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09-13-2020, 08:52 AM
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#1 |
 
Drives: ‘15 RH Z/28 #185, Hennessey #006 Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 42
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Oil Cooler Leak
My oil cooler sprung a leak after I changed the oil. I went with Mobil 1 5w30 and a M1-113A oil filter, so nothing exotic. It seems like it's only leaking from the back, it's pretty dry in the front.
Has anyone experienced this before? Did you have any luck fixing it with a gasket, or do I need to swap the entire unit? Thanks in advance. |
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09-13-2020, 03:30 PM
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#2 | |
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Build Date - Dec 08, 2014
Drives: 2015 Z/28, #1007, Black A/C Stereo Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 197
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Quote:
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09-13-2020, 03:46 PM
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#3 |
  Drives: 2014 SIM 2SS Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 925
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Mine leaked as well, there's a lot of threads on this forum about it leaking again after repairing. I decided to block mine off and haven't noticed any negative impacts.
https://www.google.com/search?source...4dUDCAg&uact=5 http://www.improvedracing.com/coolin...kit-p-776.html |
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09-18-2020, 12:16 PM
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#4 |
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Drives: ‘15 RH Z/28 #185, Hennessey #006 Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 42
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Thanks guys! I would like to keep it on if I could. Does anyone have the torque specs and sequence for when I go to replace it?
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09-18-2020, 12:30 PM
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#5 |
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Drives: 2014 SIM 2SS Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 925
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10-24-2020, 11:31 AM
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#6 |
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Drives: ‘15 RH Z/28 #185, Hennessey #006 Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 42
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Thanks for the help, gents!
I ended up purchasing the factory manuals. Here's the direction on the oil cooler brick installation. Apparently, the extra heat from longtubes can sometimes cause these o-rings to fail. I took off the "brick" that is the cooler itself, and left the plumbing attached. It has coolant running through one side, to bring the oil up to temp when it's cold, and keep it cooler when it's hot. You can tell which side the oil runs through by the discoloration on the ports. You'll need a torx bit on a 3/8's drive, a 4-6" extension, and a swivel for two of the bolts. It looks tight, but it's totally manageable. Drain your oil completely before you drop the brick; when you pull it off some oil and coolant comes with it. The part number for the o-rings is 12698626. You'll need four. I torqued my bolts to 216 in/lbs in the typical 4-bolt flange sequence (I couldn't find a recommended sequence anywhere.) It looks like a huge pain, but it's pretty manageable. Unfortunately, it looks like the o-rings weren't the problem, but the actual brick itself. I tucked the car in for winter yesterday, so I have a couple of months to track down an alternative cooler. I'd be happy to take suggestions! Last edited by Flannel-On-A-Camel; 10-25-2020 at 09:42 AM. |
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10-27-2020, 03:59 PM
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#7 |
 
Drives: 2015 Camaro Z/28 #968 Silver Ice M Join Date: May 2019
Location: Houston
Posts: 365
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Great post! We're all going to need this info later. Thanks for sharing my man.
__________________
Current Cars:
2008 Honda CRV 2.0L 2015 Chevy Z/28 7.0L 2016 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L Past Cars: 1976 Chevy Malibu Classic 5.7L 1985 Chevy 2DR 4x4 Blazer 5.7L 1989 Chevy IROC-Z 5.7L 1995 Chevy 2DR 4x4 Tahoe 5.7L 2005 Chevy 4DR Tahoe 5.3L |
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10-27-2020, 04:31 PM
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#8 | |
  
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10-24-2022, 08:30 AM
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#9 |
 
Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS 6.2 Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 2
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Hi, guys ! It's looks like I've got the same problem with leaking from somewhere behind the core of the oil cooler. I want to try replace double gasket at the top corner and o-rings for now. I want to do that at the next regular oil change. And I really curios - is this possible to do, not flushing coolant and not detaching coolant hoses ?
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