[HawkeyeMike]

Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, but it seems that the alignment posts on here don't answer my basic question: in order to go from stock alignment to the recommended track alignment, I would like to know exactly how this gets done on stock 1LEs (mine is a 2020 2SS 1LE if that makes any difference).

I can see on the rear, there are camber bolts in what I'm guessing are the inside of the trailing arms. So, the rear looks easy. But, on the fronts, there are no camber bolts that I can see. Does the shock tower need dropped and rotated? And if so, how to do fine tune adjustments?

Are there instructions floating around out there that someone could link to?

The reason I'm asking, when I took my 2017 2SS (non 1LE) to the shop to get the track alignment, they told me that they couldn't adjust the camber on the front. And, since I didn't know anything about it, I couldn't have an intelligent conversation with them about it. I'd like to be fully educated now so when I take the new car in, I can stand there and direct them if they don't have any clue.

So, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Mike

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeMike

Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, but it seems that the alignment posts on here don't answer my basic question: in order to go from stock alignment to the recommended track alignment, I would like to know exactly how this gets done on stock 1LEs (mine is a 2020 2SS 1LE if that makes any difference).

I can see on the rear, there are camber bolts in what I'm guessing are the inside of the trailing arms. So, the rear looks easy. But, on the fronts, there are no camber bolts that I can see. Does the shock tower need dropped and rotated? And if so, how to do fine tune adjustments?

Are there instructions floating around out there that someone could link to?

The reason I'm asking, when I took my 2017 2SS (non 1LE) to the shop to get the track alignment, they told me that they couldn't adjust the camber on the front. And, since I didn't know anything about it, I couldn't have an intelligent conversation with them about it. I'd like to be fully educated now so when I take the new car in, I can stand there and direct them if they don't have any clue.

So, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Mike

As posted previously by Ryephile:

Loosen the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts
-->Here's the important part that average shops can't seem to wrap their head around:
*Hammer the bolt a little bit to loosen it from the knuckle. Splines on the bolt OD grip the knuckle otherwise making the alignment nearly impossible. If you don't get the 2 strut bolts loose, the alignment isn't going to happen without...guess what...that stupid "adjustment bolt".
*adjust to taste - snug up strut bolts. You can choose to have the strut bolts "kinda snug" to hold the relationship until it's adjusted satisfactorily. The "adjustment bolt" can kind of help here, but it only limits movement in one direction, meaning the alignment can still drift the other way until the 2 strut bolts are snugged up.
*check alignment, torque strut bolts, verify alignment.

_________per Ryephile_________

[HawkeyeMike]

Thanks! I just found that thread and looked through it. I wonder if the shop I used on the 2017 just didn't know they needed to fully back those bolts out to take the splines out of play...
I may mess with this in my shop and pull the camber to max negative myself, then take it in for fine tuning. I would hope that my toe wouldn't be so bad that a 20 mile drive to the alignment shop would hurt much?

[Hops]

here's my DIY on a front alignment:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560773

[HawkeyeMike]

Yes, it was after reading through your thread that gave me the confidence I could do this myself. Thanks for sharing!

Mike

[Boost Creep]

Any changes in camber will require toe to be adjusted.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeMike

Yes, it was after reading through your thread that gave me the confidence I could do this myself. Thanks for sharing!

Mike

I maxed the front camber myself after Firestone's first attempt only got me -1.8 but one side was about -0.5 greater than the other after maxing it resulting in a slight pull to one side while driving.

They had to redo one side anyways when I brought it back in for fine tuning so it was a waste of time to do it myself.
I ended up with -2.4 front although one side could go farther. The tech used a bolt threaded into the helper bolt hole to adjust the camber precisely while watching the digital readout for that wheel. Plus they can do it with the wheels on using the alignment rack which takes less time/effort than diy with the wheels off if you find a tech who knows how to do it or will read/listen to your instructions and/or pictured steps from the diy.

Also GM says the 4 rear bolts should be replaced every time the rear alignment is changed but many people/shops don't do that.

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Also GM says the 4 rear bolts should be replaced every time the rear alignment is changed but many people/shops don't do that.

Does it really? My rear toe stays in place pretty well after being massaged by PepBoys.

[cdrptrks]

Yep.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502324