[Kerry]

Looking for anyone have experience useing this oil with the stock ss?

[kropscamaro16]

why would you use 15w50 in your ss? i use 5w40 year round and i also track my car

[Kerry]

Well after it sized a rod bering with no damage or sighs of deto on the pistons. Then looking at the other berrings like the cam berrings Im thinking it needs a little more protection than the 0w40. Car is boosted makeing 650 maybe a little more.

[FarmerFran]

What the...

This thread went sideways fast. I am a bone stock 5-30/0-40 guy. No help there but I know there are a lot of folks here that are heavily modified so you might try one of the sub forums below. Like the boosted section

[Puddin]

I'm not boosted but highly modified N/A and I run either Valvoline VR1 10w30 full synthetic or AMSoil zrod 10w30.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Looking for anyone have experience useing this oil with the stock ss?

I would definitely head over to bobistheoilguy for some advice.
Moving from 5w-30/0w-40 to 15w-50 sounds like a big move to me.
Assuming you start this car in the Tennessee cold, that 15w at cold start might be a problem.

Warmed up, you are going to be running higher pressure. Then you need to worry about the bypass pressure rating for your filter. You don't want to blow by the stock filter's media.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Well after it sized a rod bering with no damage or sighs of deto on the pistons. Then looking at the other berrings like the cam berrings Im thinking it needs a little more protection than the 0w40. Car is boosted makeing 650 maybe a little more.

More than likely there was detonation and that's what fried your bearings. Especially on a boosted car @ 11/1.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

I would definitely head over to bobistheoilguy for some advice.
Moving from 5w-30/0w-40 to 15w-50 sounds like a big move to me.
Assuming you start this car in the Tennessee cold, that 15w at cold start might be a problem.

Warmed up, you are going to be running higher pressure. Then you need to worry about the bypass pressure rating for your filter. You don't want to blow by the stock filter's media.

15w50 was the only oil recommended for track use until 0w40 dex2 became available

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

15w50 was the only oil recommended for track use until 0w40 dex2 became available

This is what my (2016) manual says:

6.2L (LT1) Engine

Change the engine oil to 0W-40 or
5W-40 that meets the dexos2

™

specification. If this oil is not
available, the following oils can be
used as an alternative: Valvoline

®

SYNPOWER MST 5W-40, Mobil

® 1
ESP Formula M 5W-40. See

Capacities and Specifications 0 331.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

This is what my (2016) manual says:

6.2L (LT1) Engine

Change the engine oil to 0W-40 or
5W-40 that meets the dexos2

™

specification. If this oil is not
available, the following oils can be
used as an alternative: Valvoline

®

SYNPOWER MST 5W-40, Mobil

® 1
ESP Formula M 5W-40. See

Capacities and Specifications 0 331.

I've got to quit relying on my memory. As I get older it just isn't as reliable as it once was! I could have sworn that 15w50 was recommended for the track. I must have been thinking about the ZLE.
For what it's worth, i run 0w40 for street and track

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I've got to quit relying on my memory. As I get older it just isn't as reliable as it once was! I could have sworn that 15w50 was recommended for the track. I must have been thinking about the ZLE.
For what it's worth, i run 0w40 for street and track

IIRC my 2017 manual says 15W-50 was allowed for track use on the LT1 engine, but ONLY for track use. Supposed to drain and fill with a 30 or 40 weight before driving home on the street. ZL1 1LE is required to switch to 15W-50 for track use and switch back to 40 weight for street driving as well.


@OP, since you aren't actually stock anymore you might be better off switching to a 15W-50 for track use but still running 40 on the street. Would give you more protection in the high-demand environment while not overloading the oil pump all the time in normal driving.

[Warrior102]

M1 0W-40 European FS has 15W-50 anti-wear additive levels with better cold weather performance. If you don't run a catch can or if your engine is an oil burner it could cause O2 and CAT issues late in life (75 - 100K (or not)). Manufactures are pushing low SAPS oil not because it's that good for your engine they are looking out for themselves, ever since the feds mandated extended emissions warranties the levels of phosphorus, zinc and sulfated ash have been reduced. Look at any quality racing or motorcycle performance motor oils and you'll find elevated levels of the above.

[KingLT1]

Oil weight likely wasn't the cause of your failure as I mentioned in another thread you started. The fact is many over think oil these days. Run whatever weight that tickles your taint in full synthetic and change it regularly. If your engine blows up it likely wasn't the oils fault.

[JSH]

Doesn't Chevy call for 15W50 at the track