Spots on bezel plastic

[SS-E-YA]

No luck with paint finishing polish either. Might be stuck with them!

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by SS-E-YA

No luck with paint finishing polish either. Might be stuck with them!

Are you sure they are on the outside and not inside the lens?

Use a flashlight and look at them from an angle.

Also there wouldn't be any use to try toothpaste or baking soda paste, these are less abrasive then a finishing polish.

[Reichler]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Also there wouldn't be any use to try toothpaste or baking soda paste, these are less abrasive then a finishing polish.

Do you make this shit up as you go?

To say toothpaste is less aggressive than a finishing polish (or more specifically FMP or PFP) makes me question any detailing advise you've ever given out.

Go throw some toothpaste on your car with a white finishing pad and your choice of a polisher. Then do the same with PFP or FMP and tell me the results.

Quit giving out incorrect advise just to have something to say.

[Tecca]

Glad to see this place hasn't changed much.

First thing, to clear up the toothpaste war. Toothpaste has been used for years to remove haze and light scratches even to clean up headlights. Although it would be my last choice here from what I am hearing from the OP.

I highly doubt that the problem is on the inside unless someone has taken the speedo apart as it is welded in place if I remember correctly. If it is on the inside and the speedo hasn't been taken apart still unlikely though I would complain to your dealer as this should not happen.

First thing I would suggest if you move forward is take the bezel off it will really save you some time. If it was me I would even take the speedo out it is a pretty easy dismantle.

I clearly see this as a chemical etching, who knows from what. However one way or another you should be able to feel something.

I would then try a plastic polish like Novus to repair the problem, if that does not touch it I would then move up and wet sand it. Start small with 1500 or 2000 and move on up.

Last case scenario if you are OCD and not comfortable doing any of the following spend $2-300 and have it replaced.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by Reichler

Do you make this shit up as you go?

To say toothpaste is less aggressive than a finishing polish (or more specifically FMP or PFP) makes me question any detailing advise you've ever given out.

Go throw some toothpaste on your car with a white finishing pad and your choice of a polisher. Then do the same with PFP or FMP and tell me the results.

Quit giving out incorrect advise just to have something to say.

I have been detailing cars on and off for 30 years, I don't make suggestions unless I have used a process and found it to be beneficial.

I also don't knock a product or process I have never used, until I have used it.

I haven't seen your suggestion that solved the issue by the way, since you are such a great detailer, and I am so bad of one?

[Reichler]

All I'm saying is the specific product that the OP used (Adam's PFP) is NOT more aggressive than toothpaste. You said if a finishing polish (but more specifically PFP since that's what the OP used) didn't work, then don't try toothpaste as it's less aggressive. That's simply incorrect. It's slightly more aggressive than PFP.

I've taken out some pretty heavy towel scratches and spots from numerous plastic instrument lenses over the years. The best option for the OP, if PFP with a good quality Korean microfiber didn't work, would be to step up to a foam pad next with the same polish. Going off of what the OP has in his stock, I would start with the PFP and a soft red foam applicator. If that doesn't work, step up to a blue hex grip pad, then to an orange pad. If that still doesn't work, he could step to the PCP with a microfiber, and continue following the previous progression of pads if still no improvement.

For the worst scratches I've had to deal with, I've pulled the lenses and used 4" orange and white pads with a cordless drill to eradicate them. I've yet to encounter a stain or scratch where this option didn't pull them out.

Outside of those options, which would be polishes the OP has on hand, Novus Plastic Polishes are phenomenal and would be my suggestion if he needed to buy a new product.

Finally, if all of those options don't work, you're obviously dealing with heavy etching which would require removing the lens and either wet-sanding if possible or ultimately looking for a new lens if available.

[SS-E-YA]

I have 4" green, white, and orange focus pads.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by Reichler

All I'm saying is the specific product that the OP used (Adam's PFP) is NOT more aggressive than toothpaste. You said if a finishing polish (but more specifically PFP since that's what the OP used) didn't work, then don't try toothpaste as it's less aggressive. That's simply incorrect. It's slightly more aggressive than PFP.

I've taken out some pretty heavy towel scratches and spots from numerous plastic instrument lenses over the years. The best option for the OP, if PFP with a good quality Korean microfiber didn't work, would be to step up to a foam pad next with the same polish. Going off of what the OP has in his stock, I would start with the PFP and a soft red foam applicator. If that doesn't work, step up to a blue hex grip pad, then to an orange pad. If that still doesn't work, he could step to the PCP with a microfiber, and continue following the previous progression of pads if still no improvement.

For the worst scratches I've had to deal with, I've pulled the lenses and used 4" orange and white pads with a cordless drill to eradicate them. I've yet to encounter a stain or scratch where this option didn't pull them out.

Outside of those options, which would be polishes the OP has on hand, Novus Plastic Polishes are phenomenal and would be my suggestion if he needed to buy a new product.

Finally, if all of those options don't work, you're obviously dealing with heavy etching which would require removing the lens and either wet-sanding if possible or ultimately looking for a new lens if available.

What do you think the abrasive is in a DAT polish like the OP used? Aluminum Oxide, it's used in most every compound/polish sold.

What do you think the abrasive is in toothpaste?
Silica, calcium carbonate and or/calcium phosphate, all less abrasive then aluminum oxide. Gel has very little abrasives in it, less then a finishing polish.

The recommendation was based on what the OP stated in the original post that he had. Which was Adams Glass Cleaner. He never stated he had any type of machine or polishes.

Furthermore, these are not towel scratches, they are chemical etchings. The polish he used should be at least capable of removing 2500/3000 grit sand marks. As he stated he removed none of the spots, even the very small ones, this tells me that the spots are etched, or on the inside.

How deep are they etched? No way to know from just that pic.

It is also possible they are on the inside, someone sprayed whatever cleaning solution they used directly on the lens, excess seeped through the edge, and after the water evaporated inside the chemical remained and left spots.

At this point if I was the OP I would follow what Tecca already posted, remove the lens.

I don't make recommendations for products that require a machine unless I know the person has one. I don't recommendations for wetsanding unless I know someone has prior experience doing it. In this case I had no knowledge of the OP having either.

And lastly I sure as hell don't accuse people of "making S%^T up" , unless I have 100% proof that they did, which you do not.

I was trying to help the OP based on what he stated he had to work with.

For the OP, to remove the lens first remove the grey plastic cover, I just did this on my 2012, it's very easy, use your fingernail from the top of it, there are 4 clips holding it on top, gently pull towards you to loosen all 4, after top is loose to remove 3 clips on left and 2 on right by gently pulling up.

2 screws hold the lens in place, one on left, one on right, on my car its a 3/32 hex bolt.

You should be able to do this easily in less then 10 minutes.

When you re-install the grey molding, start from the bottom clips on each side and work your way up, very easy to do.

[SS-E-YA]

Thanks everyone!

[Reichler]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

The recommendation was based on what the OP stated in the original post that he had. Which was Adams Glass Cleaner. He never stated he had any type of machine or polishes.

I was trying to help the OP based on what he stated he had to work with.

He posted in another thread that he had:

Originally Posted by SS-E-YA

Thank you! I clayed first. Then used severe swirl remover (green), swirl and haze remover (orange), and then the paint finishing polish (white) also called fine machine polish. Followed by machine super wax.

I used the Flex.

Not my fault you can't do some research. It's only from a thread a few down from this one in the same forum and is what I referenced in my previous posts.

You also clearly only reads what you want to read. I said in my post what "I" have come across thru the years and the processes I've taken to remove them, not what he had and should necessarily need to perform. They were progressions from least aggressive to most aggressive that someone can take to pull various marks our of plastic lenses.

I still stand by my request to go polish a section of your car with toothpaste and to report back the results. I heard of that "old school" trick long ago, and have proven it to not work at all years ago when someone joked about it while detailing a car; it added micro-marring.

Let's just agree to disagree and move on, because continuing to bicker over our experience or suggestions clearly isn't getting anywhere.

Cheers.

OP; hope you can get it fixed. Let us know what ends up working for you.

[SS-E-YA]

[SS-E-YA]

Here they are at night. Kind of annoying, huh!?

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by Reichler

He posted in another thread that he had:



Not my fault you can't do some research. It's only from a thread a few down from this one in the same forum and is what I referenced in my previous posts.

You also clearly only reads what you want to read. I said in my post what "I" have come across thru the years and the processes I've taken to remove them, not what he had and should necessarily need to perform. They were progressions from least aggressive to most aggressive that someone can take to pull various marks our of plastic lenses.

I still stand by my request to go polish a section of your car with toothpaste and to report back the results. I heard of that "old school" trick long ago, and have proven it to not work at all years ago when someone joked about it while detailing a car; it added micro-marring.

Let's just agree to disagree and move on, because continuing to bicker over our experience or suggestions clearly isn't getting anywhere.

Cheers.

OP; hope you can get it fixed. Let us know what ends up working for you.

And I still stand behind the 100% absolute fact that the abrasives in gel toothpaste are less aggressive then what's in a DAT finishing polish.

I also don't research other threads when responding to a question, other posts have nothing to do with the question in this post.

If anyone needs to do research on posts it's you, I believe you stated that everything I have ever posted is wrong. I'm sure you have read all 800 plus of them.

I have no need to polish my car with toothpaste. I compounded it about 18 months ago, and now I only need to use finishing polish (CarPro Reflect) on a Scholl Concepts Honey pad with my Rupes 21 to maintain the finish and gloss. I guess when you did all your research on me, you didn't read this thread I started.

Again I had no way of knowing what the OP has besides Adams Glass Cleaner. I also went least aggressive, which is initially using white vinegar, being mildly acidic. This didn't work, which proved the fact that the defects are not superficial.

I suggested the toothpaste as an alternative to polish, as he never stated that he did have any type of polish, before he jumped with the adams army and bought revive, which after using the finishing polish with no results, proves that buying the revive for this process would have been a waste of money.

I don't make posts unless I have tried a process with success using it. And then I always try to be as detailed as possible so the person requesting help can avoid any idiosyncrasies that may occur using the process.

I don't make up s!&T as you suggest, and I do not appreciate you implying that I do.

I have helped many on this forum and many have helped me as well, I'm not here to argue, but to help someone if I can (based upon what they say they have to work with), and to get help if I need it.

I will not let you or anyone else deter me from continuing to do both.

To the OP I would again suggest to remove the lens as Tecca stated, it's very easy to do. If nothing else you will be able to determine after it's removed if the defects are etching or interior, then proceed accordingly.

In case you didn't see them, I posted some pics of my 2012 and how to remove it.

[SS-E-YA]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

And I still stand behind the 100% absolute fact that the abrasives in gel toothpaste are less aggressive then what's in a DAT finishing polish.

I also don't research other threads when responding to a question, other posts have nothing to do with the question in this post.

If anyone needs to do research on posts it's you, I believe you stated that everything I have ever posted is wrong. I'm sure you have read all 800 plus of them.

I have no need to polish my car with toothpaste. I compounded it about 18 months ago, and now I only need to use finishing polish (CarPro Reflect) on a Scholl Concepts Honey pad with my Rupes 21 to maintain the finish and gloss. I guess when you did all your research on me, you didn't read this thread I started.

Again I had no way of knowing what the OP has besides Adams Glass Cleaner. I also went least aggressive, which is initially using white vinegar, being mildly acidic. This didn't work, which proved the fact that the defects are not superficial.

I suggested the toothpaste as an alternative to polish, as he never stated that he did have any type of polish, before he jumped with the adams army and bought revive, which after using the finishing polish with no results, proves that buying the revive for this process would have been a waste of money.

I don't make posts unless I have tried a process with success using it. And then I always try to be as detailed as possible so the person requesting help can avoid any idiosyncrasies that may occur using the process.

I don't make up s!&T as you suggest, and I do not appreciate you implying that I do.

I have helped many on this forum and many have helped me as well, I'm not here to argue, but to help someone if I can (based upon what they say they have to work with), and to get help if I need it.

I will not let you or anyone else deter me from continuing to do both.

To the OP I would again suggest to remove the lens as Tecca stated, it's very easy to do. If nothing else you will be able to determine after it's removed if the defects are etching or interior, then proceed accordingly.

In case you didn't see them, I posted some pics of my 2012 and how to remove it.

I saw that, thanks for posting.