[Deuce22]

Originally Posted by Ricco

Wait, what? GM replaced the motor in your ZL1? What happened to the first one?

Undiagnosable oil consumption (1 qt every 500 to 800 miles). Tore engine down - extremely severe piston & valve coking throughout at only 6,000 miles - looked like it had 100,000 miles on it. They stepped up and replaced the whole engine. Runs like a completely different car now - and obviously now I'm a "fan-of-the-can"...

[Biscuit.fr]

Easy way to reverse it?
I want to go for it
But in summer 2019 back to France I have to put the car stock for the European homologation and then reput the Can after...
Do you think the sensor will be brokable when I have to remove it?
Do I have to order extra joints for it?
...

[Biscuit.fr]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

This is our E2-X Ultra can and although it is tight, it fits. You can also mount it off the driverside strut tower mount using a combo bracket:






And what your stopping:





PCV cartridge location you replace with our billet diverter valve:





Hope this helps all. The cooler the location, the better, but these are tight engine compartments. All is the same as the LT4 Z06 except the mount location. And even on the CAI box is another some have done. Them you just drill 2 holes in the box and push bolts through to the C clamp.

Removed my cover today
1/the green sealant is plastic and part of the cover
Reusable
Not so hard to answer...
2/ I have less oil than in this picture with 9000 miles on the car
3/ watch the torque when you put the cover back
I put 86 when on YouTube they said 89
First one broke!!!!!
So????
Removed it and torque the rest manually

Other question:
When you retire 1/2 glass of oil from your can,
Is it part of the total 10qts of the engine?
Does that mean you have to refill the car with the same amount after?

The oil removed:
Helps to have pure air in the intake
But isn’t it cool to have some to lubricate the engine ?

[Elite Engineering]

Good questions Biscuit.


You never want to have what is caught in the engine. Lubrication is inside the crankcase, never in the intake air charge or as part of the combustion mixture unless the engine is a 2 stroke engine and oil designed to burn clean. Any amount of oil present where there should be only air/fuel mixture causes detonation (knock retard), disrupts the burn pattern, rate of burn, and the flame front. So no, there is nothing to lubricate from the combustion side of the engine.


Next, what is caught is not just oil. Here is a breakdown when the contents of our can is spun in a centrifuge and analysed in the lab:





70% is water and acids.
23% is raw unburnt fuel, and 7% is oil saturated with abrasive particulate matter. (Soot, Ash, and Carbon) so only a small portion is oil.


Some cans return this to the crankcase which results in premature wear and failure over time.


Lot's of science to all of this, and most cans are made on assumptions only.


Ask more questions, were here to assist any way possible.


Cheers!

[Elite Engineering]

Deuce22, and this is what we prevent up to 85% of among several other benefits. East to reverse and remove it all. Save your stock parts, and we can also provide a black plug to cap the one hole you drill. Easy to put back to stock if that is a concern. The benefits are so dramatic on a GDI engine it is night and day.

[Biscuit.fr]

Tx very much for all the explanations.

I understand only 7% of oil doesn’t return to the engine (old burnt catch +1)
What’s the quantity we can trap ?
Almost one glass ?
How often do de have to purge ? (Every 2-3000miles)
Twice between oil change....
Do we have to readjust the engine oil level on each purge?
Or just unsignifixant as it’s about 7% lost...

I need to reverse and go back just for the EU homologation.
Nice to have a black cap to close the hole in the intake pipe!
What about the PCV?
Is there a cap also to close the new one in place of the pipe, or do we have to put back the old one?
Appreciate

[Biscuit.fr]

I'll go for it.
I will contact you to order one.

I also understand the WORST issue will be to have a full can, then you have all the shit going to the intake.... instead of pure air.
Does it have, or will you mod something to include a gauge?
(clear tube on the side, or clear can to see the level)

[Elite Engineering]

Our standard E2-X is close to 1 qt capacity, most are 3-6 oz's so no comparison there. You do want to drain and document after the first 2,000 miles to determine the rate your engine produces. All are different depending on how well the rings seated, etc. so that you will find, and as most cans that are small allow 85% to be pulled through, there is little benefit. You also never want to let one fill. Ours can fill to 1/3rd capacity and still retain 95% effectiveness. But as it over fills that declines rapidly. No sight glass or tube, if in doubt, open the 1/4 turn ball valve drain and drain. Always drain when engine is warm and off. Dispose of the contents as you would any drain oil. Properly to be processed and recycled.


Sake all of your stock parts, most is left intact and yes, the black matching plug can be requested if you are going to return it to stock. The ZL1 save your stock PCV cartridge as we replace it with the billet diverter valve.


It is very simple. You will be amazed at what was being ingested before our system was installed, and to test ANY can against our design, simply start with both cans totally clean. Install the E2-X in series AFTER the other can and drive 2,000 miles. Drain both making sure all contents are out, document how much each caught. Now clean both again of all contents and reverse the order. While the E2-X will catch as much or more than any other design showing how much gets past 99% of can brands/designs, you will only see droplets get past the E2-X. That challenge we have had public for years, and you can see the results in threads here and elsewhere. Always performed by someone not affiliated with us in any way, and you will notice one popular name refuses to allow their can to be tested this way.


As always, Technical questions email our Tech Support team directly at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and sales at: Sales@EliteEngineeringUSA.com

[LiqTenExp]

What model will work with Magnuson 2300 blower and LT4?

[Rock_n_Rolla]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Our standard E2-X is close to 1 qt capacity, most are 3-6 oz's so no comparison there. You do want to drain and document after the first 2,000 miles to determine the rate your engine produces. All are different depending on how well the rings seated, etc. so that you will find, and as most cans that are small allow 85% to be pulled through, there is little benefit. You also never want to let one fill. Ours can fill to 1/3rd capacity and still retain 95% effectiveness. But as it over fills that declines rapidly. No sight glass or tube, if in doubt, open the 1/4 turn ball valve drain and drain. Always drain when engine is warm and off. Dispose of the contents as you would any drain oil. Properly to be processed and recycled.


Sake all of your stock parts, most is left intact and yes, the black matching plug can be requested if you are going to return it to stock. The ZL1 save your stock PCV cartridge as we replace it with the billet diverter valve.


It is very simple. You will be amazed at what was being ingested before our system was installed, and to test ANY can against our design, simply start with both cans totally clean. Install the E2-X in series AFTER the other can and drive 2,000 miles. Drain both making sure all contents are out, document how much each caught. Now clean both again of all contents and reverse the order. While the E2-X will catch as much or more than any other design showing how much gets past 99% of can brands/designs, you will only see droplets get past the E2-X. That challenge we have had public for years, and you can see the results in threads here and elsewhere. Always performed by someone not affiliated with us in any way, and you will notice one popular name refuses to allow their can to be tested this way.


As always, Technical questions email our Tech Support team directly at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and sales at: Sales@EliteEngineeringUSA.com

What do you guys think about the placement on the Zl1 right above the drivers side header? does the heat of the exhaust reduce it's effectiveness?

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Rock_n_Rolla

What do you guys think about the placement on the Zl1 right above the drivers side header? does the heat of the exhaust reduce it's effectiveness?

The cooler the better. Unfortunately, there are not many placement options in the ZL1.

[Elite Engineering]

We have kits in both our E2 and E2-X Catch Cans listed on our website. The E2-X is a nice kit. Choose, then pick make/model/year, etc. You do NOT need the cleanside separator if retaining the OEM one located on the front of the passenger side cylinder head.


If over 12# use the E2-X Ultra. And any questions on application, etc. with our systems or another, just email our tech support: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com


Thanks!

[Biscuit.fr]

2 last questions:
-for ZL1 LT4 it doesn’t Specify can only, or kit...
Assume it’s the full kit including diverting pcv..(do you confirm?)
-fixations?
I read somewhere we can chose the one to fix on the suspension bracket...
No pictures of this one, No choice on your website?
Can you add this choice of fixation?
(Like extra tubes...)

[Mcardenal]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

We have kits in both our E2 and E2-X Catch Cans listed on our website. The E2-X is a nice kit. Choose, then pick make/model/year, etc. You do NOT need the cleanside separator if retaining the OEM one located on the front of the passenger side cylinder head.


If over 12# use the E2-X Ultra. And any questions on application, etc. with our systems or another, just email our tech support: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com


Thanks!

I noticed the drop down offer both a single valve or dual. All the ones I see pictures of are the dual. What is the difference?