed to be ready for the track. Some people will argue that changing the oil twice in the first 1500 miles is overkill, but its cheap insurance. So is changing the differential fluid. Others will argue that you shouldn't exceed 4k for the first 1500 miles and not go over a certain speed or use cruise control during the first 1500 miles. And on and on.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by GlassMan45

Looking for your thoughts on a few issues.

So according to OP's original post, an oil change at 500 miles is needed, but it does not say anything about changing it again at 1500. Is an oil change needed at 1500 miles if you are not tracking it?

Also, that document disagrees with the manual about the number of miles where you shouldn't exceed 4K rpms (500 vs 1500). Which is correct?

Lastly, it says nothing about not going over 80 mph like the manual does. Again, is this document correct or the manual?

The post above pretty much outlines what I had done for both my 1LEs. Basically followed the manual break in period, plus extra oil change at 500. Being patient for 1500 miles is a small price to pay, to ensure all components break in properly. Ditto one extra oil change, which is an extra insurance and completely inconsequential cost wise, when one looks at a cost of tracking a car overall. Hope this helps. Enjoy and have fun! Cheers!

[GlassMan45]

Thanks for the replies ZPirate and TrackClub!

I agree that it is a small price to pay to go through the full 1500 mile break in period to ensure good performance throughout the life of the car. My questions were aimed at learning the best way to break in my new SS (not a 1LE and will not be tracked), but I see your points that there are differing opinions on that issue. My guess is that even if it is overkill, it cannot hurt the car to keep it below 4K rpms and 80 mph for the first 1500 miles.

Cheers!

[Newcastle]

Well if it was that simple everyone would just follow the directions. The kicker is engine builders say you have to set the rings the first 500 miles so thats one of the concernes I have seen. I think I will do a few high rpm pulls to make sure. Others will say your voiding your warranty. Its a real head scratcher for sure...lol

[Gunkk]

Going easy on the differential for the first few hundred miles is a good thing. Taking the car to the track straight from the dealer lot with 100 miles is gonna do more harm than good. Let the asperities on the gears smooth out a bit and build up a good work hardened mating surface before you start blasting 'em with full torque. The metallurgy has changed for the better, but surface physics has not. It's not too much unlike breaking in old style flat tappet cams... had to go easy at first to let the metal work-harden, and if you didn't you ground it to dust; and sometimes it just happened anyway.

Now this is the opposite of what you want to do with the rings and cylinders. You want the asperities removed and metal hammered flat BEFORE it hardens (the metal is different so it needs different treatment). Granny-driving the engine at low RPM for the first 1500 miles is not what you want to do.

I recommend you look up the crate motor break in guide (oh here it is!) and follow the directions starting at step # 6. Steps 1-5 were done for you by the factory. IMO, one oil change at 500 miles is sufficient (not both).