[Want1]

Does anyone have an Interchiller by Forced Induction installed, preferably in the Phoenix, AZ area? And can tell me that it works properly?

I keep hearing it does not work at all in the Phoenix heat...

[KingLT1]

Look up Complete Street on YouTube.

[Want1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Look up Complete Street on YouTube.

Hi KingLT1,
I have info on the product and have actually ordered one from them, However; I've heard from shops here in Phoenix that the Interchillers do not do well here, apparently due to the high heat here...So I'm really trying to find someone who's got one in their car here in Phoenix in hopes to get some feed back from them.

But thank you, though!

[Dysan911]

Man I want a PD blower just so I can have one of them inter-chillers.

[ShizzySupra]

Really dont understand the hype of those things. Not only are they very expensive but most people with them eventually do all the same cooling mods anyways.... (bigger tank, better pump, etc). Usually in the videos all that I see are heat guns on coolant lines. The ACTUAL IAT’s are higher than you think and thats per the owners. Just not a big believer.

The bottom line is that PD blowers are still going to get hot especially in CRAZY ambients. I recently had to race in 92 degree ambients and my IAT’s got up to 121 at the end of a 1-6 pull which I was completely fine with.

[staples87]

They're more of an "in-between" run helper. When you're at wide open throttle the compressor is going to be shutting off so it won't be keeping temps down. It's meant for short burst runs (drag or Mexico runs). Do your run, turn the AC on and it drops the temps. It's worthless for road courses, time attacks, or long events. Your best better is a better exchanger and expansion tank.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by staples87

They're more of an "in-between" run helper. When you're at wide open throttle the compressor is going to be shutting off so it won't be keeping temps down. It's meant for short burst runs (drag or Mexico runs). Do your run, turn the AC on and it drops the temps. It's worthless for road courses, time attacks, or long events. Your best better is a better exchanger and expansion tank.

Where did you get that info from? This is the factory AC settings from my SS tune.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by staples87

They're more of an "in-between" run helper. When you're at wide open throttle the compressor is going to be shutting off so it won't be keeping temps down. It's meant for short burst runs (drag or Mexico runs). Do your run, turn the AC on and it drops the temps. It's worthless for road courses, time attacks, or long events. Your best better is a better exchanger and expansion tank.

on my type R, I forgot to clutch off the a/c on one of my tunes, right about 9000 RPM the ac compressor clutch destroyed itself. Lesson learned... There is only so much cooling air flowing thru the front, any heat added to the air stream via the a/c condensor and the work in HP needed to turn the a/c compressor is just more heat into the air stream. IMO this is as posed an in-between run helper not a road, street and / or autoX mod where heat and is a real issue already i.e. You are NOT going to see one running around the ring

[KingLT1]

The Gen 5 AC system is not like the older GM stuff where it's designed to shut off at high rpm. I just posted a screen shot showing that the AC will remain active all the way up to 7083rpm if it's left on.

I agree I wouldn't do this mod for a road course car, but it has been proven on a ZL1, with a LT4 charger, making 800whp, to sustain that power after multiple pulls...where as without it the power dropped off almost 40whp after the second pull.

That being said we are talking about the LT4 supercharger. As I said in another thread, for what this mod costs, you might be better served moving up to a bigger more efficient Supercharger and just using better heat exchangers and what not for big power builds. At the end of the day it's all about goals.

I don't think this is the end all be all mod, but I wouldn't say it's worthless either. I think it has it's place depending on the application and goals of the car.

[ramairroughneck]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

Really dont understand the hype of those things. Not only are they very expensive but most people with them eventually do all the same cooling mods anyways.... (bigger tank, better pump, etc). Usually in the videos all that I see are heat guns on coolant lines. The ACTUAL IAT’s are higher than you think and thats per the owners. Just not a big believer.

The bottom line is that PD blowers are still going to get hot especially in CRAZY ambients. I recently had to race in 92 degree ambients and my IAT’s got up to 121 at the end of a 1-6 pull which I was completely fine with.

The base kit featured in the Complete Street videos is $1650 and seams to be quite effective without any additional modes. Just for a pricing comparison, could you tell us how much money you have in your car with your stage two intercoolers, Stewart Emp pump, bigger water lines, CPR Coolant tank for additional volume, and your methanol system plus the additional direct port jets spraying on the bricks? I’m not fully sold on the chiller if there are other ways that are better. Can all of your mods be done cheaper?

[ramairroughneck]

I wish there were more people out there running these kits that could give some insight. It would be nice to see someone from the Deep South, not a dealer, that’s willing to provide an honest review. At this point I can’t decide if chillers are worthy or overhyped.

[staples87]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The Gen 5 AC system is not like the older GM stuff where it's designed to shut off at high rpm. I just posted a screen shot showing that the AC will remain active all the way up to 7083rpm if it's left on.

I agree I wouldn't do this mod for a road course car, but it has been proven on a ZL1, with a LT4 charger, making 800whp, to sustain that power after multiple pulls...where as without it the power dropped off almost 40whp after the second pull.

That being said we are talking about the LT4 supercharger. As I said in another thread, for what this mod costs, you might be better served moving up to a bigger more efficient Supercharger and just using better heat exchangers and what not for big power builds. At the end of the day it's all about goals.

I don't think this is the end all be all mod, but I wouldn't say it's worthless either. I think it has it's place depending on the application and goals of the car.

My apologies, I stand corrected then. I was under the assumption the AC did in fact shut off like the older models.

I don't think it's worthless at all. I just think it's one of those mods that is not for everyone because of the price, like you mentioned.

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

The bottom line is that PD blowers are still going to get hot especially in CRAZY ambients. I recently had to race in 92 degree ambients and my IAT’s got up to 121 at the end of a 1-6 pull which I was completely fine with.

Is that considered high? My p1 will hit 131 peak at redline with an ambient temp of 86.

[ShizzySupra]

To be fair I wouldnt waste a dime pushing an LT4 blower as all the work put in is better served swapping to a bigger blower...especially with 2650’s now available.

1) New bricks come standard in all modern 2300’s. So 0 cost.
2) I do not use a Stewart Pump.
3) Water lines were $30 bucks...
4) Bigger Tank was $400 iirc (you would be doing this for any blower.)
5) Meth Kit set-up can be ordered for $850. Can’t comment on labor to drill lid as that will vary but its next to nothing. (99.9% of cars are running a meth setup)
6) My HX is the standard old school baby that came with the 2300.

So essentially all of my mods are things that 90% of PD setups will do anyways.

Originally Posted by ramairroughneck

The base kit featured in the Complete Street videos is $1650 and seams to be quite effective without any additional modes. Just for a pricing comparison, could you tell us how much money you have in your car with your stage two intercoolers, Stewart Emp pump, bigger water lines, CPR Coolant tank for additional volume, and your methanol system plus the additional direct port jets spraying on the bricks? I’m not fully sold on the chiller if there are other ways that are better. Can all of your mods be done cheaper?