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Old 07-15-2022, 11:12 AM   #15
ctrlz


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gblaue View Post
It looks like you wiped off the heatsink grease on the right power amp. Make sure to put some back on. That would cause that power amp to thermally limit, or shut down. Take a look inside the connector pin on both the amp side, and harness side for any kind of "growths".
I see what he's saying. I guess the amp cover contacts those IC's when the thing is sandwiched back together.
In case you can't find heatsink compound locally (RadioShack used to have it, but try to find a RadioShack anymore!):
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-...ps%2C62&sr=8-1
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Old 09-30-2022, 09:48 AM   #16
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I haven't posted on this in a while. I opened the amp up and took some pictures. It definitely looks like its been under water, but nothing stood out to me as an obvious short. I cleaned it up with alcohol and re-installed it, but still no sound. Does anyone know how I could go about troubleshooting if the amplifier is actually toast?

I have some aftermarket amps that i would rather install over replacing this thing, but someone told me most of the aftermarket digital converters require the factory amp to still work. not sure if that is true.



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Old 09-30-2022, 10:09 AM   #17
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What does the backside look like?

-Geoff
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Old 09-30-2022, 11:43 AM   #18
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What does the backside look like?
I didn't take a picture, i'll have to pull it apart again.
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Old 09-30-2022, 12:13 PM   #19
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No biggie. It looks like some corrosion on the right side and near the top in the first pic.

-Geoff
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Old 09-30-2022, 02:44 PM   #20
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The IC601 is the STK amplifier chip and it has a lot of corrosion at the pins. There are a lot of reasons why this would not produce sound, and testing is required to determine why. Always start with the basics, does the amp chip have power? To test this is difficult as it requires you basically have it plugged in then you meter the pins.
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Old 10-02-2022, 01:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
The IC601 is the STK amplifier chip and it has a lot of corrosion at the pins.
Agree that looks bad. Unfortunately that's not the only place.
If you were confident the conformal coating protected the rest of the board, you could try removing and replacing that amp chip. It might even work with just some resoldering.
These chips are only like $15-20, and this one is probably still in production. Be nice to know the part #.
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Old 10-03-2022, 08:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrlz View Post
Agree that looks bad. Unfortunately that's not the only place.
If you were confident the conformal coating protected the rest of the board, you could try removing and replacing that amp chip. It might even work with just some resoldering.
These chips are only like $15-20, and this one is probably still in production. Be nice to know the part #.
The bummer is you have to remove the heat sink to see the part number. They are difficult to un-solder since they are so large and act like a heat sink!
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3000: 6/29/22 . . . . . .TPW : 8/15/22
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Old 10-03-2022, 11:57 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
The bummer is you have to remove the heat sink to see the part number. They are difficult to un-solder since they are so large and act like a heat sink!
Looks like it contacts the case for heatsink where the grease is visible. That cage that wraps around it is either physical protection or additional heatsink. Pain to desolder and there are probably tabs that were bent before it was soldered. Harbor Freight sells a 40W iron for like $3.99 which gets too hot for a lot of things. But get some braid and that iron and I think it is doable. I always keep one of those HF cheapies around for "special occasions."
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Old 10-03-2022, 02:05 PM   #24
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My honest opinion is to not waste your time trying to fix this - it's toast. Just move on and get a new one. There is no guarantee that replacing that one chip is going to make it work again - even if you can identify and get the chip you need. It's nearly impossible without a schematic, and as far as I know GM doesn't release one.

You can get the amp new, but I wouldn't hesitate to get a replacement from a junkyard - just make sure the donor car has the same options as yours so it is compatible. You might still have to get it flashed, though. Maybe someone on the tech side can answer that question.

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Old 10-04-2022, 09:39 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy View Post
You can get the amp new, but I wouldn't hesitate to get a replacement from a junkyard - just make sure the donor car has the same options as yours so it is compatible. You might still have to get it flashed, though. Maybe someone on the tech side can answer that question.

-Geoff
This sounds like a good strategy. Finding a junkyard amp, probably not so hard. If the old one needs to be removed from the system architecture and the new one added, that is something where you need the right dealer experience. Would love to know if these are plug-and-play, but doubt it is the case.
The other thing is you need to find a dealer willing to add your "junkyard" amp. They may not be so willing to do this since it is not a new part. I don't doubt a new amp with dealer install is in the $1000 range.

Just looking around ebay, there are a few listed. You will need your exact part number to make sure you buy the right one. Then you might need the donor VIN so it can be unlocked by a dealer:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16558586100...Bk9SR8qnpcD0YA

Last edited by ctrlz; 10-04-2022 at 01:26 PM.
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