Did a coolant flush, added "green stuff", forgot to top off reservoir

[Teeth]

Should I just dump more "green stuff" in there too?

[Black_SS10]

As long as you flushed out all of the Dexcool, you can use the green stuff. The two shouldn't be mixed.

[Teeth]

I'll probably do another flush tomorrow just to make sure, don't know if I can attribute the heat to insufficient coolant or some other thing.

[Black_SS10]

Heat? What's the problem?

[Teeth]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

Heat? What's the problem?

Just some excessive heat. I did put in my Nightfury not too long ago, slapped on a B&M for the trans, then noticed oil was going up so I put on a Mishimoto. Still had heat problems...might be because of air flow to radiator with those both in the front now...but when I added the coolant to the reservoir, it began to regulate itself much better.

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by Teeth

Just some excessive heat. I did put in my Nightfury not too long ago, slapped on a B&M for the trans, then noticed oil was going up so I put on a Mishimoto. Still had heat problems...might be because of air flow to radiator with those both in the front now...but when I added the coolant to the reservoir, it began to regulate itself much better.

May have just been low, maybe even an air pocket. What kind of temps were you seeing? What temp are your fans set to come on? Are you running the stock temp Tstat? I hardly see over 200, and that is on hot days sitting in traffic. Otherwise I usually see 190 ish. I'm using a 160 Tstat.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

May have just been low, maybe even an air pocket. What kind of temps were you seeing? What temp are your fans set to come on? Are you running the stock temp Tstat? I hardly see over 200, and that is on hot days sitting in traffic. Otherwise I usually see 190 ish. I'm using a 160 Tstat.

Yeah, same for me. The 160º stat and having my tuner lower my fan activation temps was exactly what I needed to stay away from 220ºF. I never hit 200 now. Always between 172-196º.

This car can be a PITA sometimes to get all the trapped air of the system. It will act fine like you got it all, then you take a ride and hit 230º. You really need to let it sit idle for a while with the cap off and keep topping off when it drops a bit.

As you can see, I just learned how to make a degree symbol in Windows lol (ALT+167). So I am going to be dropping ºººººººººººººººº's all over the place! Yes, I its obnoxious as hell, but I will get over it soon.

[byrds8]

When changing the coolant is it better to go green?

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by byrds8

When changing the coolant is it better to go green?

The basic reasoning behind Dex-Cool is that it is a phosphate and silica based chemical, rather than ethelyne glycol, like the green stuff.

Dex-cool is used because it inhibits corrosion in aluminum engines and engines with aluminum parts. The green stuff will change color in an iron block but will not change color in an aluminum engine, when it starts to corrode.

The downside to Dex-Cool is that it will sludge when exposed to air, and of course, if combined with the green stuff.

Dex-Cool got a bad rap in the late 1990's and early 2000's when it was discovered, or blamed for intake gasket failures on certain V6 engines that had coolant flowing through the intake.

Is better to go green? I would say no, not really. The Dex-Cool is purposed for aluminum engines, engines that are designed to run hotter than the old school iron blocks. The system in the aluminum engine is a high pressure system, which also inhibits the coolant from reaching the boiling point.

Also, given what can happen if you switch to the ethylene Glycol coolant with out completely, totally, and absolutely flushing the engine of the Dex-Cool and any residual silicates, I would say staying cool with Dex is the way to go.

If temps in the engine are hotter than normal, it's because there is an issue in the system. Changing the coolant is not going to fix that.

But that's just how I look at it.

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by byrds8

When changing the coolant is it better to go green?

Not necessarily. Dexcool is just fine.

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by MrChrisLS3

The basic reasoning behind Dex-Cool is that it is a phosphate and silica based chemical, rather than ethelyne glycol, like the green stuff.

Dex-cool is used because it inhibits corrosion in aluminum engines and engines with aluminum parts. The green stuff will change color in an iron block but will not change color in an aluminum engine, when it starts to corrode.

The downside to Dex-Cool is that it will sludge when exposed to air, and of course, if combined with the green stuff.

Dex-Cool got a bad rap in the late 1990's and early 2000's when it was discovered, or blamed for intake gasket failures on certain V6 engines that had coolant flowing through the intake.

Is better to go green? I would say no, not really. The Dex-Cool is purposed for aluminum engines, engines that are designed to run hotter than the old school iron blocks. The system in the aluminum engine is a high pressure system, which also inhibits the coolant from reaching the boiling point.

Also, given what can happen if you switch to the ethylene Glycol coolant with out completely, totally, and absolutely flushing the engine of the Dex-Cool and any residual silicates, I would say staying cool with Dex is the way to go.

If temps in the engine are hotter than normal, it's because there is an issue in the system. Changing the coolant is not going to fix that.

But that's just how I look at it.

That's funny. I was gonna type something similar out and decided not too. I agree with everything you said. Except the part about sludging when exposed to air. There is always air in the cooling system. It does not sludge when exposed to air.

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

That's funny. I was gonna type something similar out and decided not too. I agree with everything you said. Except the part about sludging when exposed to air. There is always air in the cooling system. It does not sludge when exposed to air.

Dex-Cool sludge is caused by oxidation

A faulty radiator cap, coolant additives and stop leak products, mixing a different coolant into Dex-Cool, running low on coolant or using Dex-Cool in an engine not approved for its use can all cause oxidation and corrosion that forms as a sludge. To avoid sludge, you must keep the system full so air doesn’t enter. The radiator cap must work properly.

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...x-cool-sludge/

[Black_SS10]

Oxidation and corrosion can happen to any system using any coolant...not just dexcool. It isn't dexcools fault if someone doesn't maintian their cooling system or fix problems. I've seen sludge in all types of sytems due to lack of maintenance. A cooling system is always exposed to air via the overflow tank. Dexcool is exposed to air in shipping containers and it doesn't sludge.

[Teeth]

To answer, since I got distracted last night.

It is running on the stock thermostat, and it was suggested that I do get the 160 degreethat, which I'll probably get here soon enough.

The car can barely stay in idle traffic for a minute or two without sending my coolant, oil and trans gauges up in temp, which is really bothering me since I do have auxiliary coolers just for the oil and trans. I'll do some more looking into it, I'm just really worried about the car.

It gets really bad when I come off of highway speeds and into any normal street...