[19 2SS]

I currently have a whipple/catless longtubes, an axle back and lt4 fuel system and the car is only making 557whp 575 tq, what kind of gains do you guys think I’d make with a rotofab big gulp and a bigger TB, I figure it’ll really let the car breathe compared to the stock SS intake and get good results. The only reason I’m debating on doing it is because of the cost of having it retuned.. I want it to be worth it. Would love to hear what you guys are making with similar setups

[toohighpsi]

Here were my findings with a 103mm and the standard Rototfab.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=487611

I doubt the big gulp will provide additional benefit at a power level <750 RWHP. (but that's what I would get anyway for "future proofing")

[KingLT1]

I had to add 2-3% of fuel up top to maintain the same AFR after I installed the Big Gulp. That tells me the engine is making more power. I am guessing 15-25whp coming from a stock airbox on your setup...bigger gains to be had with more aggressive setups.

[thebanks06]

Honestly big gulp wouldnt be beneficial until you get in the 700 range

[Jhunsberger]

Consider this (more info below): Long tube (was already catless which netted me +23/+4), NW 103 TB and big gulp = +34rwhp & +23 tq. Alot of $ for minimal gains.

-------------------

Spent some time the other day and figured out the progression of my build, see below. I know this will help others out decide on mods and whats worth it and what is NOT for the gains.

2017 Camaro SS M6

(rwhp/rwtq)
OS = Over Stock
OP = Over Previous Setup

Complete Street Performance / Dynojet

Stock
417/428

Stock Tuned
429/440
+12/12 OS

Whipple 3.50 pulley, LT4 HPFP, LT4 Injectors, RotoFab Dry, Stock exhaust w/ Cats
597/591
+180/163 OS
+168/151 OP (stock tuned)

Previous Plus: NEP Cat Delete Pipes (primary & Secondary)
620/595
+203/167 OS
+23/4 OP

Previous Plus: Borla Atak, Borla Resonator, Kooks 2” LTH, NW 103 TB, RotoFab Big Gulp, Granatelli Plug Wires, Gforce AL DS, DSS Axles
654/618
+237/190 OS
+34/23 OP

***This step was very costly and yield little results for the $ spent***

Retuned by EFX/Mustang Dyno
688/632

I went and got it retuned by EFX after talking to them about the bog issue and the torque management. Also there was a rough/weird spot down low i didnt like. Both were taken care of. Perhaps I could next look back and try and match up best 1/4 mile on each setup.

[laynlo15]

Actually I was just talking to Mike that owns Roto-Fab a few days ago and that discussion came up. You are better off with the 4" unless you are at least 700 rwhp. That's from his mouth and he should know since he designed both of them. You just aren't moving enough air at your boost level and HP level to make it worth the extra money. I made well over 700 rwhp with my 2300 Maggie and a 4" Roto-Fab. Now that said results may very.

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Actually I was just talking to Mike that owns Roto-Fab a few days ago and that discussion came up. You are better off with the 4" unless you are at least 700 rwhp. That's from his mouth and he should know since he designed both of them. You just aren't moving enough air at your boost level and HP level to make it worth the extra money. I made well over 700 rwhp with my 2300 Maggie and a 4" Roto-Fab. Now that said results may very.

Interesting, so am I able to put in the 4” rotofab on without any tuning? Currently have the stock intake. Any whp difference over stock intake?

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by Jhunsberger

Consider this (more info below): Long tube (was already catless which netted me +23/+4), NW 103 TB and big gulp = +34rwhp & +23 tq. Alot of $ for minimal gains.

-------------------

Spent some time the other day and figured out the progression of my build, see below. I know this will help others out decide on mods and whats worth it and what is NOT for the gains.

2017 Camaro SS M6

(rwhp/rwtq)
OS = Over Stock
OP = Over Previous Setup

Complete Street Performance / Dynojet

Stock
417/428

Stock Tuned
429/440
+12/12 OS

Whipple 3.50 pulley, LT4 HPFP, LT4 Injectors, RotoFab Dry, Stock exhaust w/ Cats
597/591
+180/163 OS
+168/151 OP (stock tuned)

Previous Plus: NEP Cat Delete Pipes (primary & Secondary)
620/595
+203/167 OS
+23/4 OP

Previous Plus: Borla Atak, Borla Resonator, Kooks 2” LTH, NW 103 TB, RotoFab Big Gulp, Granatelli Plug Wires, Gforce AL DS, DSS Axles
654/618
+237/190 OS
+34/23 OP

***This step was very costly and yield little results for the $ spent***

Retuned by EFX/Mustang Dyno
688/632

I went and got it retuned by EFX after talking to them about the bog issue and the torque management. Also there was a rough/weird spot down low i didnt like. Both were taken care of. Perhaps I could next look back and try and match up best 1/4 mile on each setup.

Thanks for this, very relevant info!

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by 19 2SS

Interesting, so am I able to put in the 4” rotofab on without any tuning? Currently have the stock intake. Any whp difference over stock intake?

I would recommend it but you may be able to get by without it. Contact your tuner for his opinion. You are going to move more air with the Roto-Fab so may need a little tweaking.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I had to add 2-3% of fuel up top to maintain the same AFR after I installed the Big Gulp. That tells me the engine is making more power. I am guessing 15-25whp coming from a stock airbox on your setup...bigger gains to be had with more aggressive setups.

I experienced something similar, too. No change except the BG. That was moving from the standard RF to BG, just to be clear.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by radz28

I experienced something similar, too. No change except the BG. That was moving from the standard RF to BG, just to be clear.

Yep and logic tells me if the engine wants more fuel in order to maintain the same target AFR then it's flowing more air and making more power. I don't believe my car is over 700whp either and it gained power coming from a standard BG.

Does that mean you can't make power through a 4"...nope. You can make power through stock intake, tb, and exhaust...All you do is add boost to over come restrictions which reduces efficiency, creates more heat, and puts more strain on parts. I like the idea of power through efficiency.

[Tim M]

Mr Jannetty mentioned my OEMish LT1/4 would gain very little if any between the two. But what would happen is the resolution of the airflow signal would be reduced for the MAF possibly impacting driveability. This outweighed the benefits on my ~650 CHP engine.

I chose the standard RF...although I have yet to install!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I had to add 2-3% of fuel up top to maintain the same AFR after I installed the Big Gulp. That tells me the engine is making more power. I am guessing 15-25whp coming from a stock airbox on your setup...bigger gains to be had with more aggressive setups.

This is not due to more Airflow, it is due to weaker MAF signal due to larger pipe diameter.

The MAF only takes a sample out of the entire area, so each time you move the MAF to a larger pipe you will have to add fuel via the MAF calibration to compensate for the lower percentage of sample.

We don't move to a big gulp until 800+ RWHP

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by 19 2SS

I currently have a whipple/catless longtubes, an axle back and lt4 fuel system and the car is only making 557whp 575 tq, what kind of gains do you guys think I’d make with a rotofab big gulp and a bigger TB, I figure it’ll really let the car breathe compared to the stock SS intake and get good results. The only reason I’m debating on doing it is because of the cost of having it retuned.. I want it to be worth it. Would love to hear what you guys are making with similar setups

I do like our 95mm conversion kit moving from the 87mm on any 6th gen N/A or SC so Yes.

The big gulp will net you nothing at this power level.

I am sure there is more to be had in the tuning Your combo should easily make 600-625 RWHP on 93 octane

Ted.