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Old 06-26-2022, 12:26 PM   #15
22SS1LE
 
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dont use dawn. use a proper strip wash like CarPro reset or Gyeon restart or Makes 37 coating prep wash.
Dawn can mess up some of your moldings or trim and can possible strip out the oils in them and dry them out. So you could make them look faded much faster by using dawn
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Old 06-26-2022, 12:37 PM   #16
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Interesting - good to know
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Old 06-27-2022, 12:42 PM   #17
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Here is my input from someone who has detailed many cars, and I have been to several classes.

ONLY clay bar if you plan on polishing afterwards. If you already enjoy the finish your car came with, IE swirl free and glossy, then you do not need to clay or polish. If you want a glass smoosh paint finish, to the touch only and not visually, by all means clay bar.

If you want the paint to pop a little more, you should use a mild cut polish like Sonax Perfect Finish.

As far as ceramic coating goes I was taught it was great for lazy people or those who don't fret over the finish of their car too much. These individuals like to run their cars through the automatic wash. They don't really care if their car has swirls as long as it's clean. A ceramic coating is perfect for them because it will last about a year, and they'll enjoy the convenience of a car that's even easier to clean and keep clean.

Those who really care about their finish can go both ways. If you're the type of wants to touch up every rock chip, scratch, swirl, etc. Wax would be the way to go because you can easily prep the area for repair. With a coating you have to polish away the coating before you can start working with the area being corrected and now you have no coating there. With wax you just need to reapply it after repairing the paint.

The short winded version is if you are willing to put in the work to maintain a ceramic coating properly they are great. If you enjoy washing your car regularly, like the "wet" look of wax than a sealant or wax is perfect for you.
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Old 06-27-2022, 01:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostamoose View Post
Here is my input from someone who has detailed many cars, and I have been to several classes.

ONLY clay bar if you plan on polishing afterwards. If you already enjoy the finish your car came with, IE swirl free and glossy, then you do not need to clay or polish. If you want a glass smoosh paint finish, to the touch only and not visually, by all means clay bar.

If you want the paint to pop a little more, you should use a mild cut polish like Sonax Perfect Finish.

As far as ceramic coating goes I was taught it was great for lazy people or those who don't fret over the finish of their car too much. These individuals like to run their cars through the automatic wash. They don't really care if their car has swirls as long as it's clean. A ceramic coating is perfect for them because it will last about a year, and they'll enjoy the convenience of a car that's even easier to clean and keep clean.

Those who really care about their finish can go both ways. If you're the type of wants to touch up every rock chip, scratch, swirl, etc. Wax would be the way to go because you can easily prep the area for repair. With a coating you have to polish away the coating before you can start working with the area being corrected and now you have no coating there. With wax you just need to reapply it after repairing the paint.

The short winded version is if you are willing to put in the work to maintain a ceramic coating properly they are great. If you enjoy washing your car regularly, like the "wet" look of wax than a sealant or wax is perfect for you.
I disagree with pretty much most of this.
I have been doing this for 15+ years and have used a bunch of coatings on my cars any been around the block.

Most new cars can benefit from a claying.
They will pick up embedded rail dust and other fallout. It is usually mild so you can use a very mild clay to clean it up.
By using very fine clay and proper lubrication you can do little to no marring. Pretty much when you get nasty swirls from paint claying is if the paint is very contaminated or aggressive clay is used or improper lubrication.

If you want to try and skip the actualy physical claying then you should do an Iron removing spray and wash the car followed by a tar removing spray.

ceramic coatings I dont know where you heard are for lazy people. Ceramic coating isnt for just tossing on and taking through car washes.
Its more for the person who wants to protect their paint from harsh chemicals they encounter on the roads and helps with cleaning it easier. it protects from salt in winters and when you wash it the contact angle of the water is so nice and high that you can use a leaf blower and blow off the entire car in a few mins and means less towel drying which in terms means less contact with the paint that could scratch it from improper drying.

90% of swirls and scratches are from improper washing and drying.
Never dry the paint with just water. Always use a drying aid to add lubrication so there is less chance to induce any type of scratching.

Unless your driving behind a sandblaster I dont know why you need so much paint chip touch-up. I have never had any issues with using touch-up on a paint chip with a ceramic coating. Because the coating is gone where the paint is gone. So no clue why you are polishing to do a proper paint chip repair like from Dr Colorchip.

What is all this talk of this crazy maintenance you have to do with coatings?
Just proper washing with correct washing products. and every few months hit it with a reset shampoo like Carpro reset or Gyeon restart and some Iron remover and it will unclog the coating of any road buildup. Doesn't take much more work than a typical car wash.
If you are washing the car 100% wrong with crap products crap towels and crap technique then coating or not your car is going to look like shit.
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Old 06-27-2022, 01:14 PM   #19
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do it factory paint is shit nowadays
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Old 06-28-2022, 08:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22SS1LE View Post
What is all this talk of this crazy maintenance you have to do with coatings?
Just proper washing with correct washing products. and every few months hit it with a reset shampoo like Carpro reset or Gyeon restart and some Iron remover and it will unclog the coating of any road buildup. Doesn't take much more work than a typical car wash.
If you are washing the car 100% wrong with crap products crap towels and crap technique then coating or not your car is going to look like shit.

Most professionally applied ceramic coatings require maintenance in order for the warranty to be valid.


For example, this place:
https://ceramicpro.com/aftercare/
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Old 06-28-2022, 10:32 PM   #21
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My $.02... I've paid a professional to work on my last few new cars (polish + anything else needed) and it's a night and day difference. It's fine to DIY but I don't want to take the time, either way I highly recommend a full polishing and coating application on any new car, work it in with PPF application too. I did PPF myself but that was difficult and time consuming, I can see why it would have been a few grand. IMO modern paint is all too soft not to use it on at least some places on the car. Also depends on where you drive, some mt roads will sandblast your front end.

I hand wash, but it's hard to beat the SiO2 sealants, and it's built into the car wash soap in some brands, which makes it no more labor than a regular wash. It costs a lot more vs a simple car wash soap because you use a lot more of it per wash, but it's insignificant imo. I've used both the CarPro and Turtle Wax SiO2 products (wash and QD spray) and they are both fine. I normally use a Chem Guys high gloss soap, then use the SiO2 soap every 4-5 washes or once I notice the hydrophobic properties of the ceramic coating declining. I own quality carnuba waxes and am old enough to remember the wax on/wax off ritual every 6 months or so when I was a kid and I'm happy to skip it. I do some autocross racing and this entails more than enough washing and maintenance for me, but if you enjoy detailing and car shows wax is probably still best.
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Old 07-05-2022, 08:07 PM   #22
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Do a baggie test.. if the paint feels rough use a clay bar.
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Old 07-05-2022, 09:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkH View Post
Most professionally applied ceramic coatings require maintenance in order for the warranty to be valid.


For example, this place:
https://ceramicpro.com/aftercare/
Don’t pay a pro. Installing a coating is easy and maintenance is easy. Only cost about $75 for a bottle to do a car
Gyeon (MOHS, Pure), Gtechniq(CSL, Exo v4), optimum gloss coat, carpro c quartz 3.0

Most of these shops make it seem like only they can install coatings so they can charge stupid amounts.

https://www.autoality.com/store/pc/P...tings-c407.htm
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Found exact build local- ETA 7/31/22
New ETA - 7/26, 7/30, 7/31, 8/1, 8/8, 8/15, 8/21, 8/28, 9/17
8/24. IT HAS ARRIVED at the dealer
8/25- It is in the Garage
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:08 AM   #24
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Don't forget iron decon...something like Iron-X. Don't clay it with that rail dust crap on there.
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:19 AM   #25
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I recently got a gallon of Adam's Graphene shampoo and QD. Awesome, just use it like normal car wash soap and QD, the results are great. Better than other similar SiO2 products I've used.
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