02-15-2018, 10:04 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 693
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Next steps... new project
After pulling my SBE LS3 to put in my GTO, and I just sold the Huron Single Kit, I am starting a new project for the Camaro.
here is the plan... Engine: TSP LS3 427ci (Weisco slugs, TSP crank, Callies rods, ARP 2000 and Mainstuds) 10:1 SCR AI280CC LS3 heads/BTR.660 Ti 235/231 .6XX/.6XX 115LSA (may change this, but worked really well on the single setup). OE Lifters LS3 rockers with Straub Trunnion upgrade Melling Oil pump (hi volume) Fuel: 93 octane 1000CC injectors ZL1 Pump ADM FPCM Alky Control Dual Nozzle Kit (15+5) - May go up on the 2nd nozzle. I made 817rwhp on 376ci at 60% DC when running meth, so there is a little more room, but it wont get me to 1000rwhp. I know I will need to change out the pump at some point, but for now I am gonna run it and just make whatever power I can while supplementing with meth. Power Added: Twin Turbo Low mount Huron or AGP (undecided) Probably something in the ballpark of 60/62 turbos Ignition: Granatelli coils (already have them) br8's Wires TBD Tranny: Stock M6 tranny Street Slayer Billet Twin New Slave Tick speed bleeder Rear: Stock for now 3.45 gears DSS aluminum 1 piece driveshaft Tires: 20x11 Nitto 305/35-20 NT05R Didnt hook worth a shit with the single kit on low power, so I will be upgrading to something with a little more sidewall. I just dont want to have to ditch the rear stock brakes... so I think 17" wheel is the smallest I can go. Obviously there are lots of things I should upgrade and build for strength (fuel system, tranny and rear), and as money comes I will do that. For now I need a new motor and turbo setup, so that is the focus first. Last edited by RealQuick; 02-15-2018 at 11:14 AM. |
02-15-2018, 10:43 AM | #2 |
Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 13 Camaro LSX434 TT M6, 21 ZLE A10 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,605
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The setup looks good. Ya, the NT05R's didn't work out well for me. The M/T R's have been awesome.
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In excess of 1,000WHP LSX434 | AGP 65/65 TT | BTR Equalizer Intake | Trickflow 245cc cathedral | BTR custom cam | Cortex EBC | n2mb WOT | ID-1700x | Brisk GR12S | RPM Lv 7 TR6060 | AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel | Monster LT1-S Triple | 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles | Hurst Line Lock | MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle | ADM solid subframe mounts | Prothane Motor Mounts | Revshift Poly Trans insert | Moreno camber/caster plates |
02-15-2018, 11:13 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 693
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02-15-2018, 01:14 PM | #4 |
Drives: All things Turbocharged Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,199
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29" M/T ET Street R on an 18" rim fits and works pretty good all around. Same tire on a 15" is insane strait line traction but a wobbly, bouncy, shit handling bitch. At 200mph, they will help you find Jesus.
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02-15-2018, 01:16 PM | #5 |
Drives: All things Turbocharged Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,199
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Is that engine a 4.1" stroke?
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02-15-2018, 01:36 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro (M6) 1000+ HP SBE Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,391
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LOL
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F-1X, Cog Drive, ATI Super Pulley/Sprag ~ 19 psi
Blower Cam Brodix BP BR 3 Heads Kooks LT Headers and full 3" exhaust Fore Triple Pump Fuel System with ID 1700X Injectors - E85 conversion DSS 9” Conversion (1400 hp axles, driveshaft, pumpkin) & Strange 3.70 gears McLeod RXT Twin HD Clutch & Upgraded Slave RPM Level VII TR6060 BMR Drag Suspension Package w/Strange shocks Carlyle 15" and M/T ET Street R radials 10.1 @ 143 mph 1/4 mile |
02-15-2018, 02:26 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 2SS LS3, 2013 duramax Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Dover, De
Posts: 1,451
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Might want to reconsider the 427 ls3 with boost. Probably look into a fuel system and bigger injectors also.
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ECS Ysi-B, cam, Tsp 2" longtubes, Squash dual pumps, Id1300s, meth, 4L80e, FTI 3600, ZL1 3.73 diff, BMR suspension, 15" conversion, weld rts mt 275 et street R. 9.6@147mph
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02-15-2018, 02:37 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin
Posts: 439
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Boosted 427 is a bad idea. Id rather keep a stock crank and put in TSP I beam rods and a CP carillo piston. Better bang for buck combo imho.
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02-15-2018, 02:58 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 693
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02-15-2018, 03:00 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 693
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02-15-2018, 03:04 PM | #11 |
700RWHP-650TQ
Drives: 2011 Forged LS3 Supercharged/Cammed Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Shrewsbury Massachusetts
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I don't know why but I've never heard anything good about boosting an LS7.
Most takes the LS3 and bore it out to a 416 stroker and forge away a monster
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View Build HERE>>>>>MY 2011 2SS/RS JOURNAL |
02-15-2018, 03:05 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin
Posts: 439
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With the longer stroke you are getting more extreme rod angles and as a result you are going to be putting extra stress on the bottom halves of the already short sleeves. Over time the sleeves will begin to oval in shape and eventually you will have a failure. Will this happen in 5k miles or 100k miles. dont know but it will wear out a motor MUCH faster. Id NEVER go more than a 4" stroke on a stock block LS motor. I prefer the stock 3.622 stroke.
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02-15-2018, 03:08 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin
Posts: 439
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Reason boosted ls7's are bad for boost is the cylinder walls in an ls7 are thinner than the walls in a cheap hotel room. 7psi is about the limit lol
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02-15-2018, 03:09 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
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Crank stroke vs. cylinder sleeve length.
The 4.1 stroke pulls the piston farther down the sleeve. Has it been done before? Yes. Does it always blow up the engine? No. Will the earth tilt off it's axis and hurtle into space, killing everyone? No, but it might destroy your bank account if you have to rebuild again. If you were NA, I'd say yes as there are a few builds on here that have successfully done it. I'd go with a 4" crank and have a 416-418. The 9-11 cubic inches you lose will never be missed and you'll have a better setup for big HP. I can't find it but I've seen a chart that shows the different block (OEM and aftermarket) sleeve lengths. If you got creative with a 6.098 rod and piston pin placement, you might be better off. Still, I'd go 4" crank and not worry at all. |
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