[BMWM.D.]

So after facing a dilemma with my exhaust settings, I decided to give the Mild 2 Wild exhaust control module a shot. These things were really popular on the C6 and other older cars with vacuum controlled exhaust. So far I’m quite happy with the results.

My problem was that I wanted the fuse out (flaps always open), but my next door neighbor didn’t seem to enjoy it. So I started using “stealth” mode on startup, then I’d switch back to “track” after I got down the road. Not only was this a pain going through the menus to switch it every time, but (as most know) the flaps still close in track mode at cruise. I like to hear my exhaust.

This exhaust controller has done what I was after. It defaults to “fuse pulled” on startup. If I’m at home in the garage and want it to start in “stealth”, I just turn the ignition on and press a button on my Homelink. Press another button on the Homelink and I’m back to “fuse pulled” on the fly. Much quicker and easier than fumbling through the menu, plus I get all the exhaust sound the car makes. Obviously, I can also put it in Tour, Sport, or Track and let the flaps do their thing.

About the only negative is that the module isn’t smart enough to remember its last position after switching off the engine. I could have wired it to constant power, but I didn’t want to deal with any potential amperage draws. I didn’t take any pictures of the install, as I haven’t finalized everything. But it works and does exactly what I was hoping.

The install on a ZL1 is a little trickier due to less room in the fuse box, but it can be done. Just takes a little creativity.

[SuperSound]

Odd yours doesn't remember. Mine works perfectly in my SS. Did you do something different in wiring it?

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

Odd yours doesn't remember. Mine works perfectly in my SS. Did you do something different in wiring it?

It’s wired to switched power, so it resets every time. I don’t think there’s a way for it to “remember” other than connecting it to constant power.

I did have to improvise on the install due to the intercooler pump relay that’s in the way of the fuse tap on the ZL1. But it’s essentially the same. I just get power from a different fuse.

[SuperSound]

Check out my thread from awhile back. I had an issue with a relay being in the way as well. Might be the same one. But after talking with the M2W guys, they had me run the power wire to another fuse. I tapped the seat heaters which is definitely not constant power from my understanding (losing power a few mins after shutdown). But I don't have any trouble with it defaulting to "fuse pulled". Or are you after it remembering the position on (i.e. valves active)?


http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481236

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

Check out my thread from awhile back. I had an issue with a relay being in the way as well. Might be the same one. But after talking with the M2W guys, they had me run the power wire to another fuse. I tapped the seat heaters which is definitely not constant power from my understanding (losing power a few mins after shutdown). But I don't have any trouble with it defaulting to "fuse pulled". Or are you after it remembering the position on (i.e. valves active)?


http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481236

Yeah, I’d like it better if it stayed where I had it on the previous drive. It’s working like the instructions state. The “zero drain” install will always start in the “open” setting. I’d prefer this over it always starting in stealth mode, but a true memory would be nice.

The reason yours seems to have a memory is that the heated seat fuse has constant power. I was actually looking at using that one, but didn’t want to have to worry about an amperage draw. When I had it connected that way, it would work as you describe, but it could also be operated with the car off. I could hear something clicking near the rear of the car when operating the remote, but it wasn’t the exhaust flap motors. Maybe a relay or something? I’ve never seen the schematic for this system. Either way, I guess I need to break out my amp clamp and do some testing to see what it pulls. If it’s minimal, I may just connect it that way.

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

Yeah, I’d like it better if it stayed where I had it on the previous drive. It’s working like the instructions state. The “zero drain” install will always start in the “open” setting. I’d prefer this over it always starting in stealth mode, but a true memory would be nice.

The reason yours seems to have a memory is that the heated seat fuse has constant power. I was actually looking at using that one, but didn’t want to have to worry about an amperage draw. When I had it connected that way, it would work as you describe, but it could also be operated with the car off. I could hear something clicking near the rear of the car when operating the remote, but it wasn’t the exhaust flap motors. Maybe a relay or something? I’ve never seen the schematic for this system. Either way, I guess I need to break out my amp clamp and do some testing to see what it pulls. If it’s minimal, I may just connect it that way.

I'm not sure on the seat heater fuse having power all the time. I was pretty sure it lost power after a few mins but you must be right if it needs power for the memory. I can tell you I have had 0 problems with drain. My car frequently sits for 5 days at a time. So if it is pulling power, it's probably miniscule. Also haven't had any trouble with running it with the seat heaters on either. I think the real draw comes when you cycle the fuse on/off, so that might be why. 98% of the time I've got NPP disabled. Only enable it when I need to do a quiet start basically.

I'll have to check mine about operating it when off. I was pretty sure I couldn't actually work the valves without the car being in Service Mode or running. Will have to test that and let you know.

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

I'm not sure on the seat heater fuse having power all the time. I was pretty sure it lost power after a few mins but you must be right if it needs power for the memory. I can tell you I have had 0 problems with drain. My car frequently sits for 5 days at a time. So if it is pulling power, it's probably miniscule. Also haven't had any trouble with running it with the seat heaters on either. I think the real draw comes when you cycle the fuse on/off, so that might be why. 98% of the time I've got NPP disabled. Only enable it when I need to do a quiet start basically.

I'll have to check mine about operating it when off. I was pretty sure I couldn't actually work the valves without the car being in Service Mode or running. Will have to test that and let you know.

I checked my seat heater fuse, and it still had power after an hour with everything off. So I’m 99.9% sure it always has power.

That said. It’s good to hear that having that way doesn’t cause issues for you. When I had mine connected to that fuse, I could hear something activating when I was playing with the remote with the car off. It definitely wasn’t moving the flaps, but was energizing something. I’ll probably mess with mine some more.

[sengli]

These cars on start up, do bark quite a bit. I found my M2W (from my C6 too) in my Gen5 was pretty worthless. Couldnt hardly tell the difference. This Gen6 car seems fine as is.

[Ricco]

Which version are you guys running? I only saw options for Vette and Gen 5 Camaro on their site.

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by Ricco

Which version are you guys running? I only saw options for Vette and Gen 5 Camaro on their site.

The C7 version also fits the gen 6 Camaro. So that’s what you need.