[danhr]

Originally Posted by Black Hole

The tuner was very adamant regarding the e85 - indicating his problem with it was that the flex fuel sensor would not adjust timing, only the fueling, so detonation (and subsequent "blown" motor) was not only possible - he had seen it happen many times. Perhaps those folks are the remaining 10% @danhr alluded to.

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I would go to a new tuner. As adjusting the timing is the whole point of the flex fuel sensors. Lol.

When done properly, it not only adjusts your timing, but it adjust ls your timing based on how much ethanol is going through your fuel line, at that exact moment (that's literally the purpose of the flex fuel sensor). After it reads how much ethanol you are running, it adds timing accordingly. So if it reads 40%, it adds X amount of timing. If it reads 60%, it adds Y amount of timing, etc.

[Black Hole]

@danhr - thanks for your feedback. I noticed in your sig that you have the 15" conversion...is this the Weld wheel conversion with the small brake kit? If so, I was hoping you could give me some details on that.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by Black Hole

@danhr - thanks for your feedback. I noticed in your sig that you have the 15" conversion...is this the Weld wheel conversion with the small brake kit? If so, I was hoping you could give me some details on that.

There is only one company that sells a 15" wheel conversion for our cars, and that's carlyle racing. They are a dealer/distributor for Weld wheels though, but you aren't limited to just welds. For instance, I am getting bogarts for my wheels.

But what else would you like to know? It replaces all the trailing and tow arms in the rear suspension. In fact, the only arm it does not replace is the lower control arm. And they send you a set of willwood calipers/pads/rotors. Pretty straight forward installation, and then just get it properly aligned and you are good to go. I even went as far as getting a more drag strip oriented alignment in the rear, to help aid in traction.

[PRAY]

Your tuner must adjust the timing tables that the FF sensor uses. If that is not done properly then yes, you will have problems. But anyone that does not realize the benefits of E85 and a FF sensor in these cars does not need to be messing with them.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by danhr

There is only one company that sells a 15" wheel conversion for our cars, and that's carlyle racing. They are a dealer/distributor for Weld wheels though, but you aren't limited to just welds. For instance, I am getting bogarts for my wheels.

But what else would you like to know? It replaces all the trailing and tow arms in the rear suspension. In fact, the only arm it does not replace is the lower control arm. And they send you a set of willwood calipers/pads/rotors. Pretty straight forward installation, and then just get it properly aligned and you are good to go. I even went as far as getting a more drag strip oriented alignment in the rear, to help aid in traction.

You can buy front brakes from aerospace to fit 15s in front. GPI sells a kit too. Carlyle is the only rear kit

Do you think you lost much weight in the rear? The gpi front kit shaves like 38 lbs

I though I read the Carlyle kit was only like 7 lbs which is kinda lame. It’s nice to be able to run 15s but still

[danhr]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

You can buy front brakes from aerospace to fit 15s in front. GPI sells a kit too. Carlyle is the only rear kit

Do you think you lost much weight in the rear? The gpi front kit shaves like 38 lbs

I though I read the Carlyle kit was only like 7 lbs which is kinda lame. It’s nice to be able to run 15s but still

I left a message at GPI about that kit and they never returned a phone call to me. I was curious if it still remained safe to drive on the street (like actual street driving, not the occasional cruise). I still take my kids for rides in my car, and as much as I would like to shave weight.... their safety is first

I can get measured weights for you. I gotta get them suckers off for powdercoat anyways. but off the bat, I can tell you that you save ~20 lbs just going from a 17" racestar wheel to a good 15" wheel. and that's unsprung rotational weight at that.

[Black Hole]

These are the wheels I am looking at; sorry for the typo - meant 16": https://www.weldwheels.com/product/c...ar-drag-wheel/

Yes, was looking to see what the conversion entailed as far as all parts required to make it work - thanks.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by Black Hole

These are the wheels I am looking at; sorry for the typo - meant 16": https://www.weldwheels.com/product/c...ar-drag-wheel/

Yes, was looking to see what the conversion entailed as far as all parts required to make it work - thanks.

Jesus... $2260 just for a set of rear wheels?!

[Black Hole]

LOL - yeah, the price made me choke.
But I do LOVE those wheels.

[danhr]

Buy once, cry once..... well..... you might cry a few times at that price..... but they are pretty sick looking. Fronts are a grand a pop..... but those will be the most badass wheels in the time zone

[parish8]

I pulled a 1.60 60’ with 20” drag radials. Didn’t spin at all.

If your serious get the 15’s. If your sorta serious get the 17’s. If you want to drive around in stealth mode get the 20’s. My best et with a stock motor and 20’s was 6.48 @ 113

[Black Hole]

The 16" Welds are my top choice - stock and for the long haul - but I can't seem to find a decent drag radial for the rears that would fit well...I don;t want a taller setup than stock. I'd like a 305/45/16 but cannot find that size.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by Black Hole

The 16" Welds are my top choice - stock and for the long haul - but I can't seem to find a decent drag radial for the rears that would fit well...I don;t want a taller setup than stock. I'd like a 305/45/16 but cannot find that size.

They say not for street use. You will ruin them on the street. Just something to consider

The m and h 275/55/16 is 28 tall

The Hoosier 295/50/16 is 27.7 tall

[Black Hole]

I noticed that "not for street use" but figured it was the standard disclaimer that appears to accompany all non-stock parts. Curious now - how would they get ruined if used on the street? I certainly want a street-use wheel but it would suck to drop that kind of $ and them ruin them.

I believe the stock tires are literally 26.8" tall. I'd like to stay around 27 max. The 285/30/20s appealed to me due to their height.

Thanks to all who have chimed in, btw!

@parish8 - hope you mean 6.48 on stock wheels, not "motor."