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Old 05-09-2019, 01:04 PM   #15
tecmec
 
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It's just the 1LE brakes.

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Old 05-16-2019, 02:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecmec View Post
I'm curious if this solves your issue. I had the same soft pedal issue after installing my GM big brake kit on my SS. I actually have the GM MDI interface, and so I have done a million ABS bleed cycles on the car. I was able to get a few small bubbles out, but have never been able to get the pedal feel to what I think it should be.

I didn't let the master run dry, so I'm not sure why it would have air in it. The brake line plumbing in these cars is funny though. The ABS module is above the passenger side wheel well, and we have lines running between there and the master, over the engine at the back of the firewall (if I'm remembering correctly). Those lines are a high point, and I imagine they would be a great place for air to collect, and would probably be almost impossible to evacuate. I was actually worried that if I disconnected the master, I'd just end up letting even more air into those lines, making things worse.

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there was some kinda small recall with FCA cars about air trapped in brake systems. I have a 2015 Jeep SRT and I never liked the brake feel of it.



The dealer said they had a special rig just for this and wanted to try it out on mine even since I didnt have the recall and I let them go ahead with it. I never saw what is was but I wonder if they were putting vacuum on the master cylinder cap somehow to help pull air out of the system.
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Old 03-13-2020, 12:36 PM   #17
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Sorry to bring up this old post. Has this been fixed? I am having a similar issue. I went to change out my brake fluid and negated to watch the level in the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes multiple times and multiple ways (motive, and pedal). The pedal seems to be inconsistent with a soft feel requiring different amounts of pedal travel to stop.
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Old 03-13-2020, 02:28 PM   #18
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As described in my older post, I got my pressure to be OK (not as bad as you describe) by using a pressure bleeder and using the ABS bleed procedure.

However, it's still not as good as I want it to be, so I am planning on doing a bench bleed soon. I have the parts, I'm just waiting for time to get around to it.
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Old 03-13-2020, 03:15 PM   #19
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Thanks. I've seen people doing a master cylinder bleed by running a line from the caliper back to the master cylinder. This may be my last effort before bringing it to the dealer, I have an inspection due anyway.
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Old 03-14-2020, 01:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by silkrckt View Post
Thanks. I've seen people doing a master cylinder bleed by running a line from the caliper back to the master cylinder. This may be my last effort before bringing it to the dealer, I have an inspection due anyway.
This method won't be any more effective than regularly bleeding the car. ABS module can still catch any air coming out of the master cylinder, and the fact that you're pushing fluid through the whole system might make the flow slow enough that it won't actually move the bubbles out of the MC. At the very least I'd suggest removing the brake lines from the MC and using hoses that go from the MC outlets back to the reservoir. If not, remove the MC from the car and do a full bench bleed. After that, still will want to run the ABS bleed to get any residual air out. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much air to kill the pedal feel and it can be a PITA to get out if it's trapped in the MC or ABS module.
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:29 PM   #21
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To add a little bit to the "flow slow enough that it won't move the bubbles" comment in the previous reply to this thread: I had a similar thought. The motive cap simply can't hold enough pressure in our reservoirs. It can't get even close to the pressure recommended in the service manual. In an attempt to address this I have purchased a different cap that is more similar to the "real" tool that is referenced in the service manuals. I bought: https://www.speedibleed.com/c600-gm-...r-adapter.html

Now, I haven't actually tried it yet, but I'm hopeful that this, in combination with a bench bleed, will help me actually remove the air from my system.
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:34 AM   #22
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Exactly the same issue here. Are there instructions on how to bleed the ABS and the master cylinder anywhere? What is the tool needed for the ABS bleed?
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:20 AM   #23
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Exactly the same issue here. Are there instructions on how to bleed the ABS and the master cylinder anywhere? What is the tool needed for the ABS bleed?
The master cylinder bleed process is listed in this thread already. For ABS you'll need access to GM's service bleed tools or a scanner that has that functionality. Since those are not necessarily the easiest to come by, you'll either have to take it to a dealer/shop or bleed the brakes the best that you can, go find a dirt/gravel road and do some ABS stops, then bleed the brakes by hand again.
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Old 06-01-2020, 05:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
The master cylinder bleed process is listed in this thread already. For ABS you'll need access to GM's service bleed tools or a scanner that has that functionality. Since those are not necessarily the easiest to come by, you'll either have to take it to a dealer/shop or bleed the brakes the best that you can, go find a dirt/gravel road and do some ABS stops, then bleed the brakes by hand again.
I can cycle the ABS no problem, just have to come to me, with scan tool you can cycle all 4 wheels individually one at a time. when i installed my line loc had the same problem everyone else had, scan tool fixed everything. GM MDI. Tech 2 only goes to 2014 year vehicles.
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:46 PM   #25
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Is there a proven recommended scan tool for the home user that is affordable?
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Old 06-02-2020, 06:35 AM   #26
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Is there a proven recommended scan tool for the home user that is affordable?
only the GM MDI, you can get a used one for about a grand+ GM subscription $599 or china clone for about $200+ .
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Old 06-03-2020, 07:42 AM   #27
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I wanted to update this thread with what I found to fix this issue.

Honestly I cannot pin point if it was air in the master cylinder or the ABS system as I bled them both in the same day without testing in between bleeding one then the other.

For the master cylinder, I did not remove it from the car. There is a strut brace near the master cylinder and to be honest I thought it would come right out so the master cylinder could easily be removed.
(see this thread for the brace I'm referring to https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=447974)
Just as mentioned in that thread the brace does not come out by simply unbolting the 3 fastener locations that hold it in place. There is a threaded stud on the fire wall that makes this difficult. So for this reason I decided to leave the master on the car.

I bled all calipers first, my intention was to run as much fluid through the master cylinder as possible in hopes of removing trapped air if that was indeed where it was at. After bleeding all the calipers I had a Snap-On scan tool that I rented from a local mechanic that allowed me to do an automated ABS bleed cycle. I followed the instructions in the scan tool and for sake of overkill I did the automated ABS bleed cycle twice, I figured I already had the scan tool in my possession and wanted to be 100% sure I had no air in the ABS. After the second time of bleeding the ABS I went back and bled each caliper again, overkill most likely but again I wanted to be 100% sure.

So after all the brake bleeding mentioned above my pedal feel came back to where it was when the car was new. I did still have an issue, which was the brake performance was not as good as new. I blame this on myself, last winter right before I put the car away for months I gave it a was. I did not drive the car after the was and simply pulled it in side for storage. Well come to find out setting all winter I had an issue with the front brake pads sticking to the rotors from rust. This was much worse than the normal stick I would get from not driving the car for a week that I had experienced in the past. There was significant rust on the rotor which seemed to compromise the brake pad's friction properties and I could not get them to burnish properly after this. I replaced the brake pads with new and was able to get them to burnish easily. After this I had the brakes back to 100%, pedal feel was great as is the performance.

I think I had a combination of issues and my fix may not be the same as someone else.
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Old 06-05-2020, 08:37 AM   #28
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Great info here. I guess I got lucky. The line from the front caliper directly into the master cylinder worked for me. I think I cycled the entire contents. I did see some small bubbles. amazing on how little air can greatly affect the brake system. I also did some hard stops on gravel to get the ABS pumps to activate.
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Old Camaro --- 94 Z28 Vert-- Miss it.
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