Header Bolts Anti-seize - Page 2

Mick0311 · 12-02-2019, 01:44 PM

Torque specs have a dry, wet and PTFE scales. If you use anti-seize, use the wet scale. Simple enough.

Lots of people saying they put these together dry yet not a lot of talk (now there will be) of taking them apart.

Idyll · 12-10-2019, 10:25 AM

Of course you can put bolts in dry and w/o anti-seize, but that's not the point of anti-seize. The point of anti-seize is in the event you ever need to remove the bolts.

Introducing numerous high heat cycles to two different metals torqued together is a recipe for seizing, galling, cold welding, and heat freezing. This can become a huge nightmare if you ever need to disassemble. However, if you're 100% sure that you'll never need to undo what you torqued, then go dry if you want.

Using anti-seize is working smart, and to adjust for the extra lubricity simply reduce the torque specs by 20-25%.

MP3BOOSTED · 12-10-2019, 10:32 AM

I haven't used anything and have removed my headers quite a few times.

Idyll · 12-10-2019, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MP3BOOSTED

I haven't used anything and have removed my headers quite a few times.

Over what period of time?

MP3BOOSTED · 12-10-2019, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Idyll

Over what period of time?

My car has 9k miles on it, started modding it at around 6-7 miles back in early 2018, throughout that year til now i've removed my headers about 2-3 times, for cam install, heads install and now removing the motor from my car to install forged internals and go boosted.

ssmofo · 12-10-2019, 11:44 AM

You don't need anti seize, I had headers on my fourth gen forever, they came right off, steal bolt, aluminum head, normally will not stick to one another.

MP3BOOSTED · 12-10-2019, 11:48 AM

I don't even torque mine, get it tight and call it a day

OVRKLL · 12-10-2019, 08:16 PM

Thank you for the advice/suggestions.
I decided to go in dry and use the bolt locks that came with the Kooks...looks like it will do the trick should the bolts decide to back out.

Idyll · 12-10-2019, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OVRKLL

Thank you for the advice/suggestions.
I decided to go in dry and use the bolt locks that came with the Kooks...looks like it will do the trick should the bolts decide to back out.

Google "broken header bolt".

GTO_Gregory · 12-17-2019, 02:48 PM

I use anti-seize when possible. It prevents the headache of frozen nuts and bolts. Just be careful around sensor surfaces, but that's not the case here.

Idyll · 03-12-2020, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s346k

been putting headers on various vehicles going on 20 years now. never used antiseize.

Putting headers on w/o anti-seize is always easy.

s346k · 03-12-2020, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Idyll

Putting headers on w/o anti-seize is always easy.

you must have a story, given the contention. do tell.

perhaps i should have included that i removed almost every set of headers i installed (sans anti seize) and haven’t had any issues. had the same set off of an lsjuan motor several times over the last 5 years. a header bolt is about the only one i haven’t broken off in some part of the engine.

had the manifold bolts out of my 275k mile xj countless times with 0 issues, over the last 8 years.

anti seize is good stuff but simply unnecessary for header bolts.

oldman · 03-12-2020, 02:24 PM

I used them dry with the locks pictures, none seemed to have rattled out, so after the 4th install, I don't bother with the locks... I know I should,,, but I never found one loose. IMO most people that put them on with the hand-torque wrench go too tight. I only use my hand as the torque wrench, has not failed in many decades...

12-10-2019, 10:25 AM	#16
Idyll lost between two shores Drives: 2020 SS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: North Texas Posts: 138	Of course you can put bolts in dry and w/o anti-seize, but that's not the point of anti-seize. The point of anti-seize is in the event you ever need to remove the bolts. Introducing numerous high heat cycles to two different metals torqued together is a recipe for seizing, galling, cold welding, and heat freezing. This can become a huge nightmare if you ever need to disassemble. However, if you're 100% sure that you'll never need to undo what you torqued, then go dry if you want. Using anti-seize is working smart, and to adjust for the extra lubricity simply reduce the torque specs by 20-25%. __________________ *2020 SS 1LE \| Almost* Mod Free**

12-10-2019, 10:32 AM	#17
MP3BOOSTED Drives: 2017 Camaro SS 1LE (F1A-94 FBO H/C) Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: San Antonio Texas Posts: 843	I haven't used anything and have removed my headers quite a few times. __________________ Performance Mods: F1A-94, DSX Flex Fuel Kit, MSD Spark Plug Wires, KOOK 2" off road headers, MBRP Race catback exhaust, Pray Performance Custom Boost Cam, Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade Kit, 7.850" Hardened Chromemoly Length Pushrods and Johnson Racing 2110R Lifters, TSP CNC'd Heads, Ported MSD intake manifold, 103mm Katech Throttle body, Forged Pistons/Rods, RPM Meth kit, DSX Aux Fuel system, AEM Failsafe and banks gauge, LT4 HPFP, LT4 injectors, BMR motor mounts, Hurst Short Throw, Manley SS exhaust valves Videos of my car? Check here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNi...Qy1OL4NVGlPogw

12-10-2019, 11:48 AM	#21
MP3BOOSTED Drives: 2017 Camaro SS 1LE (F1A-94 FBO H/C) Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: San Antonio Texas Posts: 843	I don't even torque mine, get it tight and call it a day __________________ Performance Mods: F1A-94, DSX Flex Fuel Kit, MSD Spark Plug Wires, KOOK 2" off road headers, MBRP Race catback exhaust, Pray Performance Custom Boost Cam, Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade Kit, 7.850" Hardened Chromemoly Length Pushrods and Johnson Racing 2110R Lifters, TSP CNC'd Heads, Ported MSD intake manifold, 103mm Katech Throttle body, Forged Pistons/Rods, RPM Meth kit, DSX Aux Fuel system, AEM Failsafe and banks gauge, LT4 HPFP, LT4 injectors, BMR motor mounts, Hurst Short Throw, Manley SS exhaust valves Videos of my car? Check here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNi...Qy1OL4NVGlPogw

12-10-2019, 08:16 PM	#22
OVRKLL Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE...makes me go YeeeHaw! Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 577	Thank you for the advice/suggestions. I decided to go in dry and use the bolt locks that came with the Kooks...looks like it will do the trick should the bolts decide to back out. __________________ The Thrill isn't around the corner, the Thrill is the corner! So don't hesitate, just brake late!

12-17-2019, 02:48 PM	#24
GTO_Gregory Drives: 2016 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Texas & Uncle Sam's Choice Posts: 123	I use anti-seize when possible. It prevents the headache of frozen nuts and bolts. Just be careful around sensor surfaces, but that's not the case here. __________________ 2024 Chevrolet 3500HD Z71, LTZ, 4x4, 6.6 ltr. L5P long-bed. 2016 Camaro 2SS Six-speed, Hotchkis sway bars, Eibach .750" drop springs, Mamo throttle body, E85, BMR stuff. 2006 Quicksilver 6-speed GTO ERL LS3-430, All-Pro 285cc heads, 262/273 .758/.742 116+3 cam, Sheet-metal Intake, 70lb Siemens injectors, SLP, GMM Ripshifter, QA1 Coil-overs front and rear, nylon suspension bushings, Hotchkis, RPM Trans, SPEC twin clutch, SpinTech, Kooks 1 7/8 -2.0", BMR drive train, Kaaz 3.91, Lingenfelter CAI, Baer brakes, mini-tubs, E85.

12-02-2019, 01:44 PM	#15
Mick0311 Drives: 2018 Camaro 2SS Redline Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: WA Posts: 94	Torque specs have a dry, wet and PTFE scales. If you use anti-seize, use the wet scale. Simple enough. Lots of people saying they put these together dry yet not a lot of talk (now there will be) of taking them apart.

12-10-2019, 11:44 AM	#20
ssmofo Drives: Chevy Camaro Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Dallas Posts: 420	You don't need anti seize, I had headers on my fourth gen forever, they came right off, steal bolt, aluminum head, normally will not stick to one another.

03-12-2020, 02:24 PM	#27
oldman Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Hilo, HI Posts: 4,316	I used them dry with the locks pictures, none seemed to have rattled out, so after the 4th install, I don't bother with the locks... I know I should,,, but I never found one loose. IMO most people that put them on with the hand-torque wrench go too tight. I only use my hand as the torque wrench, has not failed in many decades... __________________ Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

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