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Old 06-24-2022, 02:26 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCracka View Post
I have one on the downpipe of the turbo car and bought a used set cheap for the vert. I'm not fan of their plugs. They were melted on the kit I bought and I melted the one on the DP. The good news it's an easy fix, but if you route well you can avoid the problem.
Yea, I had a problem with one of my plugs, seems as one of the pins got misaligned and the vibrations would allow it to lose contact with the female recepticle it went into, and would stop working, only on one side though. Once we figured out what was happening and aligned them properly, no more issue. We routed mine up the side rail under the car and up through the floor under the seats. Never had a melting issue, but you have the heat from the turbo to deal with.
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Last edited by 1JEWLDSSRS; 06-25-2022 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 06-24-2022, 02:31 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
And how much has the profile under the car decreased ..?
Theoretically, I shouldn't mind so much. Camaro does not have lowered suspension.
If you are still stock height, you won't have any issues. I'm lowered 1.25-1.45 more like after all the time the springs have been in the car, 10 years. Like I said, the ONLY thing that hits sometimes is the large billet flange the motors are attached to. Oh, and the angle I cut my tubes at is probably about 30 degrees, or so. You can decide how far towards the back, or side of the car you want them to face. Have fun with them.
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Old 06-24-2022, 02:33 PM   #45
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Oh and I forgot to mention, we installed heat shrink wrap on the plug in connectors so they wouldn't vibrate lose.
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Old 06-25-2022, 04:40 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
If you are still stock height, you won't have any issues. I'm lowered 1.25-1.45 more like after all the time the springs have been in the car, 10 years. Like I said, the ONLY thing that hits sometimes is the large billet flange the motors are attached to. Oh, and the angle I cut my tubes at is probably about 30 degrees, or so. You can decide how far towards the back, or side of the car you want them to face. Have fun with them.
You can't have a sports chassis here in my country.
The highways are fine. But county and country roads ... there's worse and it's really how many times about car health.

Yes ... the heat shrink wrap on the plug in connectors sounds very reasonable. I will do the same
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Old 06-25-2022, 04:51 AM   #47
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And next questions...
I have a remote control that I want to connect to the garage door control on the interior rearview mirror.

Where is your transmitter located to make it work well?
Where is the best place to connect the transmitter power supply ..?
And where is the ideal place for cables to enter the cabin?
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K&N CAI, Stainless Power longtubes, high flow cats, modified Ragazzon High Performance axle back, Soler Performance ported throttle body, Soler Performance throttle controller, RAM clutch adjuster, modified LS7 clutch kit, Tick Performance billet bearing support, Tick Performance remote bleeder, separate clutch reservoir, BMR trailing arms, BMR toe rods, Pedders Suspension cradle bushing inserts, Control Arm Bushings, Strut tower brace, oil catch can, Hurst T-handle shifter, 20mm wheel spacers, DBA brakes, QTP Cutouts, Dynosteve tune.

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Old 06-25-2022, 08:56 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
And next questions...
I have a remote control that I want to connect to the garage door control on the interior rearview mirror.

Where is your transmitter located to make it work well?
Where is the best place to connect the transmitter power supply ..?
And where is the ideal place for cables to enter the cabin?
Well George, my setup does NOT have the remote fob for them, I just opted for the toggle switch setup with mine, so I can't answer that question, someone else on here might be able to tell you. As for the actuator motor cables, I ran mine over to the rail on the side of the car and up through them and over to the rubber plug under each seat and up through there, then under the carpet into the console, mounted the switch inside the armrest compartment and pulled power from the 12 volt accessory port inside, is switched power, only on when key is on.
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Old 06-25-2022, 11:38 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Well George, my setup does NOT have the remote fob for them, I just opted for the toggle switch setup with mine, so I can't answer that question, someone else on here might be able to tell you. As for the actuator motor cables, I ran mine over to the rail on the side of the car and up through them and over to the rubber plug under each seat and up through there, then under the carpet into the console, mounted the switch inside the armrest compartment and pulled power from the 12 volt accessory port inside, is switched power, only on when key is on.
So let me tell you something now ...
But don't tell anyone, because I'd be the biggest idiot in the world.

Until now, I had no idea that there was a 12V socket inside the armrest
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Old 06-25-2022, 12:41 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Well George, my setup does NOT have the remote fob for them, I just opted for the toggle switch setup with mine, so I can't answer that question, someone else on here might be able to tell you. As for the actuator motor cables, I ran mine over to the rail on the side of the car and up through them and over to the rubber plug under each seat and up through there, then under the carpet into the console, mounted the switch inside the armrest compartment and pulled power from the 12 volt accessory port inside, is switched power, only on when key is on.
I did pretty much the same thing except I ran both of them in on the drivers side. As for the cable I put them under the heat shields above the tunnel to get from one side to the other. Toggle switch setup is the same.
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:04 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
So let me tell you something now ...
But don't tell anyone, because I'd be the biggest idiot in the world.

Until now, I had no idea that there was a 12V socket inside the armrest
lol. Yep there is!! And I won't tell anyone!! Your secret is safe.
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:06 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Camaro2ss2010 View Post
I did pretty much the same thing except I ran both of them in on the drivers side. As for the cable I put them under the heat shields above the tunnel to get from one side to the other. Toggle switch setup is the same.
Very cool!! Great minds think alike...
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:15 PM   #53
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Oh and George, when you have the car up on the lift and you are mocking/marking everything up, I took the actuators off of the mounting flange AFTER marking where they would be welded, so that all you had was the tubing after you made sure of the clearance where you wanted to weld the tubing to, then we angle cut the tubing, cut the holes in the pipes, then tacked them in place. Put the actuators and billet flanges back on to double make sure you have the proper clearance from the floor. Then take them back off and if you can, do like we did and REMOVE the center section of your exhaust and lay it on the floor so you can weld all around the tube where it attaches to the exhaust pipe, then reinstall it, and the actuators and run your cables and hook them up.. Wheeewwww that was a job.. lol. Good luck my friend!!
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:16 PM   #54
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The usb plug is really gonna blow his mind.
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:17 PM   #55
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The usb plug is really gonna blow his mind.
Shhhhhhh... Don't tell him..
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:19 PM   #56
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Not sure if it makes much of a difference but on the header side of the flange that goes in the exhaust itself I cut a v notch before welding in so there would be less resistance per say and less flange inside the exhaust blocking it.
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