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Old 05-28-2019, 09:46 AM   #57
CamaroVille
 
Drives: 2018 Camaro 2SS M6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
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Thanks for keeping us up to date on your project. While disappointed, I understand your reasoning. If you decide to open the project back up, count me in as someone that is very interested. My interest is mainly in the intake plug. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them!
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Old 05-28-2019, 11:47 AM   #58
51FIFFT
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 FIFTY @51fifft
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Not to take away from what you did but CCNC is making them also for anyone looking
to get one. I think they are $24.95

https://ccnorcal.com/
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Old 05-28-2019, 12:46 PM   #59
CamaroVille
 
Drives: 2018 Camaro 2SS M6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51FIFFT View Post
Not to take away from what you did but CCNC is making them also for anyone looking
to get one. I think they are $24.95

https://ccnorcal.com/

I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing!! Much appreciated!
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Old 05-28-2019, 07:45 PM   #60
bignaz
 
Drives: 2019 ZL1 1LE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51FIFFT View Post
Not to take away from what you did but CCNC is making them also for anyone looking
to get one. I think they are $24.95

https://ccnorcal.com/


I would not trust those at all.


Fdm is a horrible idea for an intake part. A draft on the room can cause issues with later adhesion and you can end up with crap in your engine. I mean I could use an fdm printer and make them for less them $15 each shipped. Problem is that fdm you are asking for issues.



Issues are fdm parts are way to week for anything I would trust in an intake system. Petg glass transition temp is 80c and is 105c pla is 65c. And you really don't want that plug to get soft.


I don't want anyone to have a plug. One apart and get sucked up and destroy there motor because some site decided to buy a $100 3d printer and make parts. Firewall plug is fine but anything in the air intake system you need to test and know what you are using. That's why I went through a process of testing the resins to make sure they can withstand the heat but also the cold and rapid thermal cycles.


Anyone selling you an intake plug ask then what temperature the meteral has been tested to and what process they used. Also ask about thermal cycles. Because I can go get some cheap petg fillament. Hook up an fdm printer and cheap fillament, humidity, drafts that intake plug will be inside your engine.


But if you guys are going to roll the dice here ya go.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3267691


Send those files to shapeways and have them do e on a high-end printer in nylon or reinforced nylon. Abs will be about the same but it will be done on a $20,000 printer not a $200 printer. Or if you just don't care local collage you can get it printed cheap or find a guy online by you with a printer and have it done for $10.




Just keep in mind abs and pla require some control to keep the layers from splitting after a while. And they get soft at some pretty low temps. Combine those and it's a really bad combo and something I would never put in my car let alone sell.


Personally if I needed one and didn't have my SLA printer with the right resin and didn't wanna dump $150 for a bottle of it. I would just have shapeways do it on there multijet in PA12.





Not trying to steal a sale. I'm an engineer and I'm giving you some information that you might not know and an option to have it done right. Don't risk your car on a cheap part. We don't need to go back to the days of eBay "chips" and resistors that go into your mass airflow sensor plug to "increase power" Critical systems require some R&D and there's the right meteral for the job. If you need one use that file off thingiverse send it to shapeways and have them make it out of the right meteral. I won't upload my files because I want control over the meteral they are made out of so it doesn't crack or come apart and cause engine damage or falure. It just takes one time and some unlucky person is now $8,000 in the hole because gm will find abs plastic in the engine.


I really don't wanna see anyone draw the short straw and eat $8,000. This is one of the times I wish I could offer a quality alternative that has absolutely zero risk of falure even if you put a clam on it and over tighten it but I have other projects that require attention and I just ran out of time.
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Old 05-29-2019, 07:02 AM   #61
51FIFFT
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 FIFTY @51fifft
Join Date: May 2017
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Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by bignaz View Post
I would not trust those at all.


Fdm is a horrible idea for an intake part. A draft on the room can cause issues with later adhesion and you can end up with crap in your engine. I mean I could use an fdm printer and make them for less them $15 each shipped. Problem is that fdm you are asking for issues.



Issues are fdm parts are way to week for anything I would trust in an intake system. Petg glass transition temp is 80c and is 105c pla is 65c. And you really don't want that plug to get soft.


I don't want anyone to have a plug. One apart and get sucked up and destroy there motor because some site decided to buy a $100 3d printer and make parts. Firewall plug is fine but anything in the air intake system you need to test and know what you are using. That's why I went through a process of testing the resins to make sure they can withstand the heat but also the cold and rapid thermal cycles.


Anyone selling you an intake plug ask then what temperature the meteral has been tested to and what process they used. Also ask about thermal cycles. Because I can go get some cheap petg fillament. Hook up an fdm printer and cheap fillament, humidity, drafts that intake plug will be inside your engine.


But if you guys are going to roll the dice here ya go.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3267691


Send those files to shapeways and have them do e on a high-end printer in nylon or reinforced nylon. Abs will be about the same but it will be done on a $20,000 printer not a $200 printer. Or if you just don't care local collage you can get it printed cheap or find a guy online by you with a printer and have it done for $10.




Just keep in mind abs and pla require some control to keep the layers from splitting after a while. And they get soft at some pretty low temps. Combine those and it's a really bad combo and something I would never put in my car let alone sell.


Personally if I needed one and didn't have my SLA printer with the right resin and didn't wanna dump $150 for a bottle of it. I would just have shapeways do it on there multijet in PA12.





Not trying to steal a sale. I'm an engineer and I'm giving you some information that you might not know and an option to have it done right. Don't risk your car on a cheap part. We don't need to go back to the days of eBay "chips" and resistors that go into your mass airflow sensor plug to "increase power" Critical systems require some R&D and there's the right meteral for the job. If you need one use that file off thingiverse send it to shapeways and have them make it out of the right meteral. I won't upload my files because I want control over the meteral they are made out of so it doesn't crack or come apart and cause engine damage or falure. It just takes one time and some unlucky person is now $8,000 in the hole because gm will find abs plastic in the engine.


I really don't wanna see anyone draw the short straw and eat $8,000. This is one of the times I wish I could offer a quality alternative that has absolutely zero risk of falure even if you put a clam on it and over tighten it but I have other projects that require attention and I just ran out of time.

wow good to know, I don't know the specs or what they are made out of. I don't have the plug myself but Roy is a buddy of mine and started making them. I made my own with a tapered rubber plug, then used the stock firewall plate to run my wires trough. It' nothing fancy but works and all for under $3.


Thanks for the information
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Old 05-29-2019, 10:47 AM   #62
bignaz
 
Drives: 2019 ZL1 1LE
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Here is the quality from those types of printers. This is a professional grade printer. Cost a fee thousand I won't say what brand but this is what you can expect from FDM. The layers never fully bond 100% like with a SLA. You just get a light surface bond.

I'll try and get a video under one of the microscopes of it separating. It looks just like when you have the ribbon wires and you split a wire off from the rest. Slightly more force is required but I have split some wire that was about the same force as this.



Now you get a draft or a temperature drift and have one weak layer then combine that with thermal cycles that weak point can fail and it could be anywhere. So might end up with a small little string that you won't ever know. Or you might end up with 1/2 the plug inside your engine.
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