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Old 02-18-2022, 09:47 PM   #1
RupertPupkin

 
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Thoughts on setup

Decided to stick with the ECS kit, but just upgrade the blower. Too many parts to swap around with going TT. When it’s all said and done it’s 5k more for the TT. From the looks of it, easy 1000whp with the 2200r.

TMS 408
ECS 2200R

Should I just do the 2200X? Does the billet impeller really make a difference? With the X, I would have to upgrade to the 10rib setup, and that would be and extra 1k$
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Old 02-22-2022, 05:09 AM   #2
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I absolutely would do the x and 10 rib. surface area on the belt will only help a belt live and not slip at that power level.

Billet wheels make a big difference for us turbo folks. I'd imagine it would be the same for the blower guys.
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Old 02-22-2022, 09:19 PM   #3
RupertPupkin

 
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At that point I might as well do the TT setup if going with the X. Going to the R doesn’t require the 10 rib conversion. Cost difference wouldn’t be as substantial
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Old 02-28-2022, 03:52 PM   #4
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It's your budget man, dont ask anyone else. 1000whp is a lot to handle in a stick car. Hopefully your clutch and fuel system is up for that.
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Old 03-01-2022, 02:16 PM   #5
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What are the goals performance wise?
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Old 03-02-2022, 02:54 PM   #6
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Stick with the R....if you're not happy with it later, then re-consider
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Old 03-02-2022, 02:55 PM   #7
RupertPupkin

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eLeSthree View Post
It's your budget man, dont ask anyone else. 1000whp is a lot to handle in a stick car. Hopefully your clutch and fuel system is up for that.

I’ve accounted for the long block, fuel pump, and injectors. I’m just trying to swap out as minimal parts as possible when it comes to the FI part.

I know I have to swap my fuel pump and injectors out, and the clutch should be fine. Not doing any dig races, so my McLeod should hold up nicely.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RealQuick View Post
What are the goals performance wise?
1000 to the wheel, and a highway baby hauler. Lol
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Old 03-02-2022, 08:55 PM   #8
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Can you elaborate more on what other mods you have already done? When you get to the 800+ range…heads, throttle bodies, and other things that are considered “little” gains at stock through 600hp range really start to deliver. Perhaps you already have those things done.

It’s all about displacement, airflow, and octane/timing in the end. Anything that affects that needs to be addressed to hit the 1k.

Sounds like a good build. I’m working on my blown engine now myself. But I’m shooting for the 800 hp level. Which you’ve already achieved. Good luck!
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Old 03-03-2022, 07:37 AM   #9
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If its just a peak number you are looking for, then go with the blower... it should get you there.
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Old 03-03-2022, 12:51 PM   #10
RupertPupkin

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cc-rider View Post
Can you elaborate more on what other mods you have already done? When you get to the 800+ range…heads, throttle bodies, and other things that are considered “little” gains at stock through 600hp range really start to deliver. Perhaps you already have those things done.

It’s all about displacement, airflow, and octane/timing in the end. Anything that affects that needs to be addressed to hit the 1k.

Sounds like a good build. I’m working on my blown engine now myself. But I’m shooting for the 800 hp level. Which you’ve already achieved. Good luck!

McLeod RXT
DSX Aux pump- swapping to fore triples or AGP triples
FIC 127lbs- swapping to ID1300/1700 or FIC 1650 (depends on shop)
ECS 1500- Going 2200r/x
Cam only LS3 (Blew up)- swapping to TMS 408
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Old 03-03-2022, 04:56 PM   #11
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Nice, your torque will suck a hernia back in place when you are done. You're definitely going to need more blower to fill those additional cubes. Always better to go big from the beginning. Just like now you want to make the jump from 800 to 1000 hp then two years from now you will want 1200-1300. If you can afford it, put a big azz TT in so you have enough air no matter what you want down the line and call it good. One and done!
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Old 03-05-2022, 02:16 AM   #12
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Some thoughts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
McLeod RXT
DSX Aux pump- swapping to fore triples or AGP triples
FIC 127lbs- swapping to ID1300/1700 or FIC 1650 (depends on shop)
ECS 1500- Going 2200r/x
Cam only LS3 (Blew up)- swapping to TMS 408
This is just general feed back. In the end you decide.
Not trying to threadjack. Just letting you know what works for me.
I went with a short-block with a 4.125 bore x 3.750 stroke = ~401 CID with performance heads and 10.8:1 flat tops and a Kong 2650. The bigger blower compared to the LSA is just a comparison to represent the increase in air input. Not meant to be a PD vs Centri vs turbo conversation. The greater airflow is all relative.
The shorter stroke has slower piston velocity than longer strokes combinations and allows for greater push by the boost. The longer strokes have faster piston velocity and require added boost to "chase" the piston that moves faster than the shorter stroke combination.
A6L90 transmission
Fore triple with return.
Cam is comparable to a BTR stage 4 (it has a lot of chop)
Using IDA 1300s to be able to use E85 and the 1300s tend to be more stable for drivability. If the engine ever needs more fuel I can always crank up the pressure at the regulator. Fuel trims on the tune are good and the Lambda averages .987 to 1.03.
The engine combo with the LSA blower made 810 rwhp. It was a handful then and even more now with the bigger Kong. The bigger blower makes an additional 140 and demands a bigger air intake and a NW103 throttle body. Still has great street manners.

Be sure to break in the new mill with a good zinc mixed oil.

Hope it helps. Good luck with your build.
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Old 03-05-2022, 10:28 AM   #13
hillshooter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoleCat2SSRS2010 View Post
This is just general feed back. In the end you decide.
Not trying to threadjack. Just letting you know what works for me.
I went with a short-block with a 4.125 bore x 3.750 stroke = ~401 CID with performance heads and 10.8:1 flat tops and a Kong 2650. The bigger blower compared to the LSA is just a comparison to represent the increase in air input. Not meant to be a PD vs Centri vs turbo conversation. The greater airflow is all relative.
The shorter stroke has slower piston velocity than longer strokes combinations and allows for greater push by the boost. The longer strokes have faster piston velocity and require added boost to "chase" the piston that moves faster than the shorter stroke combination.
A6L90 transmission
Fore triple with return.
Cam is comparable to a BTR stage 4 (it has a lot of chop)
Using IDA 1300s to be able to use E85 and the 1300s tend to be more stable for drivability. If the engine ever needs more fuel I can always crank up the pressure at the regulator. Fuel trims on the tune are good and the Lambda averages .987 to 1.03.
The engine combo with the LSA blower made 810 rwhp. It was a handful then and even more now with the bigger Kong. The bigger blower makes an additional 140 and demands a bigger air intake and a NW103 throttle body. Still has great street manners.

Be sure to break in the new mill with a good zinc mixed oil.

Hope it helps. Good luck with your build.

One day they may even be able to prove old internet myths about short stroke on the dyno.
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Old 03-08-2022, 12:55 PM   #14
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You've got to overcome worrying about +- a couple thousand dollars. Keep in mind the cost of boost control that will become super important to you once you have 1000+ whp. And keep in mind the going TT will need 15% less fuel delivery since you aren't loosing 15% to spin the blower up.
And lastly, if a couple thousand bucks is going to break the bank for you, then for sure don't pursue building 1000+whp car.
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