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Old 04-17-2020, 11:22 AM   #1
Trochoidal

 
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8
Join Date: May 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 1,656
Velossa - Ram Air

Here’s data from results of the following modifications compiled for my data logs on my car.

NO Velossa Stock CAI, TB & IM
RPM - 6246
MPH - 84
Cyl airmass - 0.81g
MAP - 96 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2629 lb/hr (331 g/s)
MAF sensor- 8403 hz

Velossa Stock CAI, TB & IM
RPM - 6243
MPH - 86
Cyl airmass - 0.83g
MAP - 96 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2695 lb/hr (339 g/s)
MAF sensor- 8438 hz

Velossa, Stock CAI, Katech ported 87 TB & PP IM
RPM - 6252
MPH - 87
Cyl airmass - .84g
MAP - 97 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2817 lb/hr (355 g/s)
MAF sensor - 8421 hz
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Roto-Fab w/sound tube delete, Katech ported TB, Pray IM, Velossa, DD side markers, DSX FF, UPR Catch can, Halo brace, My custom vent gauge pod

Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 04-17-2020, 04:13 PM   #2
RobbyBeefcake87

 
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No numbers withe the cai?
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2000 Miata - aventi storm wheels, roll bar.
2019 Mustang GT pp1 - svt pp2 wheels, mbrp cat back, sync 3 upgrade, p1x procharger + stg2 intercooler.
2018 Colorado zr2 - zr2 sport bar, showcase spare tire.
2018 Camaro SS 1LE - GM cai, black bowties, suede knee bolsters, 1le plate frame, black fuel door, dark tails + 3rd brake light, euro side markers + led's, GM all weather floor mats, velossatech big mouth, GM strut brace.
2017 Corvette Grandsport (sold) - untouched.
2006 GTO (sold) - iat relocation, air box mod, monero side marker lights.
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Old 04-17-2020, 04:36 PM   #3
Trochoidal

 
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Not yet but that’s next. I’m gonna pop that thing back in place this weekend and get those numbers too.

The Katech and RF were on the car and they were removed to get a “from stock” perspective. Swapping IM, getting logs and clean up consumed the time allocated for the day.

I know, the CAI isn’t that big of a deal to install but I actually want to get numbers on the CAI with stock tube and RF tube. Probably not going to be a notable difference.

Overall you can see I picked up 3MPH.
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Roto-Fab w/sound tube delete, Katech ported TB, Pray IM, Velossa, DD side markers, DSX FF, UPR Catch can, Halo brace, My custom vent gauge pod

Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 04-17-2020, 06:09 PM   #4
z28pat

 
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3 mph, that sounds Great , gonna have to get one , did you have to remove the front cover to install ?
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:20 PM   #5
Trochoidal

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z28pat View Post
3 mph, that sounds Great , gonna have to get one , did you have to remove the front cover to install ?
No I didn’t chose to install by removing the front cover. Let’s see how well I do from memory.

1) Mark hood latch

2) Measure rubber hood stops (yellow)

3) Measure what I call a front fascia jack screw/radiator cover height adjuster (yellow)

4) Remove fascia trim bolts (red) (10 bolts ???) (pay attention to high tight these bolts are now because they’re not very tight)

5) Remove radiator cover bolts (green) (6 bolts)

Side note: I think there’s a Christmas tree clip of the face of the left side that I feel I had to remove in order to get cover off. I had plenty of new ones but I ended up using the expanding push style clip to replace the Christmas tree clip.

6) Remove radiator cover. Best way to describe this is to pull up on the engine side at about a 20° to 30° angle. Do this equally right and left. At some point it feels like it stops moving. No worries. Take a peek and you’ll notice the dual 90°ish degree bends in the metal. At this point give it a little muscle. The plastic fascia trim will in fact start moving but nothing wants to break. If you pull unequal from the right of left side the cover starts to pinch itself and jams. Walk away if you get frustrated. Grab a cold something good to drink and walk back and try again.

7) Remove hood latch through the grille. I used a 3/8” drive, swivel and a short 6 point socket.

8) Remove 3 Christmas tree clips at plastic cover in front of air box. (I used trim tools, by now up to adult beverage and walked away several times).

9) Install Velossa ram air. Put the small side in first, where the hood release was, down and to the left. Wiggle it beyond the headlight housing and start tucking behind the rubber.

10) Attach ram air to tube as stated in instructions. Don’t over-tighten.

11) Install angled plugs to cover bolts ram air hardware.

12) Put cover back in place.

13) Install expandable trim plug on passenger side fascia face.

14) Bolt down cover (6 bolts)

15) Install rubber hood stops (2) and front fascia height adjustment bolts. (2)

16) Install front fascia trim bolts. (10 bolts???) (I only used the extension shaft to tighten these with my hands)

17) Attach hood latch.

18) Adjust hood latch. (While this was marked it may take a few (7) times to get good to close. Good time to walk away and have another adult beverage).

Tip:

When re-installing the hood latch bolts, the Velossa was in the way for the driver side bolt. The 3/8” extension fits without the socket. I sat the hood latch on top of the radiator cover. Once the extension was within reach I attached the 13mm socket and swivel to the extension. Grabbed the bolt, put it in the socket and guided it through the hood latch and put the bolt back in. (This is a balancing act. I didn’t drop any bolts, but be careful if you do it this way, there’s a cooler below).
Attached Images
  
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Roto-Fab w/sound tube delete, Katech ported TB, Pray IM, Velossa, DD side markers, DSX FF, UPR Catch can, Halo brace, My custom vent gauge pod

Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“

Last edited by Trochoidal; 04-17-2020 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 04-18-2020, 06:05 PM   #6
RobbyBeefcake87

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trochoidal View Post
Not yet but that’s next. I’m gonna pop that thing back in place this weekend and get those numbers too.

The Katech and RF were on the car and they were removed to get a “from stock” perspective. Swapping IM, getting logs and clean up consumed the time allocated for the day.

I know, the CAI isn’t that big of a deal to install but I actually want to get numbers on the CAI with stock tube and RF tube. Probably not going to be a notable difference.

Overall you can see I picked up 3MPH.
I'm definately not trying to sound demanding, you're doing gods work! Just curious since I'm stock minus a cai.

Was the 3mph was the car stock vs stock with velossatech, or stock vs velossatech and ported IM/TB?
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2000 Miata - aventi storm wheels, roll bar.
2019 Mustang GT pp1 - svt pp2 wheels, mbrp cat back, sync 3 upgrade, p1x procharger + stg2 intercooler.
2018 Colorado zr2 - zr2 sport bar, showcase spare tire.
2018 Camaro SS 1LE - GM cai, black bowties, suede knee bolsters, 1le plate frame, black fuel door, dark tails + 3rd brake light, euro side markers + led's, GM all weather floor mats, velossatech big mouth, GM strut brace.
2017 Corvette Grandsport (sold) - untouched.
2006 GTO (sold) - iat relocation, air box mod, monero side marker lights.
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Old 04-18-2020, 06:34 PM   #7
Trochoidal

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbyBeefcake87 View Post
I'm definately not trying to sound demanding, you're doing gods work! Just curious since I'm stock minus a cai.

Was the 3mph was the car stock vs stock with velossatech, or stock vs velossatech and ported IM/TB?
Nah you’re not be demanding. I actually meant to clarify the first post. There was a 2mph gain with just the Velossa with factory CAI, factory TB & factory IM. The last MPH came from the ported TB, ported IM and factory CAI.

Tomorrow I’ll put the RF back on and get another log.
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Roto-Fab w/sound tube delete, Katech ported TB, Pray IM, Velossa, DD side markers, DSX FF, UPR Catch can, Halo brace, My custom vent gauge pod

Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 04-18-2020, 07:09 PM   #8
Adampau123
 
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Correct me if I’m wrong but... you’re not going to gain speed at the same rpm in same gear with mods. Gear ratios are gear ratios more power will just get you there faster.
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Old 04-18-2020, 08:16 PM   #9
Jaxcam02

 
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I managed to get mine in by just unbolting the hood latch and removing the radiator cover.
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Old 04-18-2020, 11:59 PM   #10
s346k


 
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yeah i don’t understand the speed designation, either. doesn’t it stand to reason that the other numbers would go up by default as speed increases?
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Old 04-19-2020, 02:27 AM   #11
RobbyBeefcake87

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
yeah i don’t understand the speed designation, either. doesn’t it stand to reason that the other numbers would go up by default as speed increases?
I don't either unless it was done using some sort of consistent timer for each pull beggining at the same starting rpm/speed measuring the mph and rpm, as well as the other airflow metrics, at the end of the alloted time for the pull. Not discrediting it, just saying I don't know what to make of the mph data without knowing the procedure.

The rest of the numbers look good and makse sense to me.
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2000 Miata - aventi storm wheels, roll bar.
2019 Mustang GT pp1 - svt pp2 wheels, mbrp cat back, sync 3 upgrade, p1x procharger + stg2 intercooler.
2018 Colorado zr2 - zr2 sport bar, showcase spare tire.
2018 Camaro SS 1LE - GM cai, black bowties, suede knee bolsters, 1le plate frame, black fuel door, dark tails + 3rd brake light, euro side markers + led's, GM all weather floor mats, velossatech big mouth, GM strut brace.
2017 Corvette Grandsport (sold) - untouched.
2006 GTO (sold) - iat relocation, air box mod, monero side marker lights.

Last edited by RobbyBeefcake87; 04-19-2020 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 04-19-2020, 08:48 AM   #12
95 imp
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The way I'm reading it by KPA.

The last run had more pressure in the mani, which is the ram air effect *slightly* pressurizing the intake.

The volume aspect (g/s) could also be the ram air effect, colder (dense) air, just opening up the system more, or a combo of those variables.

IAT logging would be helpful!

Any way you look at it, the data shows more air flowing as the steps progress!
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Old 04-19-2020, 09:53 PM   #13
Trochoidal

 
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8
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Location: USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 imp View Post
The way I'm reading it by KPA.

The last run had more pressure in the mani, which is the ram air effect *slightly* pressurizing the intake.

The volume aspect (g/s) could also be the ram air effect, colder (dense) air, just opening up the system more, or a combo of those variables.

IAT logging would be helpful!

Any way you look at it, the data shows more air flowing as the steps progress!


Latest log. This one was with Velossa, ported IM, ported TB and RF (stock/OEM tube on the RF. One day I’ll toss the plastic tube from RF on and share results).
Attached Images
 
__________________
Roto-Fab w/sound tube delete, Katech ported TB, Pray IM, Velossa, DD side markers, DSX FF, UPR Catch can, Halo brace, My custom vent gauge pod

Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 04-19-2020, 09:57 PM   #14
Trochoidal

 
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8
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Location: USA
Posts: 1,656
Updated data with IAT from previous logs.

No Velossa Stock CAI, TB & IM
RPM - 6246
MPH - 84
Cyl airmass - 0.81g
MAP - 96 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2629 lb/hr (331 g/s)
MAF sensor- 8403 hz
Ambient - 55°
IAT - 64°

Velossa Stock CAI, TB & IM
RPM - 6243
MPH - 86
Cyl airmass - 0.83g
MAP - 96 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2695 lb/hr (339 g/s)
MAF sensor- 8438 hz
Ambient - 61°
IAT 1 - 64°

Velossa, Stock CAI, Katech ported 87 TB & PP IM
RPM - 6252
MPH - 87
Cyl airmass - .84g
MAP - 97 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2817 lb/hr (355 g/s)
MAF sensor - 8421 hz
Ambient - 52°
IAT 1 - 54°

Velossa, RF with Factory/OEM rubber tube, Katech ported 87 TB & PP IM
RPM - 6187
MPH - 86
Cyl airmass - .87g
MAP - 97 kPa
MAF (SAE) - 2817 lb/hr (355 g/s)
MAF sensor - 8639 hz
Ambient - 59°
IAT 1 - 59°
__________________
Roto-Fab w/sound tube delete, Katech ported TB, Pray IM, Velossa, DD side markers, DSX FF, UPR Catch can, Halo brace, My custom vent gauge pod

Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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