[waterman]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Do you change alignment back and forth before and after every event, and if so do you do this yourself?

I leave mine at 3.0 front, 2.0 rear always, switching is too costly and time consuming. I usually get a new alignment before each event.

I always have several sets of tires and after a track event I usually run the last track tires on street. I never drive in cold or rain, but if its a daily I know this doesn’t work.

I'm blessed.

I have a friend with a Hunter Hawk Eye in his shop. We barter services. Saves me a ton of money.

I run 3Rs full time, car is not a DD. 2 sets of OEM wheels, I run cycled tires on street as well.

I have had the luxury to experiment to find what works best for me. I'm on the rack before and after events.

I've had best success replacing both sets of TTY bolts, every other alignment. That's fortunately my biggest cost (excluding tires). FWIW, he has a super accurate screw/bolt thread micrometer that generally shows unacceptable stretch before 3rd alignment. I'm looking into SPL arms, I'm thinking that greater rigidity and eccentric lock out should eliminate that issue.

I digress, off topic.

OP, 0 poke on both alignment settings.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by waterman

I'm blessed.

I have a friend with a Hunter Hawk Eye in his shop. We barter services. Saves me a ton of money.

I run 3Rs full time, car is not a DD. 2 sets of OEM wheels, I run cycled tires on street as well.

I have had the luxury to experiment to find what works best for me. I'm on the rack before and after events.

I've had best success replacing both sets of TTY bolts, every other alignment. That's fortunately my biggest cost (excluding tires). FWIW, he has a super accurate screw/bolt thread micrometer that generally shows unacceptable stretch before 3rd alignment. I'm looking into SPL arms, I'm thinking that greater rigidity and eccentric lock out should eliminate that issue.

I digress, off topic.

OP, 0 poke on both alignment settings.

\

OK I run SPL Toe Arms on the rear of my 2019 SS 1LE. With those I run -2.4 degrees REAR camber and -3.1 degrees FRONT camber (using Vorshlag camber plates on the front) With those settings I run the following tire/wheel combinations that DO NOT have tire poke at the top of the wheel well but DO push the wheels and tires out from their stock positions.

APEX SM-10 ET25 19 x 10.5 wheels with MS 4S 305 30 19 tires for daily driving setup and

APEX EC-7 ET27 18 x 11 wheels with MICHELIM S8M slicks 30 38 18 tires for track (HERE I increase front camber to -3.6 degree front camber using 5MM spacers with extended thread lug nuts to avoid running extended length wheels studs)

Now I DID try to run -3.1 front camber on track as well and it also DID NOT have tire poke BUT the car handles better with -3.6 degrees front negative camber.

The MOST important setting to promote even tire wear is TOE IN TOE OUT settings. You want that be almost neutral. I got 20K miles and about 10 track days out of my FIRST set of MS 4S tires and tire wear was even. Since then of course I got a track only wheel/tire setup as described earlier.

[Wuiquen]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

\



OK I run SPL Toe Arms on the rear of my 2019 SS 1LE. With those I run -2.4 degrees REAR camber and -3.1 degrees FRONT camber (using Vorshlag camber plates on the front) With those settings I run the following tire/wheel combinations that DO NOT have tire poke at the top of the wheel well but DO push the wheels and tires out from their stock positions.



APEX SM-10 ET25 19 x 10.5 wheels with MS 4S 305 30 19 tires for daily driving setup and



APEX EC-7 ET27 18 x 11 wheels with MICHELIM S8M slicks 30 38 18 tires for track (HERE I increase front camber to -3.6 degree front camber using 5MM spacers with extended thread lug nuts to avoid running extended length wheels studs)



Now I DID try to run -3.1 front camber on track as well and it also DID NOT have tire poke BUT the car handles better with -3.6 degrees front negative camber.



The MOST important setting to promote even tire wear is TOE IN TOE OUT settings. You want that be almost neutral. I got 20K miles and about 10 track days out of my FIRST set of MS 4S tires and tire wear was even. Since then of course I got a track only wheel/tire setup as described earlier.

How will the tired wear our in the streets with those settings? I am getting familiar with the Camaro but on the Corvette, people that don't track are running -1 front and -.05 rear camber with zero toe front and back to prevent uneven wear. Is that the same for the Camaro?

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[infinitereality]

Got to do some measuring now that I have an alignment. Pretty much spot on with needing 9mm front, rear would need 6-7mm to be flush. This is fender to the edge of wheel.

That being said, I'll probably err on the side of caution and go with 1mm shorter. It's definitely not alot, but I'd rather be a little more tucked than little more poked.

Once they come in, longer studs tapped in and spacers installed I'll see how it looks with the 3mm rears and then test fit the 5mm to see which I like best. Will update with pics soon

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

Got to do some measuring now that I have an alignment. Pretty much spot on with needing 9mm front, rear would need 6-7mm to be flush. This is fender to the edge of wheel.

That being said, I'll probably err on the side of caution and go with 1mm shorter. It's definitely not alot, but I'd rather be a little more tucked than little more poked.

Once they come in, longer studs tapped in and spacers installed I'll see how it looks with the 3mm rears and then test fit the 5mm to see which I like best. Will update with pics soon

If you are going to run 5MM spacers or less you DONT need extended wheel studs. I use EXTENDED Lug Nuts to accomplish the same purpose because THAT way you can fully engage 11-13 threads on the STOCK stud and that is all you need. A standard lug nut with 3-5MM spacer installed and you can get maybe 7 complete turns and THAT is not enough.

[infinitereality]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

If you are going to run 5MM spacers or less you DONT need extended wheel studs. I use EXTENDED Lug Nuts to accomplish the same purpose because THAT way you can fully engage 11-13 threads on the STOCK stud and that is all you need. A standard lug nut with 3-5MM spacer installed and you can get maybe 7 complete turns and THAT is not enough.

Once I get the longer studs installed on the front to run the larger spacers, then I can see how the 3mm and 5mm spacers look for the rear with stock studs.

I'm not sure I follow you with extended lug nuts vs extended studs for same purpose. If you're running a 5mm spacer with stock studs, regardless of the lug nut length used, there still is only going to be able xx length of threads remaining to use. I'm probably missing something here.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

Once I get the longer studs installed on the front to run the larger spacers, then I can see how the 3mm and 5mm spacers look for the rear with stock studs.

I'm not sure I follow you with extended lug nuts vs extended studs for same purpose. If you're running a 5mm spacer with stock studs, regardless of the lug nut length used, there still is only going to be able xx length of threads remaining to use. I'm probably missing something here.

Well yeah you are missing something (LOL). An extended lug nut has a shoulder that actually goes THROUGH the lug nut hole in the wheel so it engages the threads BEFORE they exit to the outside of the lug nut hole. PIC below shows extended lug nut compared to standard lug nut. Both are Gorilla Locks.

[infinitereality]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Well yeah you are missing something (LOL). An extended lug nut has a shoulder that actually goes THROUGH the lug nut hole in the wheel so it engages the threads BEFORE they exit to the outside of the lug nut hole. PIC below shows extended lug nut compared to standard lug nut. Both are Gorilla Locks.

THAT is what I was missing, totally thought extended only meant deeper. I actually run those on my SLC, although I never knew the term was for them. Thanks for the info!

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

THAT is what I was missing, totally thought extended only meant deeper. I actually run those on my SLC, although I never knew the term was for them. Thanks for the info!

NO PROBLEM!!!

[infinitereality]

Waiting on spacers to arrive, but wanted to update thread if anyone else is reading and curious to what it "should" take to get OEM wheels flush. Will follow with pictures when I spacers arrive and studs swapped.

12-13mm spacer front, 2-3mm spacer rear.

Since I have 5mm/3mm spacers I did some testing visually before ordering. I liked 10mm front with a 3mm rear. It won't be quite flush, but felt I should err on side of caution for what I'm looking for.

Now that it's been a few days since I ordered, I'm pretty sure it won't be enough, lol. BUT I'll have spare spacers on hand now so will swap the old 5mm in the rear and add the 3mm to the fronts.

Will pull out my QuickJacks for all this swapping, I'll thank myself later, lol.

[infinitereality]

Little update. Extended studs (very easy swap), MRR M017 wheels (23/43 offsets), 10mm front and 5mm rear spacers.

This is as flush as I can currently get without extended lugs or swapping in extended studs for rear. I tried 3mm on rear, but they appeared more inside fender than fronts.

Will test out 15/10mm combo soon to see how I like it, if so I'll order some extended lugs as suggested so I can actually drive with them. I wish I could get a shorter version of them like other lug nut in picture, but doesn't look like Gorilla makes any.

[Wuiquen]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

Little update. Extended studs (very easy swap), MRR M017 wheels (23/43 offsets), 10mm front and 5mm rear spacers.



This is as flush as I can currently get without extended lugs or swapping in extended studs for rear. I tried 3mm on rear, but they appeared more inside fender than fronts.



Will test out 15/10mm combo soon to see how I like it, if so I'll order some extended lugs as suggested so I can actually drive with them. I wish I could get a shorter version of them like other lug nut in picture, but doesn't look like Gorilla makes any.

Looking good. The 15/10 combo will look almost perfect... I also love those wheels. I consider wheels the SS 1LE wheel before i got the ZL1 1LE wheels but I couldn't get past the fact that the ZL1 1LE wheels have way more concave look and that is what I like...

Your car looks awesome..

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[infinitereality]

Originally Posted by Wuiquen

Looking good. The 15/10 combo will look almost perfect... I also love those wheels. I consider wheels the SS 1LE wheel before i got the ZL1 1LE wheels but I couldn't get past the fact that the ZL1 1LE wheels have way more concave look and that is what I like...

Your car looks awesome..

Thanks! Same here, always loved these wheels since I first saw the SS1LE. Some may even consider these a downgrade on a ZL1, lol, but they're much easier to clean plus can finally see those big Brembos. I did not realize the ZLE wheels were even more concave than these, but never have seen a ZLE parked to see in person.

End game is, in a sense, make my own version of a ZLE, visually. Adding a little ZLE aero to match future wheel poke with the 15/10 spacers. I just havent 100% committed (maybe 90%) that I will dig it enough I'll be glad I cut the slots in my bumper for the canards. Really would like cut tabs off and use 3M VHB to attach outside edge of canards to bumper, but don't know if it'll hold good at high speeds.

Probably will test other spacer combos until I get the look I want. I'll post pictures in this thread as I test combos out.

[Wuiquen]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

Thanks! Same here, always loved these wheels since I first saw the SS1LE. Some may even consider these a downgrade on a ZL1, lol, but they're much easier to clean plus can finally see those big Brembos. I did not realize the ZLE wheels were even more concave than these, but never have seen a ZLE parked to see in person.

End game is, in a sense, make my own version of a ZLE, visually. Adding a little ZLE aero to match future wheel poke with the 15/10 spacers. I just havent 100% committed (maybe 90%) that I will dig it enough I'll be glad I cut the slots in my bumper for the canards. Really would like cut tabs off and use 3M VHB to attach outside edge of canards to bumper, but don't know if it'll hold good at high speeds.

Probably will test other spacer combos until I get the look I want. I'll post pictures in this thread as I test combos out.

I am getting my high wing in a week or two. And i have the rest of the 1LE aero sitting on the garage. I can't wait. I am 100 percent certain i will love it. I miss my 1LE looks

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