Need new-engine + forced induction build advice - 2010 SS M6

[Standard]

Long story. My car is on its second LS3, that now either needs 'light rebuild' or engine replacement which costs about the same. Blah blah bearing. Bad luck? Whatever, it's toast.

Decades ago I promised myself a supercharged V8, which never came about. Maybe now is the time.

My idea - instead of spending 8-9K on what's there, to get the car dragged elsewhere and instead order some sort of performance engine. Something lower compression or higher performance or whatever is good right now.

My general ideas:
1. Stay M6 and preserve the joy of a very *streetable*/daily driver grade M6, with comparable mileage.
2. I won't ever be racing anyone.
3. Want either turbo, twin-turbo, or supercharger. I don't know, that's why I'm asking.
4. Would go so far as to replace the clutch assembly and axles (if that's a thing) to make the car able to handle the engine, less inclined to go more radical than that.
5. But I want to be terrified when I hit the gas.

Presume there's a well recommended-guy around me to do the work. I'd like to be brought up to speed on some good ballpark ideas.

Which Engine? Which forced induction choice and kit? Which drivetrain upgrades? Is there anything with the computer that is hard to work around? (This is a 2010).


Thanks,
Matt

[The SS Godfather]

The dream would be LSX with procharger !!!

[cc-rider]

You should just do some searches here and read. We are blessed with so many forced induction set ups for our cars. There are so many to chose from. Rebuild and have them put forged rotating assembly in. Then pick your boost. Superchargers will give you that instant hit and make your car feel like it’s got 750 cubic inch motor. Turbos will give you an insane mid and top end and will make more overall power on a dyno.

The good news is…it’s all been done here. You can search and read for days. And you’ll find every combo you can imagine. Good luck!

[joshnmn]

You're in Austin- get on I35 north and head to Texas Speed. Plenty of ways to spend money there. If you want streetable and manual I would lean to a blower. Either route will need fuel system upgrades as well. Like said above, read around, lots of builds around. User elesthree just sold his centri blower manual car that made big numbers. He would be a great resource for your questions.

[sscamaro]

I have a 2010 SS/RS. I ordered and got mine in September of 2009. In 2010 I installed an Edelbrock supercharger, engine had 15K miles on it. It now has 71K miles on it. I have never had any problems with the engine or anything else. I didn't need another cam for what I use it for. It runs great and drives like a daily driver.

See mods below:

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by Standard

My general ideas:
1. Stay M6 and preserve the joy of a very *streetable*/daily driver grade M6, with comparable mileage.
2. I won't ever be racing anyone.
3. Want either turbo, twin-turbo, or supercharger. I don't know, that's why I'm asking.
4. Would go so far as to replace the clutch assembly and axles (if that's a thing) to make the car able to handle the engine, less inclined to go more radical than that.
5. But I want to be terrified when I hit the gas.

1. Yes, to minimized changes and still enjoy. My stock TR6060 lasted 7 years of mid level boost.
2. For fun and not having to prove anything
3. If leaning toward a SC, plan ahead with cam, headers, intake to optimize power. Turbos are more forgiving with not needing those things and just upping boost for power. Both power adders will make you smile.
4. Yes, you'll have to beef up your drivetrain and suspension to handle the power. Twin-disc clutch (there are brands to prefer), 1pc driveshaft (haven't heard of a stock one failing but not sure if some try to use it with those power adders). I'd highly recommend a 3.73 ZL1 differential and OEM axles (best bang for the buck in my books). Make sure you up your rear suspension (trailing arms, toe rods at minimum, then solid cradle mounts, poly differential mounts (pain in the ass to add later, do it with the ZL1 diff add). Also, plan if not already (should be a given) to upgrade heads with springs and kit for higher reving. Stock heads flow awesome.
5. Spend more money for more power. Sounds great but with more power comes more problems. I'm breaking shit that not meant to break. If you keep 'er tame (less than 800whp) then life is better than >1,000whp. Just my story/opinion of having "in excess of..." compared to when I had 745whp on the LS3 and a happy camper (note my answer to #1 and 7 years). Mine is still a daily driver.

[racesloth]

Simple recipe.

ESS tuning G3 kit pullied for 11-12 lbs (ID 850 or 1050 injectors)
DSX aux pump and DSX E85 conversion
224/6 - 240/2 .615/.615 lift cam for centri (retains LS3 torque down low and lets the supercharger sing)
LQ9 short block for boost (CNC motorsports has many)
Stock heads with LS9 gaskets. .660 springs and CHE bushed trunions, ARP head bolts (let the supercharger push the air through)
Twin disk clutch - Monster is nice
ZL1 driveline 3.73 with solid alum chassis bushings
Run on E85

Will make for good manners/reliability
Stand by when the boost comes on

Don't get overly stuck on the cam 224-228 on the intake is plenty.

I did a bit more than this. But if doing it all over, this is exactly what I would do. Did all the work myself and I am low-middling on the mechanic spectrum.

[racesloth]

5. Spend more money for more power. Sounds great but with more power comes more problems. I'm breaking shit that not meant to break. If you keep 'er tame (less than 800whp) then life is better than >1,000whp. Just my story/opinion of having "in excess of..." compared to when I had 745whp on the LS3 and a happy camper (note my answer to #1 and 7 years). Mine is still a daily driver.

This exactly. People like the 1K number but an 800hp street car is no joke and no traction...

[Risingson05]

Originally Posted by The SS Godfather

The dream would be LSX with twin turbskis !!!

Fixed

[ZL1C7]

I think it would be helpful to have a horsepower number and budget in mind. I have built every combination imaginable but a few of them stick out as the most fun. (For me) A few of them stand out as can't/won't do again.
In my old age there a couple things I cannot tolerate anymore.
1) Exhaust and gas fumes from catless/long tubes. Clothes smelling like fuel from the exhaust. I can go to the racetrack and do it all weekend but don't like it for my daily driver.
2) The noise from the exhaust from the above^. Depending on where you live, local police, your neighbors can all be a factor.

Top 2 Pics for most fun/power. LS3 with a LS9 cam, LSA supercharger on E85 thru cats. 650+Hp to the wheel, DSX Aux and Flex fuel. Fun as hell, quiet, smells good, drives like stock until you get into boost. As long as you don't put a sticky tire on it, the rear end and axles will live. Cradle bushings are a must tho to get rid of wheel hop. If you want a sticky tire, ZL1 driveshaft diff and axles are the ticket

Next pick if you want more power than the above would be the AGP twin turbo kit. Count on upgrading clutch, rear end, fuel system. The turbo's act like a muffler and burn off gas fumes. Best of all worlds. Make stupid power on demand. AGP has been doing this for years and has all the bugs worked out.

[CamaroCracka]

I like Racesloths thinking, but I might opt for the PD blower. Hard to beat those on the street.

If you just want to scare the shit out yourself, put skinny tires on it and nail it going around a corner.

No matter what you build, you will get used to the power level.

[BiggFoot]

A PD blower is instant hit but it maintains full pressure on your block after 2000-2500 RPM. To me a centrifugal blower is easier on your engine because under normal circumstances there is no pressure on your block until you hit it. I have been pushing the boundaries of SBE hp for about 4 years now. The big Procharger coupled with E-85 for fuel, in my opinion has preserved my engine because I dont hit it every day. You asked the question about what is better and all I can say is, "there is no better." In the end you have to decide which way to go. The F-1X with cog drive is not without issues, but since I changed to a deep groove idler pulley on the blower I have had no more belt pop and take something out issues. Where is some wood I can knock on, lol.

[RupertPupkin]

Originally Posted by Standard

Long story. My car is on its second LS3, that now either needs 'light rebuild' or engine replacement which costs about the same. Blah blah bearing. Bad luck? Whatever, it's toast.

Decades ago I promised myself a supercharged V8, which never came about. Maybe now is the time.

My idea - instead of spending 8-9K on what's there, to get the car dragged elsewhere and instead order some sort of performance engine. Something lower compression or higher performance or whatever is good right now.

My general ideas:
1. Stay M6 and preserve the joy of a very *streetable*/daily driver grade M6, with comparable mileage.
2. I won't ever be racing anyone.
3. Want either turbo, twin-turbo, or supercharger. I don't know, that's why I'm asking.
4. Would go so far as to replace the clutch assembly and axles (if that's a thing) to make the car able to handle the engine, less inclined to go more radical than that.
5. But I want to be terrified when I hit the gas.

Presume there's a well recommended-guy around me to do the work. I'd like to be brought up to speed on some good ballpark ideas.

Which Engine? Which forced induction choice and kit? Which drivetrain upgrades? Is there anything with the computer that is hard to work around? (This is a 2010).


Thanks,
Matt

Then why build something thats high hp?


Go iron with twins. I'm a little biased to my centri. If I was going to build again and go over 1000whp, then I would've started with twins.

Are you planning on doing highway pulls, or just putt around town?

[CamaroCracka]